Thorens TD160 Base

[Bazil]

I want to replace the hardboard base, anybody know whether MDF or ply is best and what thickness. Also new feet will be fitted, rubber/ wood/ spikes :scratch:

[Rare Bird]

I used to build thick Thorens surrounds, no base the feet (3) were on the surround

[Bazil]

I used to build thick Thorens surrounds, no base the feet (3) were on the surround
Thought about that but I know I'd cock-up the mitres and the plynth is in quite good condition anyway.
What feet did you use ?

[Rare Bird]

Thought about that but I know I'd cock-up the mitres and the plynth is in quite good condition anyway.
What feet did you use ?

They were solid Oak plinths with Russ Andrews Oak cones

[Bazil]

They were solid Oak plinths with Russ Andrews Oak cones
That sounds nice :) I like oak

[Welder]

The 160S comes with a High Density Chipboard base so if you have to have a base then maybe that’s the way to go.

[The Grand Wazoo]

Got one with a ply base - maybe 18mm or so, & some adjustable cones a bit like these:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SET-4-LOUDSPEAKER-SPIKES-Solid-Brass-adjustable-/200567103781?pt=UK_ConsumerElectronics_EquipmentSt ands_SM&hash=item2eb2bb2125#ht_1082wt_905

[The Grand Wazoo]

If the suspension springs still have foam in them, then whip it out while you're messing about under there.

[Welder]

You will as I think Andre is suggesting get a better sound with no base at all; got to be worth a try before you spend any money.
In theory at least, you shouldn’t need any special feet on the deck provided you've got it mounted on say a wall shelf; that’s what the suspension is for ;)

I didn't think the basic 160 came with foam in the springs but if so, yes i agree take it out.

[The Grand Wazoo]

I didn't think the basic 160 came with foam in the springs but if so, yes i agree take it out.

It did, but many second hand ones will have already have theirs removed as doing so had well known benefits.

[Bazil]

I've just got this deck and I'm giving it the once over.
Foam will be removed from springs, thanks for the tip.
If I don't fit a base I would have to screw some feet into the four corner triangles and then they would stick out , depending on dia. of course.

[Dingdong]

I was going to go with a bit of ply with mine. Removing the original board and having nothing is definitely better. I thought the ply might improve the structural rigidity. I'm not sure if there would be much difference between mdf or ply.
I ended up using an old Planar 2 that was trimmed to fit. I got it with the SME3009 I use in my TD160. The bearing was not so good and it had been cut to fit the SME so I couldn't see it having any value. I'm currently using the three Rega feet, but might experiment with spikes at some point.

[synsei]

I discovered, completely by accident, that a 20mm thick granite chopping block sold by our local branch of The Range was a perfect fit in the base aperture at the bottom of my TD160 mkII, so I glued three adjustable gold plated feet to the base of the block and used doubled-sided tape on the corners to stop any vibration due to the TT resting on the block. It works a treat and has tightened up the sound a lot.

http://i1019.photobucket.com/albums/af316/Sgtgrash/Hifi%20Stuff/Thorensongranite.jpg