forgot to put some pics up of the ebay special ...so without further ado
forgot to put some pics up of the ebay special ...so without further ado
heres some more of the guts.
whoever originally built and modded this did a real great job,i guy who was selling it didn't seem to have so much passion towards it....still all being said,it did arrive safely....more by luck i suspect
i really like it,it has a slight rumble,and the linn arm lift seems to not go up far enough,and can lose height at times.
so once i drag myself away from just playing it i will have to strip it down and check it over,oil and grease....and maybe mod a little more
regards
smithie
The bearing is easy enough to strip and relube Paul so I would tackle that first . Then have a look at the idler wheel , it can cause rumble too .
If you want to tackle the motor there's a few instruction videos on youtube . I never touched the motor as mine was quiet .
Make sure that the motor isn't touching anything , including the plinth , as this can cause a really annoying vibration .
Looks like a very nice example of a GL75
Regards
Brian
Sell your cleverness and buy bewilderment . (Rumi )
Korus Computer Audio music server
JustBoom DAC . HRT Musicstreamer 2
Amplifier : Sony TA FB740R
Speakers : Tannoy 637
Interconnects : MS Audio / Klotz MC5000 .
Speaker cables : Western Electric 16AG
Beautiful example Paul, not sure about the table cloth though
Just listening to some fabulous Ella Fitzgerald on HMV on my Lenco
You might want to check the alignment of the motor suspension springs as it's these little buggers which usually cause a lot of grief.
The motor is a doddle to service, with a little practice it can be stripped, cleaned, serviced and re-assembled in ~30 minutes.
The bearing take about 15-20 minutes to service and TBH once you've checked the motor suspension springs, serviced the motor and bearing you shouldn't need to anything more. The idler wheel needs to be checked to make sure it's aligned and not bent, but again that's pi$$ easy to do.
Nice deck by the way.
SS
CD Teac VRDS25X(Audiotuned) DECK 1210 Mat Crystal Audio Mods MN Base/Bearing/Platter+Ebony armboard Feet Isonoe PSU Paul Hynes SR7EHD-27XL/DCSXL Ag DC lead/3 Stage Regs/Recap PCB+No Pitch/Strobe/Light ARM SME V(Kondo Ag Rewire&Tags) MC Cadenza Black FGS CABLES Arm Yannis SPD-4 IC Yannis 222 Litz+Ag bullets Power WAR PRE ATC SCA2 SPEAKERS ATC 50ASL STANDS Atacama PHONO Sugden Masterclass PA4 SUT Ortofon ST80SE POWER PSAudio P10
VALVE
PRE Croft Epoch(Modded) AMP Sondex S100 (Modded) SPEAKERS Tannoy 15"MG+RFC Warwick cabs+ Ref XO + Batpure supertweeters DECK Garrard 301 Mat Teunto Bearings 401(Bastin) Plinth Bamboo Arms 3009/3012 PSU Eagle+Tachometer MC Ag Meister II/FGS + Ortofon SPU MONO CABLES Arm Yannis 420.5 Litz+ SpeakerPC Tripple C+WBT-0681 Ag IC Oyaide FTVS-510 AgWBT 0110Ag Phonostages Paradise(4 Box Mega-Modded) / Croft Musicmaker
hi guys
thanks for the advice and tips...regarding the table cloth,thats laid down whenever im fiddling...it chills me as i work
well for a quicky i took the platter off,the whole spindle came with it,along with the ball bearing....can detect a flat spot on the ball bearing which isnt going to help.....along with everything being bone dry
is the general consensus lith grease for the bearing?
all i had at hand,and im still trying to work out why i had that at handwas some ep90 gear oil...my theory being anything is better then nothing at this stage....ill have alittle listern later
as im gonna be getting my hands dirty with this deck(the plan was to just play this one while i work on the technics and get that sorted first) i think i need to start getting up a tool kit of supplys and bits and pieces for the day i go right through it,so any lists of things i need by those in the know would be handy....but i do realise its well covered in various threads....im just being lazy and trying to save time by not going all through them again
the platter buffed up really well,more so as i didnt really put any effort into it.....oooh shiney
regards
smithie
SS
CD Teac VRDS25X(Audiotuned) DECK 1210 Mat Crystal Audio Mods MN Base/Bearing/Platter+Ebony armboard Feet Isonoe PSU Paul Hynes SR7EHD-27XL/DCSXL Ag DC lead/3 Stage Regs/Recap PCB+No Pitch/Strobe/Light ARM SME V(Kondo Ag Rewire&Tags) MC Cadenza Black FGS CABLES Arm Yannis SPD-4 IC Yannis 222 Litz+Ag bullets Power WAR PRE ATC SCA2 SPEAKERS ATC 50ASL STANDS Atacama PHONO Sugden Masterclass PA4 SUT Ortofon ST80SE POWER PSAudio P10
VALVE
PRE Croft Epoch(Modded) AMP Sondex S100 (Modded) SPEAKERS Tannoy 15"MG+RFC Warwick cabs+ Ref XO + Batpure supertweeters DECK Garrard 301 Mat Teunto Bearings 401(Bastin) Plinth Bamboo Arms 3009/3012 PSU Eagle+Tachometer MC Ag Meister II/FGS + Ortofon SPU MONO CABLES Arm Yannis 420.5 Litz+ SpeakerPC Tripple C+WBT-0681 Ag IC Oyaide FTVS-510 AgWBT 0110Ag Phonostages Paradise(4 Box Mega-Modded) / Croft Musicmaker
hi andrew
thanks for the heads up regarding the oil,i will certainly look into it when i get my head on.
do you feel a different bearing is a investment and improvement?of course the one you brought can no longer be brought,i was after the reinforcement coller that he made,still plenty others out there, they all look shiney and nicely made.
was thinking of going the double platter route....mainly to help sort my vta adjustment problem out....but i may have a quick fix for that,but i do like this,https://lencohell.wordpress.com/component/ but like all these things,you never know if there really a improvement till you have them,listened and played....thank god i have limited funds at the moment,that limits my hastiness and reckless gun oh approach.
heres a quick question...
i cant get the vta level because the linn arm fitted cant go down low enough to match up to the platter,i cant build up the platter enough with mats etc as i then run out of spindle to secure the record.....temp solution im thinking is to make a thick card or something spacer to fit between the arm headshell and cartridge,i realise i have to keep a eye on the weight of said spacer but do you experts reckon that will work?any problems with that idea? i have about 2-3mm thread length on the cartridge nuts and bolts so i should be able to make a spacer that size.
regards
smithie
An easy adaptation is to use a Rega glass platter on top of the existing Lenco one. There's a centre spindle extension available to do this. It works very well.
It is impossible for anything digital to sound analogue, because it isn't analogue!