TAD CD / DAC / Pre, Technics 1210, MCRU PSU, Mike New Bearing & Platter, Stillpoints LP1 weight, Speedy Steve Ebony armboard, Fidelity Research FR64FX arm, Ortofon SPU. Aurorasound VIDA Phono Pre Amp, TAD Power Amp, TAD E1 speakers. Coherent RTZ 3 Grounding box, Coherent grounding cables, Creaktiv racks. Coherent Mains Cables. SR Blue Fuse. Interconnects : Coherent and Yannis 223.5 Connect Litz. Coherent speaker cable. Audio Magic Transcendence Conditioner. Coherent mains socket. Mains Filters : , PS Audio Harvesters, Russ Andrews Purifiers, Tacima, Vertex. Black Ravioli and RDC supports. Electric Beach S1NX platforms for TAD CD and Technics. Ferrite chokes everywhere except the above. Ears, brain
Mike
Unless you have a Mike New Bearing, which is not buttons, but BIG buttons!!!!
So if any of the following is used on the 1200, can any of these items contribute to additional unbalancing causing wear to the original or a high end bearing if weight is evenly distributed from these items:
centre record weight
record ring
replacement record mat (or an Oyaide or Copper Record Mat designed for the 1200)
?
Given the weight is not much of the original platter, and that the weight of the Dynamat Xtreme replacing the original underside mat will not be a significant difference in weight, how much concern would unbalancing and speed hunting play into such factors?
Now its time for the loaded questions to come out:
Is there a chance that to find a proper machinist with the proper tools and experience to balance our platters, or will this be a futile effort with the 1200s ? (SME, Funk Firm anyone?)
Will using a Mike New aluminum CU bonded Platter with his bearing be unbalanced ? I know this is best left for Mike to answer, but it would be interesting to hear others comment on this.
Last edited by CableMaker1; 21-12-2013 at 16:19.
Anyone who thinks CDs sound better needs to listen to my system. Besides, my cables sound better than yours.
Technics SL1200-MK2 SE-1: MN Bearing + Baseplate + AL/CU Platter, Paul Hynes SR7 Power Supply, Isonoe Feet, SME V, Audio Technica AT33EV, CableMaker 1 Tonearm Cable
Technics SL1200-MK2 SE-2: MN Bearing + Baseplate, Copper Mat, Paul Hynes SR7 Power Supply, Isonoe Feet, SME 309, Audio Technica ATOC9/MLII, CableMaker 1 Tonearm Cable
MikeMusic-
Thanks. 3PO usually sports a flat cap but thought some "cans" would be more appropriate to the forum.
May the Force be with you!
Last edited by DarrenHW; 22-12-2013 at 15:33.
Anyone who thinks CDs sound better needs to listen to my system. Besides, my cables sound better than yours.
Technics SL1200-MK2 SE-1: MN Bearing + Baseplate + AL/CU Platter, Paul Hynes SR7 Power Supply, Isonoe Feet, SME V, Audio Technica AT33EV, CableMaker 1 Tonearm Cable
Technics SL1200-MK2 SE-2: MN Bearing + Baseplate, Copper Mat, Paul Hynes SR7 Power Supply, Isonoe Feet, SME 309, Audio Technica ATOC9/MLII, CableMaker 1 Tonearm Cable
Wouldn’t it also have been an option to apply the Dynamat to the TOP surface of the platter, and place your choice of mat on top of that?
It would certainly be easier to do this. Also, you’d still have the benefit of the rubber on the underside.
Placing Dynamat on the top surface of a platter should be avoided at all-costs. Only a mat should be placed on top of a platter. The surface of a mat is flat, and should bond to the surface of the platter for best contact results. Placing an LP or record on top of the mat should lay flat (assuming that the record is not warped) to get the best mat-to-record contact possible. Only then will you get the best results of your record-mat-platter combination.
Dynamat is sticky-tak on one side, and a soft, rubber surface on the top side, covered by aluminum foil. It would not provide the damping results you want by applying it on the top-side of the platter. Its best use is on the underside. Trying to flatten Dynamat to make an even surface that you would want would not be possible with this type of material.
Dynamat does have a great purpose which I have used it for - to dampen the rings in your speaker baskets. Give it a shot!!! It will be well worth your time, and does not cost that much money to make a modest improvement to your sonic investment.
Anyone who thinks CDs sound better needs to listen to my system. Besides, my cables sound better than yours.
Technics SL1200-MK2 SE-1: MN Bearing + Baseplate + AL/CU Platter, Paul Hynes SR7 Power Supply, Isonoe Feet, SME V, Audio Technica AT33EV, CableMaker 1 Tonearm Cable
Technics SL1200-MK2 SE-2: MN Bearing + Baseplate, Copper Mat, Paul Hynes SR7 Power Supply, Isonoe Feet, SME 309, Audio Technica ATOC9/MLII, CableMaker 1 Tonearm Cable
Location: Napier, New Zealand
Posts: 1,519
I'm Andrei.
It makes perfect sense to me, and I would do it myself if only I could get into my speakers. The speaker baskets are the closest things (by definition) to the speaker cones and I think it would have to make an improvement. I have seen some pictures of this but I simply can't remember where - on a car audio website I think.
[COLOR=#a52a2a][B]Sources:[/B] [B]1[/B][/COLOR] PC & Wyred4Sound DAC-2 DSDse [COLOR=#a52a2a][B]2[/B][/COLOR] Oppo BDP105 [COLOR=#a52a2a][B]3[/B][/COLOR] Technics SL·1210 MK5 (Jelco 750D · Benz Wood). [COLOR=#a52a2a][B]Speaker Cable[/B][/COLOR] [COLOR=black]Nordost Frey.[/COLOR] [COLOR=#a52a2a][B]Interconnects [/B][/COLOR][COLOR=#000000]Oyaide[/COLOR][COLOR=black] & [/COLOR][COLOR=#000000]Geisha [/COLOR][COLOR=black]Silver.
[/COLOR][B][COLOR=#a52a2a]Phono Stage [/COLOR][/B][COLOR=black]Fosgate Signature V2. [/COLOR] [COLOR=#a52a2a][B]Preamp [/B][/COLOR][COLOR=#000000]Ayon Eris[/COLOR][COLOR=black]. [/COLOR] [COLOR=#a52a2a][B]Power Amp[/B][/COLOR] [COLOR=Black]ATC P1. [/COLOR] [COLOR=#a52a2a][B]Speakers[/B][/COLOR] Triangle Magellan Cello. [COLOR=#A9A9A9]Oh Sting, where is thy death?[/COLOR]
Far easier to just remove the rubber and glue, mask the important bits and use spray adhesive to remount the rubber using a roller to ensure even adhesion.
dynamat and heat not good bed fellows, there's an Extreme mat for that purpose. Use it on drive unit chassis but not magnets, at least not if you run em 'ard.
Kuzma Stabi/S 12", (LP12-bastard) DC motor and optical tacho psu, Benz LP, Paradise (phonostage). MB-Pro, Brooklyn dac and psu, Bruno Putzeys balanced pre, mod86p dual mono amps, Yamaha NS1000m
Dynamat is generally used in the automobile market as its prime objective is to insulate or dampen sound that can get into your car from the car door and trunk. However, with these damping properties, it became popular and reached into other markets - for one thing - is to dampen speaker baskets. I found it to be pretty useful. If you go this route - you will need only one or two sheets.
The leftovers you can use to dampen the Techie platter which I may perform sometime in the spring.
Anyone who thinks CDs sound better needs to listen to my system. Besides, my cables sound better than yours.
Technics SL1200-MK2 SE-1: MN Bearing + Baseplate + AL/CU Platter, Paul Hynes SR7 Power Supply, Isonoe Feet, SME V, Audio Technica AT33EV, CableMaker 1 Tonearm Cable
Technics SL1200-MK2 SE-2: MN Bearing + Baseplate, Copper Mat, Paul Hynes SR7 Power Supply, Isonoe Feet, SME 309, Audio Technica ATOC9/MLII, CableMaker 1 Tonearm Cable
Location: Co. Durham
Posts: 1,966
I'm Stephen.
So, who has a platter that IS balanced?
The AR XAU's platter was balanced as was the AR 77's.
Nearly 40 years ago I used Bostik Sound Deadening Panels intended for use on cars on a Thorens 160 and AR XAU to good effect.