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Thread: Pioneer PL-71.

  1. #11
    Join Date: Jul 2010

    Location: 'ersham. Surrey, England.

    Posts: 54
    I'm Steve.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Marco View Post
    Hi Shane,

    I've heard a few PL-71s and they're top-notch - miles better than a stock Techie, for example. It's only when a high-quality off-board PSU, new tonearm, mat and feet are fitted to the Techie that it starts to overtake the Pioneer - of course at considerable cost.

    The PL-71 is pretty well sorted in stock form, and comes in a very solid wooden plinth and with a highly capable S-shaped tonearm as standard. It was built first and foremost as a hi-end turntable by Pioneer in the heyday of vinyl.

    Compared to a stock Techie, the PL-71 has a warmer and more 'chunky' sound, but without being in any way bloated or euphonic sounding. It's relaxing on the ear, yet involving to listen to at the same time - the sort of T/T where you forget about the hi-fi and just enjoy the music.

    If you can find one in good nick at the right price, my advice is to buy with confidence!

    Marco.
    Yup, couldn't agree more with that summary.

    I've got got hold of one (US version) some time back after listening to Speedy Steve's. Yes are very musical decks and easy to listen two. The mat on them seems to play quite apart in the sound presentation. Speedy and I messed around with different mats one afternoon and the Pioneer mat came up trumps every time. He even tried out a copper mat and it gave that a run for its money too. He still uses a PL71 mat on his set up.

    At the moment I have a Ortofon Rodo Bronze on it and all seems to be well suited. Before the Bronze I had a Rondo Red which was good and prior to these two I had a Denon 304, but I wasn't too keen on this.

    One thing you have to watch out for is dicky speed pots and micro switches. They get a bit dirty after all these years and usually the cause of the speed drifting out. A spay of Deoxit can sort them out.

    On my US deck I had to change the micro switches and speed pots to get it back in . Can be a fiddly job. I also changed all the electrolytics on the motor board too, just as a matter of course - now that was a game to do . The electrolytics on the PSU board can be another source of speed drifting badly too (easy job). Just a process of elimination.

    I have a UK PL71 version (as a backup/ donor) and that only needed a quick spray on the micro switches.

    Speedy Steve also rewired one of the arms for me too and that helped to give a better clarity/detail to the music.

    All-in-all you can't go wrong if you can pick up one of these lovely T/Ts, especially if you can get it on the cheap. The last time I saw one come up it went for about £270.

    Cheers - Steve

  2. #12
    Join Date: Mar 2009

    Location: The New Forest

    Posts: 1,861
    I'm Steve.

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    The arm and mat make the deck I think.
    I use the arm (I converted to 12" with Litz silver wire) and the 'hard' PL-71 mat (yes there is a soft one - perhaps for European models) on my SP-10. Might swap it for a FR64s one day if i could afford it but in the meantime that arm does it for me on the SPU Silver Meister.
    It's an Acos arm made for Pioneer.
    Very similar to a Rega R200 arm (also Acos) but slightly more solid build.

    Anyway the deck was/is a very solid perform and once the switches & speed reg pots on mine were replaced (easy DIY) it performs very well - as stated above.

    I went the whole hog and replaced all the electro caps on the PSU and motor PCB and that had a small effect really compared to the switches and pots.

    It feels classy to use, is a nice big deck, everything is well spaced out - I even put a parallel tracking air arm once upon a time on it for a laugh
    Has a bit sprung feet that you need to centre to get the best out of them. The wood loves polish or liquid scratch remover for an instant refurb.

    A US example is a one wire solder change to make work on UK / Euro voltage!

    I tell myself I should put the Rega R200 (12") arm on the SP-10 and re-unite the PL-71 arm with it's deck and flog it! BUT I'd need to fork out £200-£300 for a Cu mat - more than the cost of the PL-71 to get the SP-10 back to level ground - Yes the mat is that good on the SP-10 / on the SL-1210 I used to have.

    (I am currently converting a Rega R200 to 12" for a chap, with Litz Silver and Cardas DIN end plug and 90 deg angle socket thingy - will be testing that on the 2nd armboard soon)
    Last edited by Magna Audio; 01-12-2010 at 17:57.
    System: Turntable : SP10 MKII slate plinth, Custom Ebony tonearm board, Arm : Fidelity Research FR64s, Cartridge : SPU Royal N. SUT : Lundahl 1:13. Phonostage : Icon Audio, Streaming RPi/Kali reclocker -> I2S -> DSP XO / Pre / 4 DAC's : WAF Najda, 5 Poweramps : 3 x EL84 SET's, 2 x D class amps on bass channels, Speakers : 5 way front loaded horn system: 2 X Tapped sub 15" LF drivers / 2 X Exponential mid bass 15" drivers / Tractrix 200Hz mid horns with JBL2482's, / Tractrix 550Hz upper wooden horns with factory refurb'd Vitavox S2's / Raal Lazy Ribbons as high frequency tweeters. Wires: good silver or good copper where best suited. DIY RCM.

    Maker of tonearm boards, armpods, Tannoy GRF style speaker cabinets, horn speakers, counterweights and more.
    For more information about my creations and products please click below

    http://fosworld.wixsite.com/magna-audio & on Instagram https://www.instagram.com/magna_audio/

  3. #13
    Join Date: Aug 2010

    Location: Torquay, Devon.

    Posts: 5,684
    I'm Shane.

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    Thanks for all the info guys.

    I take it the arm on the PL-71 can take some good expensive cartridges.

  4. #14
    Join Date: Mar 2009

    Location: The New Forest

    Posts: 1,861
    I'm Steve.

    Default

    In standard 9" form with a bigger CW it will take top SPU's no probs, I have also read it works with top London Decca's too.
    I've not heard it with say IO's, Koetsu's etc.
    It will take a wide range of cart weights (something like 4g to 22g) with the standard weight as it can be slid backwards. Best to mass up with the low compliance ones and get the weight near the pivot.
    System: Turntable : SP10 MKII slate plinth, Custom Ebony tonearm board, Arm : Fidelity Research FR64s, Cartridge : SPU Royal N. SUT : Lundahl 1:13. Phonostage : Icon Audio, Streaming RPi/Kali reclocker -> I2S -> DSP XO / Pre / 4 DAC's : WAF Najda, 5 Poweramps : 3 x EL84 SET's, 2 x D class amps on bass channels, Speakers : 5 way front loaded horn system: 2 X Tapped sub 15" LF drivers / 2 X Exponential mid bass 15" drivers / Tractrix 200Hz mid horns with JBL2482's, / Tractrix 550Hz upper wooden horns with factory refurb'd Vitavox S2's / Raal Lazy Ribbons as high frequency tweeters. Wires: good silver or good copper where best suited. DIY RCM.

    Maker of tonearm boards, armpods, Tannoy GRF style speaker cabinets, horn speakers, counterweights and more.
    For more information about my creations and products please click below

    http://fosworld.wixsite.com/magna-audio & on Instagram https://www.instagram.com/magna_audio/

  5. #15
    Join Date: Aug 2010

    Location: Torquay, Devon.

    Posts: 5,684
    I'm Shane.

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    How much will you have to spend at least on a 1200 to fully better the PL-71?

  6. #16
    Join Date: Mar 2009

    Location: The New Forest

    Posts: 1,861
    I'm Steve.

    Default

    Hmm - I've had both. My SL-1210 had a DIY PSU and off deck transformer - fraction of what the commercial version costs. My SL-1210 only really came alive when I put the PL-71 arm on it - did not work with Rega RB250 (not to be confused with the R200 Acos arm, probably what made the early Planar sound any good to be honest).
    I then prefered the SL-1210's grip and accuracy. So, in my experience some kind of PSU / transformer fix and a good arm will do it. Oh and some of those Isonoe or Foculpod type feet on the SL-1210 as well. Mats - up to the Cu mat if you don't have a PL-71 one handy:-)
    System: Turntable : SP10 MKII slate plinth, Custom Ebony tonearm board, Arm : Fidelity Research FR64s, Cartridge : SPU Royal N. SUT : Lundahl 1:13. Phonostage : Icon Audio, Streaming RPi/Kali reclocker -> I2S -> DSP XO / Pre / 4 DAC's : WAF Najda, 5 Poweramps : 3 x EL84 SET's, 2 x D class amps on bass channels, Speakers : 5 way front loaded horn system: 2 X Tapped sub 15" LF drivers / 2 X Exponential mid bass 15" drivers / Tractrix 200Hz mid horns with JBL2482's, / Tractrix 550Hz upper wooden horns with factory refurb'd Vitavox S2's / Raal Lazy Ribbons as high frequency tweeters. Wires: good silver or good copper where best suited. DIY RCM.

    Maker of tonearm boards, armpods, Tannoy GRF style speaker cabinets, horn speakers, counterweights and more.
    For more information about my creations and products please click below

    http://fosworld.wixsite.com/magna-audio & on Instagram https://www.instagram.com/magna_audio/

  7. #17
    Join Date: Aug 2010

    Location: Torquay, Devon.

    Posts: 5,684
    I'm Shane.

    Default

    I will like to get a PL-71. I've put up a WTB Ad for one. I hope I'll buy a good one.

  8. #18
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,012
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

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    Shane, I think you should buy a PL-71 and get some experience using it to form your own opinion. It won't cost you a fortune, and if you like it, then you've won a watch. If you don't, you'll be able to sell it on no problem without making a loss.

    At that point (if it happens) you can look at obtaining a Techie and modifying it. So, get the ball rolling, find a PL-71 for sale and let us know how you get on

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & reg mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat/Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight/Isonoe feet & boots/Ortofon RS-212D/Denon DL-103GL in Denon PCL-300 headshell with Funk Firm Houdini/Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp/Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new, by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. LDR Stereo Coffee. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.


    Protect your HUMAN RIGHTS and REFUSE ANY *MANDATORY* VACCINE FOR COVID-19!

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  9. #19
    Join Date: Aug 2010

    Location: Torquay, Devon.

    Posts: 5,684
    I'm Shane.

    Default

    No problem.

    Thanks.

  10. #20
    Join Date: Dec 2009

    Location: York, UK.

    Posts: 238
    I'm Andrew.

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    Guys I hate to be the dissenting voice but having heard the PL71 I would just like to say Thorens TD150!

    I'll get my coat.

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