+ Reply to Thread
Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: Garrard 401 misbehaving - speeded up sounds like 45 at 33 setting - anyone seen this?

  1. #1
    Join Date: Feb 2010

    Location: Berkshire, UK

    Posts: 3,083
    I'm Tom.

    Default Garrard 401 misbehaving - speeded up sounds like 45 at 33 setting - anyone seen this?

    My Garrard 401 has suddenly started misbehaving, it's speeded up so that 33 sounds more like 45.

    The speed trim control does alter the speed, but it's nowhere near proper speed.

    Anyone seen this in a Garrard? I probably won't be able to fix it myself but would be useful to have an idea what's wrong with it.
    Main: Speakers 'RFC' Tannoy Canterburys / custom crossovers; Amp - Radford STA100; Pre EAR 912; Vinyl: Thorens TD124 MkII + Ikeda IT345-CR1 / Ikeda IT-407 tonearms; Cartridges Stereo - Miyajima Madake, Ortofon SPU Royal N, Ikeda 9C III, SAEC/Excel C3; Mono - Miyajimas - Zero 0.7, Premium 1.0, Sonovox MC-4 1.0, Edison '78' 4.0 conical, and Shure M44 strapped for mono with several Expert Stylus conicals for different eras of 78s; Phono stage and SUT from EAR 912; Esoteric Sound Re-Equalizer for equalisation of early mono and 78, switchable in from tape loop; Digital: Audio Note CDT2/II transport, heavily modded AN Kit DAC + Mutec MC3+USB.

    Study: Speakers - Tannoy DC6; Amp: Pass Aleph 'Mini'; preamp - Firebottle custom; Vinyl: Garrard 401 with AT1503 tonearm and vintage Ortofon SL-15e with matching Ortofon 2-15k SUT; Phono Stage: Firebottle Plus; Digital - Trichord Genesis III CDP + Arcam rBlink; Schiit Multibit DAC.

  2. #2
    Join Date: Aug 2008

    Location: Suffolk, UK

    Posts: 1,243
    I'm Paul.

    Default

    I suspect that either it has somehow become wired for 115v due to a short or that the motor pulley wheel is not engaging into the correct position. Not sure if the motor has dual 115v/230v wiring, but you just need to look underneath to check. To check the pulley wheel just take the platter off and change speed settings. You should see the pulley wheel rise and fall somthat the different size diameters contact the rubber of the idler wheel.
    ~Paul~

  3. #3
    Join Date: Feb 2010

    Location: Berkshire, UK

    Posts: 3,083
    I'm Tom.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Primalsea View Post
    I suspect that either it has somehow become wired for 115v due to a short or that the motor pulley wheel is not engaging into the correct position. Not sure if the motor has dual 115v/230v wiring, but you just need to look underneath to check. To check the pulley wheel just take the platter off and change speed settings. You should see the pulley wheel rise and fall somthat the different size diameters contact the rubber of the idler wheel.
    Thanks - I'll have a look at that tomorrow.
    Main: Speakers 'RFC' Tannoy Canterburys / custom crossovers; Amp - Radford STA100; Pre EAR 912; Vinyl: Thorens TD124 MkII + Ikeda IT345-CR1 / Ikeda IT-407 tonearms; Cartridges Stereo - Miyajima Madake, Ortofon SPU Royal N, Ikeda 9C III, SAEC/Excel C3; Mono - Miyajimas - Zero 0.7, Premium 1.0, Sonovox MC-4 1.0, Edison '78' 4.0 conical, and Shure M44 strapped for mono with several Expert Stylus conicals for different eras of 78s; Phono stage and SUT from EAR 912; Esoteric Sound Re-Equalizer for equalisation of early mono and 78, switchable in from tape loop; Digital: Audio Note CDT2/II transport, heavily modded AN Kit DAC + Mutec MC3+USB.

    Study: Speakers - Tannoy DC6; Amp: Pass Aleph 'Mini'; preamp - Firebottle custom; Vinyl: Garrard 401 with AT1503 tonearm and vintage Ortofon SL-15e with matching Ortofon 2-15k SUT; Phono Stage: Firebottle Plus; Digital - Trichord Genesis III CDP + Arcam rBlink; Schiit Multibit DAC.

  4. #4
    Join Date: Jan 2009

    Location: Essex

    Posts: 17,853
    I'm openingabottleofwine.

    Default

    Could be that the idler is partly engaging with the 45 rpm part of the stepped wheel. Just a guess - I have no recent and direct experience with 301/401s.

    I'm sure someone will be along shortly with some good advice for you.
    Have you listened to this month's choice in the Album Club?

    Barry

  5. #5
    Join Date: Jan 2009

    Location: Essex

    Posts: 17,853
    I'm openingabottleofwine.

    Default

    Ah - I see Paul has offered the same advice!
    Have you listened to this month's choice in the Album Club?

    Barry

  6. #6
    Join Date: Aug 2012

    Location: Hartlepool UK

    Posts: 1,364
    I'm Alan.

    Default

    Remove the platter and check the tightness of the bolts holding the motor up to the top plate, if the motor sags it can effect the position of the speed pulley
    Then check the tiny grub screws on the speed pulley and the magnetic speed brake disk, if these have moved out of vertical position it effects the speed
    With platter off press play and check how the idler wheel lines up with the speed pulley as Geoff says it could be just out of alignment, check it at each speed

    Whilst you are there clean the inside of the rim of the platter up to a bright polished finish and degrease with isopropanol
    Clean the idler wheel rubber , I use my R2R pinch roller cleaner.
    Oil the main bearing and a single spot of oil in the idler wheel bearing
    Check the mechanical linkage that changes the speed is lubricated with grease

    Alan
    Turntable - Garrard 401/Jelco 750L/Ortofon Kontrapunkt B, Pioneer PLC 590, SME 3009/2 , Denon DL103R - DIY Paradise Phono stage - Reel 2 Reel Studer A810, Otari MX55,Tascam BR20 - Digital HTPC / Young Dac - Preamp - DIY B4, 821, Power Amp's DIY Voyager Mono Block, Speakers Tannoy precision 6.4 / Wilmslow Kit Volt BM220.8 / Scanspeak D2905/9500

  7. #7
    Join Date: Jul 2009

    Location: Hampshire, UK

    Posts: 2,160
    I'm Buriedunderaloadofturntables.

    Default Garrard 401 misbehaving - speeded up sounds like 45 at 33 setting - anyone seen this?

    Itíll be something mechanical - most likely the positioning of the idler as mentioned.

    As the motor is synchronous, doubling the voyage to it will not make it run faster - itíll just go up in smoke!
    Adam.

  8. #8
    Join Date: Aug 2012

    Location: Hartlepool UK

    Posts: 1,364
    I'm Alan.

    Default

    Couple of pics


    garrard idler wheel shot by Alan Towell, on Flickr

    garrard speed cam by Alan Towell, on Flickr


    There are 3 rubber gromets that can also disintegrate and can upset the alignment in the photo above you can see them, one is bellow the word "and" in the black text, they are available on line
    http://www.peakhifi.co.uk/cgi-bin/ec...cts&db_scid=31

    Alan
    Turntable - Garrard 401/Jelco 750L/Ortofon Kontrapunkt B, Pioneer PLC 590, SME 3009/2 , Denon DL103R - DIY Paradise Phono stage - Reel 2 Reel Studer A810, Otari MX55,Tascam BR20 - Digital HTPC / Young Dac - Preamp - DIY B4, 821, Power Amp's DIY Voyager Mono Block, Speakers Tannoy precision 6.4 / Wilmslow Kit Volt BM220.8 / Scanspeak D2905/9500

  9. #9
    Join Date: Feb 2010

    Location: Berkshire, UK

    Posts: 3,083
    I'm Tom.

    Default

    Thanks for the input guys. I rolled my sleeves up after lunch to have a good look at this only to fix it in a few seconds.

    Last time I moved it it seemed I didn't unwind the transport screws far enough ... when I looked the pulley was just very slightly too high so at the 33 setting it was running right on the lip of 45 ... releasing allowed the pulley to rise fractionally and drop in to the 33 position.

    However it probably is time for a service, all I did when I got it was do the thrust pad/gasket/oil and lubricate a few linkages, it probably needs more attention so the above is really useful.

    I've always been cautious of going near the rubber on either the Garrard or the Thorens, what's the R2R roller cleaner and what does it do?
    Main: Speakers 'RFC' Tannoy Canterburys / custom crossovers; Amp - Radford STA100; Pre EAR 912; Vinyl: Thorens TD124 MkII + Ikeda IT345-CR1 / Ikeda IT-407 tonearms; Cartridges Stereo - Miyajima Madake, Ortofon SPU Royal N, Ikeda 9C III, SAEC/Excel C3; Mono - Miyajimas - Zero 0.7, Premium 1.0, Sonovox MC-4 1.0, Edison '78' 4.0 conical, and Shure M44 strapped for mono with several Expert Stylus conicals for different eras of 78s; Phono stage and SUT from EAR 912; Esoteric Sound Re-Equalizer for equalisation of early mono and 78, switchable in from tape loop; Digital: Audio Note CDT2/II transport, heavily modded AN Kit DAC + Mutec MC3+USB.

    Study: Speakers - Tannoy DC6; Amp: Pass Aleph 'Mini'; preamp - Firebottle custom; Vinyl: Garrard 401 with AT1503 tonearm and vintage Ortofon SL-15e with matching Ortofon 2-15k SUT; Phono Stage: Firebottle Plus; Digital - Trichord Genesis III CDP + Arcam rBlink; Schiit Multibit DAC.

  10. #10
    Join Date: Aug 2012

    Location: Hartlepool UK

    Posts: 1,364
    I'm Alan.

    Default

    The best thing to do is remove the transport frame altogether and shuv it in the draw

    Its not easy to get hold of the R2R rubber cleaner now but Platen clean & Martin Yale is good and is designed to clean the rollers in printers

    Alchohol can harden or soften the rubber to goo so best not used if you have nothing else use soap and water

    https://www.atmmarketplace.com/compa...-and-restorer/
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Martin-Ya...YAAOSw8RZaZPUO
    Alan
    Turntable - Garrard 401/Jelco 750L/Ortofon Kontrapunkt B, Pioneer PLC 590, SME 3009/2 , Denon DL103R - DIY Paradise Phono stage - Reel 2 Reel Studer A810, Otari MX55,Tascam BR20 - Digital HTPC / Young Dac - Preamp - DIY B4, 821, Power Amp's DIY Voyager Mono Block, Speakers Tannoy precision 6.4 / Wilmslow Kit Volt BM220.8 / Scanspeak D2905/9500

+ Reply to Thread



 

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •