Has anybody any experience of dealing with the removal of this white gunk.I think I read somewhere that back in the day it’s use was thought to be a protective measure .Is the removal a diy task...thanks Dee
Location: London UK
Posts: 167
I'm Dee.
Has anybody any experience of dealing with the removal of this white gunk.I think I read somewhere that back in the day it’s use was thought to be a protective measure .Is the removal a diy task...thanks Dee
Location: manchester
Posts: 216
I'm chris.
Where is the white gunk? Could you post a picture?
Location: London UK
Posts: 167
I'm Dee.
System... THORENS TD160 Super in Purpose built plinth.
SME 3009 S2 improved ,Van Den Hul hybrid interconnect and rewired by J7 at Audio Origami with Vdh silver wire.
ARKLESS 640P Phono amp..Currently using Denon Dl103
But have Denon dl110 HoMc cartridge....Shure v15 111. as reserves
YAMAHA Cr2020 receiver overhauled and upgraded by Select 45rpm
Denon dvd 3910(transport) Monarchy Audio M22C Dac..
Monarchy Audio Dip Classic
Tannoy Cheviot speakers ( cones and surround replaced by Lockwood)
TEAC X1000R r2r
Location: London UK
Posts: 167
I'm Dee.
Location: London/Durham
Posts: 6,887
I'm Lawrence.
Is the white gunk heatsink compound? In which case leave well alone as this ensures a good thermal connection between components and the heatsinks.
The "cracked" PCB looks too regular in shape to be damaged, is it not a separate section by design?
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Location: manchester
Posts: 216
I'm chris.
White gunk is as already said heatsink compound, this does not need to be removed.
Where you see the crack? This is the pcb for the receiver for the remote and supposed to be like that.
The one I've got here if I remember correctly replaced 4 resistors as they are underpowered and recapped it, again if I remember 3 out of 4 of the large psu caps measured well under spec
Location: manchester
Posts: 216
I'm chris.
R.e the original problem, I doubt that you would find an replacement volume pot that will fit properly. And it certainly doesn't need a new knob, this has no bearing on anything than making it easy to turn the shaft easily and to make things look nice.
What I would do first would be buy some deoxit D5 and try cleaning again. If you look at the side of the pot on the black square bits there are some access holes, aim the straw and spray the cleaner in there, rotate the pot fully 25 times then spray again rotate a further 10 times then leave to dry then try it out.
Location: London UK
Posts: 167
I'm Dee.
Hi Chris ...thanks for the input.Its been well over a year since I last tested the amp.Ill give your suggestion
a try and let you know how I get on.
Hi Chris! I was the guy that passed on my ailing E100 to you, exactly 12 months ago to the day! Hope you managed to make it well again. I was going to suggest Dee contact you for information regarding his amp, but unfortunately I'd forgotten your name
It's crap when your memory starts to fail, luckily I've had a lifetime to get used to that
I just dropped in, to see what condition my condition was in
T/T: Inspire Monarch, X200 tonearm, Ortofon Quintet Blue. Phono: Project Tube Box CD: Marantz CD6006 (UK Edition); Amp: Musical Fidelity A5 Integrated.
Speakers: Zu Omen Def, REL T9i subwoofer. Cables: Atlas Equator interconnects, Atlas Hyper 3.0 speaker cables
T'other system:
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A/V:
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Forget the past, it's gone. And don't worry about the future, it doesn't exist. There is only NOW.
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Location: manchester
Posts: 216
I'm chris.
Hi Steve,
Again thanks for the amp,
Yes I got it going, there was two under spec'd resistors in each channel which made the traces in that area of the board very brittle, luckily there was just enough pads/traces to anchor replacements to. Whilst the main board was out I recapped it with spares I had laying around, quite a few caps were out of spec and some of the big psu caps rattled when I removed them they were that dried out.
My memory isn't what it used to be either and find that I have to write things like this down to remember properly.