Location: Yorks
Posts: 16,643
I'm Nobody.
I don't know about the QED, but for what it's worth over the past 3 years I've subjectively compared several optical cables. No silly A-B crap, I mean living with them in my system and getting intimate with the signatures. Overall there was not a lot of huge differences, but a couple (like some freebies) did sound "wrong". There was even a $30 one that didn't do it for me.
Overall I came to the opinion that glass core is better than polymer. Not to say that there's not a good polymer, I just wasn't willing to pay big money to find out.
But from what I have read the critical elements of optical are the connector plugs, the polishing, the vibration dampening, and the quality of the conductor itself. While not susceptible to EMI I hear that optical is more susceptible to breaking, crushing, vibration, and plug misalignment. I learned this after choosing my favorite one and that one happened to be glass fiber, had a plug that snapped in firmly with no jiggle, and the conductor is covered with some soft rubbery materials which I would guess is meant to absorb vibration? Maybe Mark Grant could break it down for us?
But all this rambling aside I bet that QED is probably pretty darn good for the price. But remember it wouldn't really be fair to compare a $30 optical to a $200 coax, which is what I think goes on a lot of times.
I've been thinking about some of those ones that I have that seem to have an ok construction but aren't quite up to it, what would happen if I tried to micro-polish the ends. Maybe the people making them just didn't take the extra 5 minutes to make them what they could have been? And if I ruin it, oh well it was a freebie anyways.
Something like this:
http://www.ehow.com/how_5016627_poli...tic-cable.html
James
Denon DCD-755AE (Power supply mods, used as a transport)
PS Audio Digital Link III (Power supply mods, Audiocom Superclock 4)
Tricorp TRV-35SE (V-Cap Teflon and Wima MKP10 caps)
KEF IQ5 (Bennic XPP caps and Jantzen MOX resistors)
Yamaha YST-SW225 subwoofer
Cables: Transparent Premium Powerlink, PS Audio xStream Prelude, Mark Grant DSP 2.5, Audioquest King Kobra, Audiotrak Glass Black
Yes they are!
Despite the over-hype'd immunity to RFI, the use of an optical link requires the addition of two electro-optical converters. Any additional series components, or process can only be a bad thing. It doesn't matter that it is still in the digital domain: these components are not perfect and can add artifacts of their own.
Best to use an electrical interface, and use a well constructed RF cable as an interconnect.
Regards
Barry
Location: Scotland
Posts: 1,940
I'm Tom.
I have heard very small differences between a co-ax and an AES connection, but never heard any differences between an optical and co-ax to be honest.
As I understand it, Andre is driving his power amp straight out of the XE-222S? I too am baffled where the need for digital output when he doesn't have a DAC at the moment, doesn't have a line level pre-amp and not keen to buy one either, so is Andre thinking way ahead and us Luddites not?
I have a Beresford TC-7510 which has two coax and two optical inputs.
This makes it easy to compare coax and optical cables as my Pioneer DV 565A DVD player (which I use mainly as a CD transport) has both coax and optical outputs which can be connected simultaneously.
I also have these Beresford-supplied cables. The first is coaxial, the second is optical
http://www.beresford.me/products/TRC-2222.html
http://www.beresford.me/products/TC-36182.html
On my modest system I can discern absolutely no difference between opical and coaxial, and they both sound mighty fine.
So to answer the question "Are optical outputs that bad?" IMHO absolutely not.
"The hi-fi fraternity is bizarre, full of dangerous amateurs" Tim de Paravicini Audio Magazine 1995
"Objective measurements in audio are primary, but they are useless unless they have been subjectively validated as predictors of musical accuracy Edgar Villchur Stereophile 2005
" What we cannot measure, we do not know" Lord Rayleigh
David
iTunes 7,PowerMac G4 733, Mac OS X 10.4.11, Airport Express, Beresford TC-7520 (Dual LM4562NAs) MLC5/6 clipped, 36K and 100nf cap mod, Behringer EP2000, Cambridge Soundworks Tower II
Location: Moved to frozen north, beyond Inverness
Posts: 2,602
I'm Dave.
James
I doubt whether messing around with the ends of fibre, or trying to do your own is going to be worth it, but this page - a link from your reference - http://www.lanshack.com/fiber-optic-...rmination.aspx - does suggest that cleaning with alcohol might be helpful.
Before connection and testing, it is advisable to clean connectors with lint-free wipes moistened with isopropyl alcohol.
Dave
James
Denon DCD-755AE (Power supply mods, used as a transport)
PS Audio Digital Link III (Power supply mods, Audiocom Superclock 4)
Tricorp TRV-35SE (V-Cap Teflon and Wima MKP10 caps)
KEF IQ5 (Bennic XPP caps and Jantzen MOX resistors)
Yamaha YST-SW225 subwoofer
Cables: Transparent Premium Powerlink, PS Audio xStream Prelude, Mark Grant DSP 2.5, Audioquest King Kobra, Audiotrak Glass Black
Location: South Coast of UK
Posts: 49
Guess he is using a power amp. so need some sort of volume control.
I have heard that it is best to avoid digital volume controls cos they work by reducing the bitstream.
If you are using the 'X222ES' that has a variable analogue output, why not feed that direct to the power amp?
If you don't like the sound, feed the digital out to a DAC with a built in pre-amp such as the Breresford DAC.
Job CF
West Sussex