Adding pre-out to Teac A-H300 possible?

[biggzy]

Hi all, im slowly getting my bedroom system sorted (Teac Reference 300) and just wondering if it will be at all possible to add a Pre-out on my Teac amp, i have the service manual in PDF HERE (http://www.speedyshare.com/files/27525562/TEAC_AH-300_service_manual.pdf)

Any info/help would be great as im looking to do this over the next few weeks, i can add the pre-out sockets to the back easily but not sure where i would wire them from and if i need to add any capacitors etc to get it to work, and not sure how hard it would be, from what i have read i would need to take a connection from the pre-amp section after the volume control, thats all i know. The amp is from around 1999 and is stereo only.


Thanks,
Adam.

[biggzy]

If i can get any help with this, here is how the mod should look...


http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/3307/ah300rear.jpg (http://img199.imageshack.us/i/ah300rear.jpg/)

Adam. :)

[Reid Malenfant]

Hi Adam, give me a few minutes & i'll have a picture up of where to connect to :)

Ok, first up here is the best part of the amplifier PCB so you can see the connector in relation to the output transistors along the bottom ;)

3996

Next up you get it a bit closer :eyebrows:

3997

There should be two connections in the centre, both of these are grounds. Connect the ground to both phono sockets & make the connection to the outer ring of the phono sockets. The others are marked Left & Right for you they obviously connect to the phono socket centre pins :cool:

[biggzy]

Hi Adam, give me a few minutes & i'll have a picture up of where to connect to :)

Thanks Reid, your a star :)

[Reid Malenfant]

Done, edited in to my last post ;)

[biggzy]

Done, edited in to my last post ;)

Thanks mate, i will open her up tonight and have a look for the section i need to run the wires from, then buy the bits etc, do i need any resistors or anything and will it put any strain on the teac at all? will i be able to use the power amp i add and the A-H300's speaker outs to bi-amp some speakers or do i have to match the amp carefully? thanks very much, i will update this topic as i go along with this mod.

Also (sorry for all the Q) will this allow the tone controls etc to work with the power amp also or is it just a flat direct out?

Thanks,
Adam.

[Reid Malenfant]

Those connections will be made to the output of the pre amplifier before it gets fed to the power amp itself. Sensitivity of the pre outs will be the same as the the gain of the power amplifier, in other words if you use another power amplifier (as standard) it'd need to have the same gain as the Teac power amp.

You could fit a 47K ohm or 50K ohm dual potentiometer & connect it in between the connector & the phono sockets in which case you'd be able to balance the sensitivities assuming the external power amp is more sensitive ;)

If it wasn't then you'd be in the doo doo :eyebrows:

The pre amp should have no difficulty driving an extra 50K ohm per channel. If it did have it really must be a piece of junk :eek: I'd expect any pre amp to have an output impedance of 100 ohms or less, though there are a few oddities that have a 1K ohm output impedance :scratch:


Also (sorry for all the Q) will this allow the tone controls etc to work with the power amp also or is it just a flat direct out?
The tone controls will work for either the built in power amp & the pre outs at the same time ;)

[biggzy]

Those connections will be made to the output of the pre amplifier before it gets fed to the power amp itself. Sensitivity of the pre outs will be the same as the the gain of the power amplifier, in other words if you use another power amplifier (as standard) it'd need to have the same gain as the Teac power amp.

You could fit a 47K ohm or 50K ohm dual potentiometer & connect it in between the connector & the phono sockets in which case you'd be able to balance the sensitivities assuming the external power amp is more sensitive ;)

If it wasn't then you'd be in the doo doo :eyebrows:

The pre amp should have no difficulty driving an extra 50K ohm per channel. If it did have it really must be a piece of junk :eek: I'd expect any pre amp to have an output impedance of 100 ohms or less, though there are a few oddities that have a 1K ohm output impedance :scratch:


The tone controls will work for either the built in power amp & the pre outs at the same time ;)

Sounds good, but how would i find out the gain of my amp? i would rather leave it standard (no potentiometer) and hope it works lol, also what sort of wire would be bast to use for this mod?

Will probably use the pre-outs to drive a Teac A-L700P power amp but only use 2 channels (its a 3 channel amp).

Again, thanks loads i appreciate it alot.

Adam

[Reid Malenfant]

For wire i'd use two short lengths of screened audio cable, it doesn't need to be anything spectacular ;)

If you happened to buy another Teac unit with a built in pre amp, similar to what you have there it'd be dead easy to adjust the gain & not fuss with the variable resistors. All you'd need to do is connect to say the CD input on the new amp, switch to CD (obviously) & then adjust the volume on the new amp to balance the pair. At that point you leave the new amps volume control alone & simply use the one you have there already :eyebrows:

If you buy just a power amp then you'll have to find some way of balancing it with what you already have which will be impossible if it's less sensitive & need variable resistors as already mentioned if it's more sensitive :doh:

[biggzy]

For wire i'd use two short lengths of screened audio cable, it doesn't need to be anything spectacular ;)

If you happened to buy another Teac unit with a built in pre amp, similar to what you have there it'd be dead easy to adjust the gain & not fuss with the variable resistors. All you'd need to do is connect to say the CD input on the new amp, switch to CD (obviously) & then adjust the volume on the new amp to balance the pair. At that point you leave the new amps volume control alone & simply use the one you have there already :eyebrows:

If you buy just a power amp then you'll have to find some way of balancing it with what you already have which will be impossible if it's less sensitive & need variable resistors as already mentioned if it's more sensitive :doh:

Thanks Reid, it sounds like i need these resistors then, is it just a simple task of soldering these just before the audio cable gets to the pre-outs? or am i missing the plot somehow lol, any chance of a quick mock-up of what it would need to be like to work.

Thanks,
Adam.

[Reid Malenfant]

Yes, it needs to be connected in between the connector on the amplifier PCB & the pre outs :)

3998

The pic should help... The ground connections from the connector on the amp PCB need to connect to both RG & LG & then to the outer connectors on the pre outs. The centre conductors need to connect from the connector on the amp PCB marked L & R to RI & LI on the potentiometer. The connections marked RO & LO are the left & right outputs that need to connect to the centre pins of the pre outs...

Hope that explains things ;)

[biggzy]

Yes, it needs to be connected in between the connector on the amplifier PCB & the pre outs :)

3998

The pic should help... The ground connections from the connector on the amp PCB need to connect to both RG & LG & then to the outer connectors on the pre outs. The centre conductors need to connect from the connector on the amp PCB marked L & R to RI & LI on the potentiometer. The connections marked RO & LO are the left & right outputs that need to connect to the centre pins of the pre outs...

Hope that explains things ;)

Yes iv got it now mate thanks very much, one last question, would this need to stick out the back of my amp to adjust the gain?

Adam.

[Alex_UK]

Hi Adam - just wondering - why? Presume you've got plans to add a separate power amp(s)?

[Reid Malenfant]

would this need to stick out the back of my amp to adjust the gain?

Adam.
Only if you don't want to take the lid off to adjust it - yes :D

I'd suggest you either move the ground connector or place the potentiometer to the right of it ;)

[biggzy]

Only if you don't want to take the lid off to adjust it - yes :D

I'd suggest you either move the ground connector or place the potentiometer to the right of it ;)

Great minds, i will move the ground and put the pot there next to the pre-outs :)

Thanks loads for all the help you have given me, now to source some bits for it, ebay has the answer.... i hope..

Adam.

[biggzy]

Hi Adam - just wondering - why? Presume you've got plans to add a separate power amp(s)?

Hi Alex, yes i want to add a power amp, shame Teac didn't make one to match the Ref 300 series, i will get one and maybe make a new front panel so it matches the rest, the Teac power amp i mention on page one can be modded to sound quite good (so i have read), i think its a tripath amp, not sure how well it supposed to sound but im sure its worth a listen.

I am right into the hi-fi thing lol, i have even dressed the ends of my speaker cables etc with braiding and heat shrink + plugs, power lead is next to be changed i think to some Belden, and see what other mods i can do.

Adam.

[biggzy]

Yes, it needs to be connected in between the connector on the amplifier PCB & the pre outs :)

3998

The pic should help... The ground connections from the connector on the amp PCB need to connect to both RG & LG & then to the outer connectors on the pre outs. The centre conductors need to connect from the connector on the amp PCB marked L & R to RI & LI on the potentiometer. The connections marked RO & LO are the left & right outputs that need to connect to the centre pins of the pre outs...

Hope that explains things ;)

I have found a potentiometer on ebay HERE (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/47K-Dual-Stereo-Potentiometer-Linear-PCB-Mount-/230592591582?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Suppl ies_ET&hash=item35b063b6de) it looks like the one you posted a pic of, will this do? says its a 47k.

Thanks,
Adam.

[Reid Malenfant]

Umm, funny that innit :lol:

Yes, that'll do nicely :)

[Puffin]

biggzy. Are you interested in a Teac AL700P Power amp. It has been modded to 2 channel. It looks like it would match with your kit. It is Tripath Based amp.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Teac-A-L700P-Amplifier/dp/B00007MFQY

[biggzy]

Umm, funny that innit :lol:

Yes, that'll do nicely :)

lol i take it thats the one you got the image from?
Just so i understand what does this potentiometer do, i know it adjusts the gain output but does it increase the ohms? also do they step in clicks or is it a smooth adjustment like a volume turn? if you get what i mean.

Thanks,
Adam.

[Alex_UK]

Hi Alex, yes i want to add a power amp, shame Teac didn't make one to match the Ref 300 series, i will get one and maybe make a new front panel so it matches the rest, the Teac power amp i mention on page one can be modded to sound quite good (so i have read), i think its a tripath amp, not sure how well it supposed to sound but im sure its worth a listen.

I am right into the hi-fi thing lol, i have even dressed the ends of my speaker cables etc with braiding and heat shrink + plugs, power lead is next to be changed i think to some Belden, and see what other mods i can do.

Adam.

Thanks for that Adam - sounds like you've got it bad, my friend! Or, should that be you've got it good? :eyebrows:

All great fun innit? :)

[biggzy]

Thanks for that Adam - sounds like you've got it bad, my friend! Or, should that be you've got it good? :eyebrows:

All great fun innit? :)

I would go for the got it good, its both fun and rewarding at the same time, cant go wrong with that. :)

Adam.

[Reid Malenfant]

lol i take it thats the one you got the image from?
I can't guarantee it's the same one but i wouldn't bet it isn't & yes i did swipe the pic from ebay using a screen shot program ;)

Just so i understand what does this potentiometer do, i know it adjusts the gain output but does it increase the ohms? also do they step in clicks or is it a smooth adjustment like a volume turn? if you get what i mean.
Ok, if you just measured the voltage without connecting any power amp to the pre outs you'd get a nice logarithmic law output. It'll be smooth & not like a stepped attenuator ;) Once you connect a power amp the impedance that the pre amp in your Teac will see will be slightly lower. Nothing to worry about as i mentioned earlier as any pre amp should be able to drive a 10K ohm load pretty easily. What your's will see will be a combination of the built in power amp & the gain control & new power amp impedance combined. It'll vary depending on where the gain control is set but it'll never be below about 17K ohm...

Easy to drive :)

[Puffin]

Hi Alex, yes i want to add a power amp, shame Teac didn't make one to match the Ref 300 series

Adam.

See Post 19 ;)

[biggzy]

See Post 19 ;)

Hi rob, sorry i didn't see your post #19, thats the power amp i had in mind, i had a read on web and it seems its easy to mod, its just getting one at the right price, im confident i could mod it myself, shame it dont have the champagne front, but its close enuf :)

Many thanks,
Adam.

[Puffin]

Adam. You have PM.

[biggzy]

Adam. You have PM.

Thanks Rob, you also have a PM, any chance of some images please :)

Thanks again,
Adam.

[Puffin]

Yes. I'll post some.

[biggzy]

Yes. I'll post some.

cheers mate, i appreciate it.

Adam.

[Puffin]

Dimensions are 21.5cm Wide, 31cm Deep and 10cm High.

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i239/saxonsex/Teac001.jpg

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i239/saxonsex/Teac002.jpg

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i239/saxonsex/Teac003.jpg

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i239/saxonsex/AL700P011.jpg

Pic of the wire mod mentioned in the PM and the Pot board. You will see where this would go from the holes on the rear face.

[Reid Malenfant]

Adam, i'm not 100% sure but at a guess you may well not need to add any variable resistor (potentiometer) to your pre/power amp as it appears Puffins power amplifier has a PCB already made up :eyebrows:

Looks like you just might need to fit it once again ;)

[Puffin]

:eyebrows:

Looks like you just might need to fit it once again ;)

I got there before you ;) I sent Adam a PM and mentioned that he might like me to reverse engineer it.

Rob.

[biggzy]

Dimensions are 21.5cm Wide, 31cm Deep and 10cm High.

Pic of the wire mod mentioned in the PM and the Pot board. You will see where this would go from the holes on the rear face.

Thanks very much for the pics Rob, looks in nice condition and ready modded :)

Also noticed you have modded it to have a detachable AC cord, i was going to do that to my ref 300 amp and cd player but what if i plug the fig 8 end in the wrong way and polarity is wrong? or don't that matter?

Thanks very much,
Adam.

[Reid Malenfant]

Also noticed you have modded it to have a detachable AC cord, i was going to do that to my ref 300 amp and cd player but what if i plug the fig 8 end in the wrong way and polarity is wrong? or don't that matter?
It doesn't matter, the equipment must be double insulated...

It'll make zero difference ;)

Any equipment that is fed by a two core mains lead will be double insulated & it won't make a figure of 8 difference which way the power cord is connected :)

[biggzy]

Adam, i'm not 100% sure but at a guess you may well not need to add any variable resistor (potentiometer) to your pre/power amp as it appears Puffins power amplifier has a PCB already made up :eyebrows:

Looks like you just might need to fit it once again ;)


I got there before you ;) I sent Adam a PM and mentioned that he might like me to reverse engineer it.

Rob.

Ahh i see, so if the board gets put back in then that is the gain control? very cool indeed and makes my job modding the H300 a bit more easy.

Adam.

[biggzy]

It doesn't matter, the equipment must be double insulated...

It'll make zero difference ;)

Any equipment that is fed by a two core mains lead will be double insulated & it won't make a figure of 8 difference which way the power cord is connected :)

So it wont blow up? seems another mod is on the list if so.

Thanks for all the help.
Adam

[biggzy]

Is it just me or are these Fig 8 inlets hard to find, i couldn't find anything on ebay or my local electrical store.

Adam.

[Reid Malenfant]

Clicky (http://www.maplin.co.uk/figure-of-8-mains-power-inlet-12050) :eyebrows:

[biggzy]

Clicky (http://www.maplin.co.uk/figure-of-8-mains-power-inlet-12050) :eyebrows:

Brilliant, a trip to Merry Hill it is then to pick these up :)

Thanks,
Adam.

[biggzy]

Looks like i will have to order them as Merry Hill had ran out of them.

Found some on ebay HERE (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Figure-8-Chassis-Mount-Skts-1A-250V-5-pcs_W0QQitemZ250723751318QQcategoryZ45342QQcmdZVie wItemQQ_trksidZp5197.m7QQ_trkparmsZalgo%3DLVI%26it u%3DUCI%26otn%3D5%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D7 919953919706812991) but listing says there 1 Amp, will this really matter?

Thanks,
Adam.

[Reid Malenfant]

They'll handle more current than that as standard ;) In all honesty though i'd be very surprised if that little Teac ever managed to draw 1Amp from the mains, it'd get damn hot :eyebrows:

Those will be fine :cool:

[biggzy]

They'll handle more current than that as standard ;) In all honesty though i'd be very surprised if that little Teac ever managed to draw 1Amp from the mains, it'd get damn hot :eyebrows:

Those will be fine :cool:

Thanks Mark, will get those ;)

Adam.

[biggzy]

Does anyone know where to get some small black screws from, you know the type that get uses on the back of your amp etc to hold the sockets in place, i think there standard size screws on todays products.

Or has anyone got any spare there willing to part with?

Thanks very much,
Adam.

[Reid Malenfant]

I'm pretty sure they'll be M3 screws (http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_from=R40&_trksid=p3984.m570.l1313&_nkw=m3+screw+black&_sacat=See-All-Categories), don't forget nuts & locking washers ;)

[biggzy]

I'm pretty sure they'll be M3 screws (http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_from=R40&_trksid=p3984.m570.l1313&_nkw=m3+screw+black&_sacat=See-All-Categories), don't forget nuts & locking washers ;)

Thanks Mark :) your the man.

Adam.

[Puffin]

I've got some self tapping black screws that are normally used. By the way Adam, there's no hurry to seal the deal. When you are ready let me know. I will put the pot board back in and make sure it is all working ok. I have the box and the manual (somewhere). If you want the screws before the amp send me a PM.

Rob.

Edit : Pot board re-fitted. Will test it by the weekend.

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i239/saxonsex/TeacPotBoard001.jpg

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i239/saxonsex/TeacPotBoard002.jpg

[biggzy]

I've got some self tapping black screws that are normally used. By the way Adam, there's no hurry to seal the deal. When you are ready let me know. I will put the pot board back in and make sure it is all working ok. I have the box and the manual (somewhere). If you want the screws before the amp send me a PM.

Rob.

Edit : Pot board re-fitted. Will test it by the weekend.



Thanks very much Rob, i appreciate it.

PM sent.

Adam.

[biggzy]

Added the fig 8 power inlets today, took ages but happy with it, bit tricky as there was very limited space in each unit, will get some pics up later tonight.

Next job is the RCA sockets for the pre-out, just waiting for the RCA parts to arrive, Rob is sending some screws to pop it all together (thanks mate, appreciate it alot).

Mark i have had a nose in the amp and it seems the part you told me to solder from i a snap-on connector type thingy, will double check as i hope so as it will be easy to do from a connector.

Thanks to all in this thread,
Adam.

[Reid Malenfant]

Mark i have had a nose in the amp and it seems the part you told me to solder from i a snap-on connector type thingy, will double check as i hope so as it will be easy to do from a connector.
Yes, that is what i'd expect it to be seeing as there is a power amp PCB seperate from the pre amp ;) I'm sure i mentioned "connector" even though i can't be 100% sure what is there, but i'd expect it to be a push in & click/lock type connection :)

Good luck, sounds like you are getting there :) I'm having my own fun & games knocking these class D amps up :eyebrows:

[biggzy]

Yes, that is what i'd expect it to be seeing as there is a power amp PCB seperate from the pre amp ;) I'm sure i mentioned "connector" even though i can't be 100% sure what is there, but i'd expect it to be a push in & click/lock type connection :)

Good luck, sounds like you are getting there :) I'm having my own fun & games knocking these class D amps up :eyebrows:

Mark here is the connector you said to wire from....
http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/20/connector1.jpg (http://img10.imageshack.us/i/connector1.jpg/)

And the wires from there goto the other PCB ontop....
http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/8197/connector2.jpg (http://img822.imageshack.us/i/connector2.jpg/)

So my next Q is can i wire the pre-out from the top connector instead as it will be easer to do.

Not sure if you said "connector" before, theres alot of info here for me to take in lol, im a noob at this stuff.

Many thanks,
Adam.

[biggzy]

And here is my pic of the modded power inlets....

http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/949/fig8sockets.jpg (http://img228.imageshack.us/i/fig8sockets.jpg/)

those are makeshift power cords for now (as i had none), will get some belden ones made up soon.
also screws will be replaced with black ones to match.

Adam.

[Reid Malenfant]

So my next Q is can i wire the pre-out from the top connector instead as it will be easer to do.

Not sure if you said "connector" before, theres alot of info here for me to take in lol, im a noob at this stuff.

Many thanks,
Adam.
Just what i expected :eyebrows:

If you disconnect that plug from the power amp PCB & strip a bit of insulation from the wires you should be able to tin & solder straight to the wires. Just make sure you insulate them well afterwards ;) It's not like they'll be moving about though once the plug goes back into the socket on the power amp, best to be safe than sorry though. It looks like there is vastly more than enough wire available to do this, saves messing about :exactly: If you can extract each connector from the block (one at once!!!!) you might be able to slip some heatshrink sleeving over to do a more professional job before re-inserting the connector to the block & doing another :scratch:

Or you might be able to use certain connectors that splice into the present cables, these might be available from car accessory shops though they may be a tad on the large side :D

[biggzy]

Just what i expected :eyebrows:

If you disconnect that plug from the power amp PCB & strip a bit of insulation from the wires you should be able to tin & solder straight to the wires. Just make sure you insulate them well afterwards ;) It's not like they'll be moving about though once the plug goes back into the socket on the power amp, best to be safe than sorry though. It looks like there is vastly more than enough wire available to do this, saves messing about :exactly: If you can extract each connector from the block (one at once!!!!) you might be able to slip some heatshrink sleeving over to do a more professional job before re-inserting the connector to the block & doing another :scratch:

Or you might be able to use certain connectors that splice into the present cables, these might be available from car accessory shops though they may be a tad on the large side :D

Thanks Mark, just what i like to hear :) can i just run 1 ground wire and split it to both RCA outs or must i run 2 separate grounds, 1 from each of the middle wires in the connector?

Also does it matter if the grounding on the pre-outs touch the case of the amp?
For the cable inside can i use one of those cheap RCA leads as it seems fit for the job.

Ta very much,
Adam.

[Reid Malenfant]

You can run one ground from one of the two centre connectors, toss a coin for it :eyebrows: Just make sure that both parts of the potentiometer that i labelled LG & RG are connected together & both outer round sections of the phono plugs. If you aren't fitting the pot then straight to the phono connectors.

The outer ground of the phono connectors will need to be insulated from the chassis!

Yes, cheap RCA leads will be fine for the cable ;)

[biggzy]

You can run one ground from one of the two centre connectors, toss a coin for it :eyebrows: Just make sure that both parts of the potentiometer that i labelled LG & RG are connected together & both outer round sections of the phono plugs. If you aren't fitting the pot then straight to the phono connectors.

The outer ground of the phono connectors will need to be insulated from the chassis!

Yes, cheap RCA leads will be fine for the cable ;)

Thanks mate, all systems go, now gotta find a good RCA insulated socket as the one i ordered has metal touching the chassis, are these (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/New-Pair-Gold-RCA-Phono-Female-Chassis-Insulated-Socket-/230597845475?pt=UK_Computing_CablesConnectors_RL&hash=item35b0b3e1e3) any good?

If i can ever do anything in return i will as you have helped me a hell of a lot, i appreciate it so much mate.

Adam.

[Reid Malenfant]

They'll do fine :)

Adam, we are all here to hopefully help each other out m8 ;) It's no big deal, but cheers for the offer! I'm just pleased that you are heading where you want to go & that i can help out, that gives a certain amount of satisfaction by itself :)

[Puffin]

Adam. I don't have 8 self tapping screws :(

[biggzy]

Adam. I don't have 8 self tapping screws :(

Don't worry mate, will look around for a broken unit and salvage some bits from it, thanks anyway, i appreciate it.

Adam.

[biggzy]

Just thought, as iv not got a power amp yet (saving for one from Rob), can i test the sockets once done with my active sub? will it hurt if i use only one output to the sub or must i run both outputs together?

Thanks again,
Adam.

[Reid Malenfant]

No worries, check one at a time, you won't harm anything just as long as you have done everything correctly modification wise ;)

[biggzy]

Im here to announce the pre-out mod is done! i did have hum on the one channel bit traced back and seen that 1 strand of earth wire was touching the left, removed the culprit and works great, tested it with my sub, both L and R pass the checks, treble, bass and balance all work etc, im now a very happy lad indeed.

Will get some good quality pics up asap, for now here is one taken moments ago when i sorted the hum, very sorry about the poop image quality...

http://img862.imageshack.us/img862/6752/image000z.jpg (http://img862.imageshack.us/i/image000z.jpg/)

Pic shows the wires going from the pre-amp section (where it outputs to the power amp section below it) to the new pre-out sockets at the back.

Used separate earth wires on each channel just to make me feel more at ease.

Like i said i will get some proper pics up soon.

Big thanks to all members in this thread who made this possible :)

Thanks very much,
Adam.

[Alex_UK]

Well done Adam, you're braver than me, tackling that sort of job. Hope it sounds great! :)

[biggzy]

Well done Adam, you're braver than me, tackling that sort of job. Hope it sounds great! :)

Thanks Alex, it was my first proper Hi-Fi mod so was a bit scared but was easyer than i thought it would be, was more tricky than hard due to working with very small connectors etc, but very pleased with the outcome.

I also hope it sounds ok, i can't test it till i get a power amp so had to use an active sub just to make sure the connections all worked, then again it sounded better with the sub as my Eltax speakers are so small, it added some good bass that its been longing for, will save for the amp off Rob then get me some new proper hi-fi speakers for the system.

I have also made some new audio quality mains cables today, nothing expensive, but better than the standard quality cables, also got me a granite board to put the amp/cd player on, used some anti vibration feet on it to stop the unwanted vibes, got some decent quality cables (speaker + interconnect) and iv got to say its by far one of the best mainstream mini separate systems iv heard, a lot better than with stock cables, its amazing what wires can do, and a slab of granite.

Adam.

[Reid Malenfant]

Pic shows the wires going from the pre-amp section (where it outputs to the power amp section below it) to the new pre-out sockets at the back.

Used separate earth wires on each channel just to make me feel more at ease.
Well done Adam, a bit of initiative there by connecting to the pre amp end of the cable which was obviously easier to get to ;) The seperate ground cables really won't make a difference as they are both connected together at either end of the connectors, however it does make for a more cosmetic match & i'd have probably done the same thing, i was simply trying to save you as much hassle as possible :)

Nice one fella, pleased that it all functions as it should (which i knew it would done properly), this might give you a bit more confidence to tackle other stuff if you ever need or desire to ;)

[biggzy]

Well done Adam, a bit of initiative there by connecting to the pre amp end of the cable which was obviously easier to get to ;) The seperate ground cables really won't make a difference as they are both connected together at either end of the connectors, however it does make for a more cosmetic match & i'd have probably done the same thing, i was simply trying to save you as much hassle as possible :)

Nice one fella, pleased that it all functions as it should (which i knew it would done properly), this might give you a bit more confidence to tackle other stuff if you ever need or desire to ;)

Thanks Mark, however i can,t take all the credit here, it was you that gave me the confidence to do it (after my 1000 questions lol), and you who pointed out where to take the wires from etc, so thanks very very much mate.
I had lots of fun modding it and cant wait to get into some other projects, i didn't add a pot but left room to add one in the future should i need one, i even bought it to keep in the bits and bobs draw so its to hand, but as im getting a power amp with gain control i see no point at the mo to fit it, next on the list may be to add some nice looking backlit VU meters to that power amp of Robs (still trying to get the cash for it, almost there), and maybe a few other tweaks.

Then its my main livingroom system to sort out (Sony or Cambridge Audio?), really not sure yet but leaning towards a nice Cambridge setup (5.1 HD), only time will tell.

Thanks again to all :)
Adam.

[Reid Malenfant]

:D So i told you where to wire to.... You still took the big step of trusting what i said & hoping i know what i'm talking about ;)

You still did the work matey... If you hadn't supplied the PDF of the circuit & PCBs etc i'd have probably not taken a lot of interest, but as you'd found it it made things pretty easy if not a little time consuming (not a problem).

Good on you! :) Have fun :cool:

[biggzy]

just having another think an come to the conclusion it would look nice if the lids (top casing) on my Teacs was black, not the nasty gray stock color, what would be best to use for this? if anyone knows, i don't want a gloss black or a matt, a satin finish i think would be best, i thought of powder coating but its too expensive just to change color.

Any thoughts/ideas guys?

Many thanks,
Adam.

[Reid Malenfant]

You could try an oil based paint over the top of what is already on the outer covers of the equipment. Acrylic based should be ok to at a guess as that's oil based..

You want silk, try "eggshell" black paint if you can find it :) I have never looked but i bet it's probably available...

[biggzy]

You could try an oil based paint over the top of what is already on the outer covers of the equipment. Acrylic based should be ok to at a guess as that's oil based..

You want silk, try "eggshell" black paint if you can find it :) I have never looked but i bet it's probably available...

Thanks Mark, will take a look for a oil based paint, a auto shop or diy shop? also would i need to sand down first or just apply? it should stick ok as the surface isn't smooth its a rough sort of paint finish.

Many thanks,
Adam.

[Reid Malenfant]

I'd suggest you make sure that the surface you paint on is clean & if you use a pretty fine wet & dry paper just to give new paint much more of a key onto what's there it'll help.

Eggshell finish is only available in oil based paints, but you can get it from any place specialising in paints (decorators merchants?), i'd suggest you might use a foam roller to good effect to get a nice even finish but i haven't tried it except with white eggshell on my 120" screen for the projector :eyebrows:

[biggzy]

I'd suggest you make sure that the surface you paint on is clean & if you use a pretty fine wet & dry paper just to give new paint much more of a key onto what's there it'll help.

Eggshell finish is only available in oil based paints, but you can get it from any place specialising in paints (decorators merchants?), i'd suggest you might use a foam roller to good effect to get a nice even finish but i haven't tried it except with white eggshell on my 120" screen for the projector :eyebrows:

Sounds good, will try that with a roller, do you know if the hammerite paint is oil based as i think that make of paint is very durable.

Thanks again mate,

Adam.

[Reid Malenfant]

Yes, i'm pretty sure hammerite is oil based. Don't try "smoothrite" (? :scratch:) though unless you like the look of custard :eyebrows:

[biggzy]

Yes, i'm pretty sure hammerite is oil based. Don't try "smoothrite" (? :scratch:) though unless you like the look of custard :eyebrows:

Lol no i hate custard so won't get smoothrite, will get a tin of hammerite and a foam roller.

Adam.

[biggzy]

Started the painting today, the amp lid is done and back on, now just doing the CD player, looks very nice and i must say i did a great job, will get some images up later of the new looking units :)

Now to find some gold/brass screws to use to fasten the new black lid to the chassis to give it a "expensive" sort of look as the front has some gold parts also.

Adam.

[biggzy]

Added better pics down a few posts

Adam.

[Reid Malenfant]

Started the painting today, the amp lid is done and back on, now just doing the CD player, looks very nice and i must say i did a great job
:lolsign: Nothing like blowing your own trumpet every so often :eyebrows:

Actually from what i can see the amp does look quite nice, i prefer it to the standard finish at any rate :)

[Puffin]

Finally got around to testing the power amp today. Everythign is fine and the volume pots work as they should :lol:

[biggzy]

Finally got around to testing the power amp today. Everythign is fine and the volume pots work as they should :lol:

Thanks Rob, glad its all working, shouldn't be too long now and the cash will be winging its way to you.

Adam.

[biggzy]

OK time for some images, first up is a pic of the pre outs i fitted...

http://img861.imageshack.us/img861/1143/preouts.jpg (http://img861.imageshack.us/i/preouts.jpg/)

Soz its a bit blurry, seems to have focused on the other sockets instead.

And here are some better pics of the paint job on the Amp and CD player...

http://img847.imageshack.us/img847/3213/28032011555.jpg (http://img847.imageshack.us/i/28032011555.jpg/)

http://img847.imageshack.us/img847/4205/28032011556.jpg (http://img847.imageshack.us/i/28032011556.jpg/)

http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/8205/28032011557.jpg (http://img717.imageshack.us/i/28032011557.jpg/)

http://img688.imageshack.us/img688/7650/28032011559.jpg (http://img688.imageshack.us/i/28032011559.jpg/)

http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/4342/28032011560.jpg (http://img232.imageshack.us/i/28032011560.jpg/)

http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/9243/28032011564.jpg (http://img8.imageshack.us/i/28032011564.jpg/)

I enjoyed this job alot, turned out better than i expected.

Adam.

[Reid Malenfant]

Did you use a foam roller with the Hammerite Adam? Looks like a nice job from what i can see :) Definately better than the silver finish :eyebrows:

[biggzy]

Did you use a foam roller with the Hammerite Adam? Looks like a nice job from what i can see :) Definately better than the silver finish :eyebrows:

Hi Mark, no i ended up with some spray paint for the job, i couldn't find any hammerite in my local (tiny) DIY shop, there is a couple of dust particles under the paint on top of the amp but you really have to look to see them, had to work in my shed in a make shift spray booth (a sony av amp cardboard box), but it did the trick.

I may give them another few coats over the next few weeks just to make the coat thicker and more robust.

I cant seem to find any gold/brass screws to use on the side to screw the lid to the chassis, think there M4 6mm, there bit bigger than the back screws which i think are M3, might have to pop into my local PC shop and ask them.

Just going to wait now for 2 days before i hook the system back up so leaves the paint plenty time to harden.

Adam.

[Reid Malenfant]

I cant seem to find any gold/brass screws to use on the side to screw the lid to the chassis, think there M4 6mm, there bit bigger than the back screws which i think are M3, might have to pop into my local PC shop and ask them.
Hi Adam, me again :doh:

Yellow pages used to be great for looking for suppliers of bolts, screws, nuts etc (plenty of nuts on here :eyebrows:) but i'm not sure how good it is these days...

Look for a bolt supplier near you, i had a few here in Peterborough so things can't be too bad. You'll be amazed at what these people stock. I Bought solid brass M6 screw thread, nuts, locking washers etc. They'll likely have all sorts of threads & lengths in stock or could get them - it's what they do after all :cool:

[biggzy]

Hi Adam, me again :doh:

Yellow pages used to be great for looking for suppliers of bolts, screws, nuts etc (plenty of nuts on here :eyebrows:) but i'm not sure how good it is these days...

Look for a bolt supplier near you, i had a few here in Peterborough so things can't be too bad. You'll be amazed at what these people stock. I Bought solid brass M6 screw thread, nuts, locking washers etc. They'll likely have all sorts of threads & lengths in stock or could get them - it's what they do after all :cool:

I will have a look in the big yellow book, i think i will take one of the original screws with me, that would be a good idea as they probably have 100+ dif types.

Thanks Mark, have a cyber beer on me .. :cool:

Adam

[24tuccu]

hey, thanks guys, as i have the same system this may come in handy :)

[Spectral Morn]

hey, thanks guys, as i have the same system this may come in handy :)

Please pop into the Welcome section of the forum on your return and say hello there, tell us a wee bit about yourself, system and taste in music. Thank you in advance.


Regards D S D L