How big Alan?
Sent from my EVA-L09 using Tapatalk
How big Alan?
Sent from my EVA-L09 using Tapatalk
Yep you're dead right. I'll just ignore all this nonsense.... Have you tried putting a carrot on top of each speaker? It's as likely to improve the sound as anything being discussed here and would have the same scientific merit.... Carry on. I'll try and avoid looking at this thread to avoid the wincing it gives me!
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Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
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Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco
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Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & reg mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat/Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight/Isonoe feet & boots/Ortofon RS-212D/Denon DL-103GL in Denon PCL-300 headshell with Funk Firm Houdini/Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.
Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp/Denon AU-310 SUT.
Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.
CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.
Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new, by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.
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Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.
Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.
Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.
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Mana Acoustics Racks / Bright Star IsoNodes Decoupling >> Allo DigiOne Player >> Pedja Rogic's Audial Model S DAC + Pioneer PL-71 turntable / Vista Audio phono-1 mk II / Denon PCL-5 headshell / Reson Reca >> LFD DLS >> LFD PA2M (SE) >> Royd RR3s.
The so-called "series" resistor and "shunt" resistor in a potential divider are both doing the same job and one cannot be more more important than the other. Imagine as an example a poor quality resistor which has a lot of parasitic inductance: if you put it in the shunt position where, it is claimed, it doesn't matter it will still form a high pass filter. So it must matter! Of course it does or else why have it there at all? There's no rational explanation as to why one of the two resistors should be more important than the other - other than expectation bias based on a misunderstanding of electronics and a belief in "the signal path".
I think you're being a bit unfair there, Jez. It's perfectly possible to have too much gain at the front end of a circuit - so it distorts - but also have some attenuation further down the line so the actual signal level doesn't appear to be overly "hot". Less gain at the front and more gain (or less attenuation) later on would cure it.
BTW, I'm not familiar with the exact circuit details of the Jolida but I have read that it does suffer from piling on the gain and then simply cutting the level with attenuation.
Ok, so from a working mans perspective. Trying to emulate the Goldpoint with cheaper alternatives. what's the most important part.
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Mana Acoustics Racks / Bright Star IsoNodes Decoupling >> Allo DigiOne Player >> Pedja Rogic's Audial Model S DAC + Pioneer PL-71 turntable / Vista Audio phono-1 mk II / Denon PCL-5 headshell / Reson Reca >> LFD DLS >> LFD PA2M (SE) >> Royd RR3s.
Thanks Neil. It's there I shall start.
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It's quite important to configure the attenuator in a way that never puts an undue load on the source or has an unduly high output impedance. However, that's quite simple - just wire the attenuator as a conventional volume control rather than trying to have "just a single resistor in the signal path". I set out my reasons for this in post #24 of this thread: http://theartofsound.net/forum/showt...tenuator/page3
At its simplest, you could make a passive preamp with just a pot. I'd suggest a pot between 10k and 25k. 10k will have the advantage of a lower output impedance. 25k will have the advantage of a higher input impedance.
There are plenty of pots to choose from here:
https://www.hificollective.co.uk/com...tiometers.html
Next level up is to use a stepped attenuator instead of a pot. There are plenty to choose from here:
https://www.hificollective.co.uk/com...tenuators.html
25 years ago when I started to make passive preamps there were hardly any stepped attenuators available - now there seem to be hundreds! I used to make my own with 132 steps If there's so much interest in stepped attenuators, how come I never got rich?