AT33PTG Fixing Bolts

[Ammonite Audio]

I have finally lost patience with the faff of handling the AT33PTG with its open bolt holes, in comparison with my other (European) cartridges which all have proper threaded holes, accepting bolts from above. So, with heart in mouth, I have glued the AT33PTG to an Isokinetik cartridge stabiliser, which is a small 3g plate of alloy, with threaded holes pre-cut, albeit with DL-103 cartridges in mind.

http://i55.tinypic.com/28sq0b6.jpg

So far, so good. The extra mass does not seem to have disturbed the AT33PTG and it still has its nice open, vibrant sound. Importantly, it is now a dream to install and adjust.

Why do the Japanese insist on such a cack-handed cartridge mounting method?

[DSJR]

All you need to do is have the bolts pushed up from underneath, the safety washers as pictured and a suitable socket spanner to finally tighten - doddle...

In fact I had more trouble with Linn arms, where one manipulates the Allen keys from underneath, holding the nuts with a pair of fine-nosed pliers and with the bearing cradle in one's lap. I notably broke a brand new Troika when the Allen key slipped out and my thumb bent the cantilever.

[Ammonite Audio]

All you need to do is have the bolts pushed up from underneath, the safety washers as pictured and a suitable socket spanner to finally tighten - doddle...

In fact I had more trouble with Linn arms, where one manipulates the Allen keys from underneath, holding the nuts with a pair of fine-nosed pliers and with the bearing cradle in one's lap. I notably broke a brand new Troika when the Allen key slipped out and my thumb bent the cantilever.

I'm sorry if I appear a bit thick, but you've lost me here and I can't picture clearly what you're describing (which sounds rather like what I had to do before). The point is that now the bolts can only be inserted from above, the cartridge being bonded to the alloy plate. So, now it's easy to adjust and tighten without getting an allen key anywhere near the underside of the cartridge (with its powerful magnets too).

[hifi_dave]

Good fix for a naff body design.

As for bolts on a Linn arm or Rega for that matter. I find these very easy as the nut is held in place by the shaped slot on the top of the headshell. You hold the nut and prevent it spinning with a finger tip and screw the bolt until the nut runs far enough down to be gripped by the slot. You then nip it tight with gay abandon...:rolleyes:

[DSJR]

Dave, when you tighten as tight as I was taught to, the nut spins in the headshell slot, knurdling the latter good and proper. Hence the use of long-nosed pliers.........

Of course today, I don't have the strength...........

[hifi_dave]

Dave, when you tighten as tight as I was taught to, the nut spins in the headshell slot, knurdling the latter good and proper. Hence the use of long-nosed pliers.........

Of course today, I don't have the strength...........

Holy crap...:eek:

Really ?

I always do the nuts up tight but not enough torque to spin the nut in the slot. That takes some doing....:donk:

[DSJR]

We live and learn - don't we old chap??????????

How tight should a Linn cartridge be tightened?

Answer from Martin Dalgliesh - "Get an old trade-in Asak, tighten it until it breaks and then you'll know how tight it should be..."

These days, I think I have a little more common sense, especially with plastic bodied cartridges.

[hifi_dave]

All things in moderation.

Enough is enough..:trust:

[DSJR]

I had enough years ago and now I'm paying the price :D