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Thread: Pass F5 Power Amp

  1. #1
    Join Date: Sep 2008

    Location: Hampshire

    Posts: 330

    Default Pass F5 Power Amp

    I present my F5 (taa-daa!)...yet another one of Nelson's designs rolls off the virtual production line





    I finally got around connecting it to my Brines FT1600s speakers and was mightily impressed when compared to the various amps I have owned over the years. The drive, weight, bass and texture of the sound certainly put a smile on my face!

  2. #2
    Join Date: Aug 2008

    Location: Tyldesley Manchester

    Posts: 294
    I'm David.

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    Looks really well made and good attention to detail. I made the F5 also but bought a ready made case from Italy. Took a little while for mine to settle down and run in.
    David.

  3. #3
    Join Date: Jun 2010

    Location: Southampton

    Posts: 1,620
    I'm drunk.


  4. #4
    Join Date: Sep 2008

    Location: Hampshire

    Posts: 330

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    cheers guys

  5. #5
    Join Date: Apr 2008

    Location: Cheltenham U.K

    Posts: 412
    I'm John.

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    Very nice work Richard! Where did you get the boards and metalwork from?

  6. #6
    Join Date: Sep 2008

    Location: Hampshire

    Posts: 330

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    Thanks John

    I bought the boards from Cvillers group buy on DIYA and ordered the sheet metal from an ebay company (www.forwardmetals.co.uk) They roughly cut it to size and I filed and drilled to suit. They were excellent to deal with and surprising cheap.

    Have you started tinkering with the LDRs?

  7. #7
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: http://www.homehifi.co.uk

    Posts: 6,288

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    Nice work, but a couple of very important observations from a product designer ( me ) might not go amiss I hope .

    1. Don't twist the Left and Right signal wires from the PHONO input sockets like that. This type of process is used in CAT5 etc to cut noise and extend upper bandwidth. It also has a filtering effect on low frequencies. On top of that, the way you did it you could get added crosstalk problems.
    My suggestion is to used individually screened wires from the connectors to the Left and Right PCB. I suggest getting an old stereo pair or phono leads. Cut off the connectors, and use the lead to connect from the input sockets to the PCB. . Don't forget to solder the screen (ground) wires on the lead to the case at one end, and an earth terminal on each PCB.

    2. The output signal wires to the speaker connectors also need changing. Again, don't twist them the way you did. Use individual lengths of speaker cable wires to go from PCB to speaker connector. Those connections from the PCB to the speaker sockets can carry high currents. The wires you use are telephone wires that handle far less current.

    I hope I have not upset you by making some critical comments . Feel free to ignore them of course.

  8. #8
    Join Date: Sep 2008

    Location: Hampshire

    Posts: 330

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    Quote Originally Posted by StanleyB View Post
    Nice work, but a couple of very important observations from a product designer ( me ) might not go amiss I hope .

    I hope I have not upset you by making some critical comments . Feel free to ignore them of course.
    Hi Stanley

    Not a all, I am a relative noob at this

    I have just changed the speaker output to some silver coated 18ga cable, this will have a much higher rating. I'll have a look at the input later today.

  9. #9
    Join Date: Mar 2008

    Location: Galashiels

    Posts: 13,669
    I'm inthescottishmafia.

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    Great job Richard.How does it sound?

  10. #10
    Join Date: Sep 2008

    Location: Hampshire

    Posts: 330

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ali Tait View Post
    Great job Richard.How does it sound?
    Fab!

    I'm currently swapping out the input/output cables and will give it another go in a bit.

    The bass is amazing to honest, very low and well controlled. Its really shows a new side to the MLTLs

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