What opamp would you recommend with Chicago?
I find the sound very airy, even windy.
Edit: On a more serious note, how large are the legs on the WM8176? I've only got a 1mm tip soldering iron, I get the feeling this isn't fine enough.
Location: Hailing from sunny south east London
Posts: 111
What opamp would you recommend with Chicago?
I find the sound very airy, even windy.
Edit: On a more serious note, how large are the legs on the WM8176? I've only got a 1mm tip soldering iron, I get the feeling this isn't fine enough.
Last edited by ZebuTheOxen; 22-07-2009 at 15:43.
Tom
AKG K701, TC-7520 HPA/DAC, Yamaha RX-V396RDS, Some awful speakers
Location: North Northumberland
Posts: 10
I'm Kevin.
Hi,
Do you think it is worth doing the MLC8 & MLC9 mod?
Will I notice much difference with my HD650's ?
I am pleased with my LM4562NA upgrade that has made a difference
( I think sometimes i spend too much time Modding and not listening to music)
Sennheiser HD650: Beresford 7520: Squeezebox Classic: 24" Intel iMac
Kevin
I think you mean the WM8716. According to the spec sheet the legs are about 0.3mm wide and the gap between the legs is about 0.3mm. So they're stupidly tiny.
I'm in the same boat as you, I have a 1mm tip soldering iron and I fancy swapping to the WM8716 but what with the size of the legs and the cramped position it's located in I think the likelihood of me knackering it up are quite high. Stan mentioned he was trying to negotiate a deal with an electronics expert to provide a mod service, hopefully Stan will have more details about this soon.
Source: Apple TV 4K - DAC: Beresford Bushmaster Mk II - Preamp: CI AudioPLC-1 Mk II - Power Amps: Musical Fidelity 550K mono blocks - Speakers: Wharfedale Opus 3 - Cables: Mark Grant etc - Misc: Belkin PF30 mains filters.
OK, Stan and Leo have covered the swapping of the DAC in another thread, and having tackled the job myself I can confirm that it is quite a tricky operation.
The IC's legs are 0.6mm between centres, so it's pretty tight. However, the soldering iron bit I used is 1.5mm and it was OK. Problem with using a very fine bit is that it wont hold much solder and loses it's tinning quickly.
Best advice I can give is to get yourself a flux pen and don't be afraid to use it. Flux is the magic sauce which will prevent solder tracking between pins. Also be careful with the PCB pads, they lift very easily when heated - But pins 6,12, 17 and 22 are not used, A couple of these lifted on mine.
Unless you have eyes like a shite hawk, you will also need plenty light and magnification...
Good luck - Ken
Last edited by sponge; 22-07-2009 at 18:00.
__________________________________
"Subtle is the Lord, but malicious He is not"
- Albert Einstein.
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Naim ND5 XS, nDAC, XP5 XS, 202, HC, NAPSC, 250.2, B&W 804s.
AVR350, B&W HTM4, Gallo.
Samsung, Oppo.
What you need is something like this:
PSU
I use something similar, set at 14V.
Stan
Website: http://www.homehifi.co.uk
Website: http://www.beresford.me
Website: http://www.homehifi.asia
I just stumbled across this great tutorial on surface mount soldering with a regular soldering iron: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3NN7UGWYmBY
The same group also have a few other good tutorials on soldering.
Source: Apple TV 4K - DAC: Beresford Bushmaster Mk II - Preamp: CI AudioPLC-1 Mk II - Power Amps: Musical Fidelity 550K mono blocks - Speakers: Wharfedale Opus 3 - Cables: Mark Grant etc - Misc: Belkin PF30 mains filters.
Location: Hailing from sunny south east London
Posts: 111
As a quick update, I'm finding the THS4032 on the line output with a 4562NA on the HPA a very 'thorough' sound. Unfortunately some parts of the sound are recessed, notably guitars in busy passages.
On my original amp these would come through clear as a bell, very easy to follow etc. but this most certainly isn't true with the 4032/4562 setup. At some points I had to strain to make them out in passages where I knew they were. The grunt / growl of distortion on certain guitar effects isn't as forward as it should be in the music.
Drums are very prominent and correct sounding with this setup, the bass is very very taut and sounds excellent. This dominance of bass might be masking the guitars. Any suggestions for some mid-range emphasis mods?
Tom
AKG K701, TC-7520 HPA/DAC, Yamaha RX-V396RDS, Some awful speakers
If you are using your original amp as a reference, and that's the sound you are after, then maybe you are better off sticking to the amp. On many audio devices the bass and tops are several decibels down on the 0dB level, which then produces an unnatural extrusion of the midrange. When you then start listening to a different piece of equipment without the drooping bass or treble response, the sudden repositioning of the midrange within the audio spectrum gain level can come as a shock. If the midrange is too forward, you kill the soundstage.
Stan
Website: http://www.homehifi.co.uk
Website: http://www.beresford.me
Website: http://www.homehifi.asia
Location: Hailing from sunny south east London
Posts: 111
I had a feeling you were going to say that!
The fidelity on the 7520 is so much better.
I guess I'll have to listen to all the music instead of just the guitars now![]()
Tom
AKG K701, TC-7520 HPA/DAC, Yamaha RX-V396RDS, Some awful speakers