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Thread: Caiman passive output mod revealed

  1. #21
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: http://www.homehifi.co.uk

    Posts: 6,031


  2. #22
    Join Date: May 2008

    Location: Surrey

    Posts: 5,878
    I'm Rob.

    Default

    Thanks.
    Buy Bose...And get your parking validated!.

  3. #23
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: New Zealand

    Posts: 27

    Default Using Variable Outputs

    Quote Originally Posted by Puffin View Post
    It has occurred to me that you could use the variable output (cut the connectors) and then you could swap between the two?
    Puffin,

    Looking for clarity on your proposed variation to this mod that SB has documented in this thread.

    Can you describe how your idea of using the variable outputs would work in practice. i.e would you just cut the signal pin on the left and right Variable Output socket and solder in the bi-polar caps to those pins, and do you need to do anything to the other pin on each Variable Output socket, and/or do you need to turn the Volume Control to full, given you are proposing to use the Variable Outputs as though they were the Fixed Output sockets.

    Cheers
    Frizzup

  4. #24
    Join Date: Mar 2009

    Location: Sheffield, UK

    Posts: 1,309
    I'm Dave.

    Default

    I like the sound of this mod and it's along the lines of the valve buffered output mod I've recently been thinking about trying.

    If this passive output mod was applied and I didn't need the variable or headphone outputs, could I remove the opamp board all together?

    Also, are there any type of caps that should theoretically sound best in this application? Quite a few types have been mentioned.

    Thanks.
    Stereo System:
    Source: Win7 PC + hiFace EVO + TeddyEVO PSU - DAC: Beresford Bushmaster Mk II + DIY linear PSU - Amp: Icon Audio Stereo 20 SE - Speakers: Wharfedale Opus 3 - Cables: Mark Grant & Anticables - Misc: Belkin PF30 x4

    Surround System:
    Source: Panasonic DMP-BD80 Blu-Ray - Amp: Arcam AVR300 - Center Speaker: Wharfedale 10 CM - Rear Speakers: Eltax LR6.5 - Subs: Wharfedale SW250 x2

    In Progress:
    Lighter Note LDR attenuator

  5. #25
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: http://www.homehifi.co.uk

    Posts: 6,031

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by HighFidelityGuy View Post
    If this passive output mod was applied and I didn't need the variable or headphone outputs, could I remove the opamp board all together?
    Be the guinea pig and let us know .

  6. #26
    Join Date: May 2008

    Location: Surrey

    Posts: 5,878
    I'm Rob.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Frizzup View Post
    Puffin,

    Looking for clarity on your proposed variation to this mod that SB has documented in this thread.

    Can you describe how your idea of using the variable outputs would work in practice. i.e would you just cut the signal pin on the left and right Variable Output socket and solder in the bi-polar caps to those pins, and do you need to do anything to the other pin on each Variable Output socket, and/or do you need to turn the Volume Control to full, given you are proposing to use the Variable Outputs as though they were the Fixed Output sockets.

    Cheers
    Frizzup
    I like your user name you can have a bad hair day everyday!

    I will do it later today. I assume that it disables the variable output completely as I will be cutting the phono connection to the board.
    Buy Bose...And get your parking validated!.

  7. #27
    Join Date: May 2008

    Location: Surrey

    Posts: 5,878
    I'm Rob.

    Default

    I have looked inside at the PCB. on my 7510 there are 2 what look like jumpered holes in between the two ribbon cables. Do I remove the jumper on the right hand one (next to the right ribbon cable) and solder to each hole/pad/area or whatever that is left after removal of the jumper?

    OR do I use the other jumpered area near the left ribbon cable for L and the right for R channel?
    Buy Bose...And get your parking validated!.

  8. #28
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: http://www.homehifi.co.uk

    Posts: 6,031

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Puffin View Post
    I have looked inside at the PCB. on my 7510 there are 2 what look like jumpered holes in between the two ribbon cables. Do I remove the jumper on the right hand one (next to the right ribbon cable) and solder to each hole/pad/area or whatever that is left after removal of the jumper?

    OR do I use the other jumpered area near the left ribbon cable for L and the right for R channel?

  9. #29
    Join Date: May 2008

    Location: Surrey

    Posts: 5,878
    I'm Rob.

    Default

    Unfortunately I don't have my camera at present. I assumed you would know what I was talking about.

    I will have to see if there are any 7510 pcb pics on here or anywhere.
    Buy Bose...And get your parking validated!.

  10. #30
    Join Date: Mar 2009

    Location: Sheffield, UK

    Posts: 1,309
    I'm Dave.

    Default

    Does this show what you mean? :

    Stereo System:
    Source: Win7 PC + hiFace EVO + TeddyEVO PSU - DAC: Beresford Bushmaster Mk II + DIY linear PSU - Amp: Icon Audio Stereo 20 SE - Speakers: Wharfedale Opus 3 - Cables: Mark Grant & Anticables - Misc: Belkin PF30 x4

    Surround System:
    Source: Panasonic DMP-BD80 Blu-Ray - Amp: Arcam AVR300 - Center Speaker: Wharfedale 10 CM - Rear Speakers: Eltax LR6.5 - Subs: Wharfedale SW250 x2

    In Progress:
    Lighter Note LDR attenuator

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