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Thread: The Bug is back

  1. #11
    Join Date: Mar 2017

    Location: Liverpool

    Posts: 264
    I'm Sandro.

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    Today I had beans !
    sorry wrong tread

    Lets keep it fifi

    Today I got a drill

    WP_20180607_18_06_53_Pro.jpg

    Should be enough to drill any thing of any size
    Pretty quiet to



    sketch of fan controller

    l WP_20180607_18_15_36_Pro.jpg

    one may like the amplifiers to warm up pretty fast, no need to call home before hand to get GF, Wife or whatever to turn FiFi on and keep the temperature stable as the lauder one play the cooler the sinks get (up to a point)

    On sketch is just general Idea (may not work as drawn)

    There may be a few LED to put here and there say yellow cold, green You can now stop doing whatever you doing whit GF, Wife and such and listen to same music, Red for 2 hot fan failure and switching power off

  2. #12
    Join Date: Nov 2015

    Location: Wolverhampton

    Posts: 5,678
    I'm Oliver.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bksabath View Post
    Today I had beans !
    sorry wrong tread

    Lets keep it fifi

    Today I got a drill

    WP_20180607_18_06_53_Pro.jpg

    Should be enough to drill any thing of any size
    Pretty quiet to



    sketch of fan controller

    l WP_20180607_18_15_36_Pro.jpg

    one may like the amplifiers to warm up pretty fast, no need to call home before hand to get GF, Wife or whatever to turn FiFi on and keep the temperature stable as the lauder one play the cooler the sinks get (up to a point)

    On sketch is just general Idea (may not work as drawn)

    There may be a few LED to put here and there say yellow cold, green You can now stop doing whatever you doing whit GF, Wife and such and listen to same music, Red for 2 hot fan failure and switching power off
    Sandro, I love this thread. You're giving ME the bug lol
    Analogue: Technics SP10 MK2 > Phonomac AT-1010 MK5 tonearm > Ortofon Kontrapunkt b > Wizard Jfet MC Valve Phonostage (Telefunken Valves)
    Digital: Firebottle modded Xiang Sheng DAC (Telefunken Valve)
    Amplification: Nelson Pass DCB1 & Firebottle Monoblocks (Telefunken Valves) & Monarchy Audio SM-70 Class A Amplifier
    Cables: Fisual S-Flex Speaker Cable & SPOTFIRE IC Cables & NEW SPOTFIRE Tonearm cable
    Speakers: Pioneer CS-77A

  3. #13
    Join Date: Mar 2017

    Location: Liverpool

    Posts: 264
    I'm Sandro.

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    Empirical results

    the soldering Iron is putting out 40W of heat
    Moss thermistor and thermometer on the heat sink
    By adjusting the pot I can set the temperature at any where I like

    WP_20180607_22_23_14_Pro.jpgWP_20180607_22_23_29_Pro.jpgWP_20180607_22_23_40_Pro.jpg

    Snags
    1)Moss start conducting and the fans start to run at 3.17 V 40 C at 3.22 V before that fans stall, how bad is that for the motors ?

    use green led as on previous post to turn fans on simple!

    2) fans make noise (especially the ones I have on the bench)

    is it worth to spend money on the fans and complicate things when that money could be spent on bigger heat sinks ?

    not my decision .

    Still amazing how such a small heath sink can dissipate whit a bit of air flowing Yes?

  4. #14
    Join Date: Mar 2017

    Location: Liverpool

    Posts: 264
    I'm Sandro.

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    WP_20180608_13_41_20_Pro.jpg

    Amplimo relay's have landed

    they do not fit on boards but I was going to home brew same whit NTE710 or uPC1283 that I like very much

    Do you want to know more ? (could that movie get any worst?)
    https://www.halfgaar.net/dc-protection-with-relays

    PS white one is old stock I have, black one is new type same spec same foot print as confirmed by Amplimo

  5. #15
    Join Date: Mar 2017

    Location: Liverpool

    Posts: 264
    I'm Sandro.

    Default

    WP_20180610_09_59_16_Pro.jpgWP_20180610_09_58_51_Pro.jpgWP_20180610_10_01_09_Pro.jpg
    Those are same ideas on how to make things, more like finding 100 ways that do not work.

    I made small rig whit a couple of fans and I have a spare heat sink that is more or less the size we are going to get

    I have a few spare Mosfet so here is more or less the way they are going to be clamped on the sinks

    Kerafoll 82/83 is the best pad I know (apart from Diamond ) the efficiency increase whit the pressure, on the manufacturer spec sheet graph stops at 60 Nm CM2, in pints that is 6Kg centimetre square, there are going to be bars on top of each "transistor" each clamped whit M5 captive studs and bolts, it is much betrerer than the single M3 screw as that either strip the tread or snap

    Same basic about Mosfets as I understand them, they are like a tap that either sink or drain a tank, the higher the tank the higher the pressure (voltage) the wider the pipe the more current flow

    The Mosfet let more water flow if the voltage to the gate go up an over a certain point.
    This voltage is different for each type of Mosfet and has smaller variation between those dudes of the same type, it will also change whit the temperature of the mosfet.

    As we are going to use pairs of those dudes they must be matched as if one conduct more easily it will steal current from the other (source resistor take care of that in part) maybe a bit more clamping force on the strongest can make things even better?

    Mosfet cam in 2 type P and N one let a negative voltage flow one way the other a positive one, different type of those 2 basic flavors exist

    There is an area at which they work best this is dependent on dude temperature and current flow, get past a certain point and they will break, when they break the tap is fully open and this is not really horroshow for your speakers that will not only blow up but also give your " beloved" a further chance to say "Told you so" (that is why protection is always recommended especially if one have beloved)
    As Nelson Pass said over and over again 50C on the sinks is ideal whit a bias current at about 1.3 A on each

    Voltage on the rails is (Secondary AC x 1.471 Less drops due to the R in CRC) call it 35 V for now

    W = V X A = 35X1.3 45.5 Watt This is a lot to ask , will need to look at the Dudas case temperature and speck again, but based on this for now the sinks need to get rid of nearly 200 W of heat when music is off

    Class A bias
    the 2 flavors of Mosfet work against each other, Let 2.6 A flow in one pair and 2.6 A flow on the other, when the 2 current's meet in the middle we have 0 volts, all that current is going to contribute to global warming

    Put a bit of music on to twist the taps one way or the other, the taps have a more or less solid link in between and only move in the same direction and the voltage at the middle will go up and down and your speakers cones, that is if you have any of those (Jup here is another one), will go in and out (love the Burgess/Kubrick reference) and contribute to your and neighbours pleasure centres in many different ways.

  6. #16
    Join Date: Jan 2009

    Location: Essex

    Posts: 17,853
    I'm openingabottleofwine.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bksabath View Post

    Today I got a drill

    WP_20180607_18_06_53_Pro.jpg

    Should be enough to drill any thing of any size
    Pretty quiet too
    I'm looking for something like that. Who is the manufacturer, what is the model number and how much do they cost?

    Thanks
    Have you listened to this month's choice in the Album Club?

    Barry

  7. #17
    Join Date: Mar 2010

    Location: Sheffield

    Posts: 2,591
    I'm Simon.

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    Forced air cooling, you're crazy. I love that.
    Kuzma Stabi/S 12", (LP12-bastard) DC motor and optical tacho psu, Benz LP, Paradise (phonostage). MB-Pro, Brooklyn dac and psu, Bruno Putzeys balanced pre, mod86p dual mono amps, Yamaha NS1000m

  8. #18
    Join Date: Mar 2017

    Location: Liverpool

    Posts: 264
    I'm Sandro.

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    Hi Barry
    It is Axminster they make same very nice drills I was looking at the micro milling machine as well and they do same super duper micro drills ideal for PCB
    I got that one because it could take big pieces.
    Drill https://www.axminster.co.uk/axminste...l-drill-101928
    On my wish list https://www.axminster.co.uk/axminste...ro-mill-505098

    As things go the drill quality is pretty good but still made in china (blue and green machines are much better IMO)

    Hi Simon
    You know me and know that I take that as a compliment, crazier still my the F5 that I am using at present have 300 X 80 X400

    Forced air cooling has same advantages 1) amplifiers go up to temperature faster 2) sink can be smaller or bias can be higher

    We are looking at same heat sinks not from Modushoop IMO those are way to small and , most important, the base plate to which the sink are attached is not thick enough.

    The 50 W turbo may not need it (it is going to be partnered to same unusual speakers, 92 dB 4 Homs 18 transducers this is all I tell you for now), the 100 W may do as sinks will be in the middle most likely and having it going hot faster is one of the things Martin was asking for

    Paul and Martin where here today to talk about the shopping list, things are going to be on hold for a couple of weeks as big money is going to be spent on the Traffos

    For the F6, I will start that when F5 T are completed, forced cooling will have to be a necessity as , and it break my hart, that copper heat sink will need to be cut in half as I only have one

  9. #19
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: Southall, West London

    Posts: 35,720
    I'm Geoff.

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    I bought a cross slide vice to go with my drill. It allows me to do some basic milling. My vertical angle vice is handy too.

  10. #20
    Join Date: Mar 2017

    Location: Liverpool

    Posts: 264
    I'm Sandro.

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    Got prices for heat sinks

    35.26 each for 8 units
    http://www.abl-heatsinks.co.uk/index...uct&product=20

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