Audiolab 8000 amp - Webby is this like yours?

[DSJR]

Thanks Stan. Apologies if i misled anyone, but the S/PX units did have changes and measured differently too I understand.

[webby]

I have the 8000S.

[webby]

It's not an S, cos an S has way more inputs in the back. This looks like a power amp.

[leo]

I'd imagine the S is totally different again only one I've been in was the 8000A years ago.

[leo]

So something like a BB2604 could be better here than an LME49720?

Or maybe OPA2132, if its for your cdp you may only get a marginal difference, normally with the amps it makes more of a noticeable difference.

[ootg]

Happen to stumble on this thread. Wow! I have the exact same amp as in the photo, circa 1990. I think the capacitors are starting to act up, so I am thinking of doing the mod.

Also saw this post in another forum:

I've just moded my Audiolab 8000P, want to share with all 8000P user.

Modification has been done:

1) Change all the e-cap 100uf or below to Blackgate

2) Change 4 x 10000uf Nichicon Big tank to 4 x Jensen 15000uf

3) Change the default power supply 4A fuse to Furutech Green colour golden end fuse

After changed those parts, already a very great improvment althought those cap still take time run in (e.g. 100+ hrs). Sound is more musical, warm, powerful and clear now.

Problem need to be solved and looking for advice:

1) At the back side of OPA134P (No. C201 on the board), there is a very tiny yellow colour cap connected between 2 pin (No.4 & 7 from data sheet) under the OPA, don't know what it is used for? If I change IC socket, still need to put this tiny cap under it? Please see attached photo and data sheet of OPA134. What kind of improvement can be done if I change the OPA to 627BP?

http://docs-asia.electrocomponents.c...6b800289f5.pdf

2) What kind of improvement can be done if change the default diode to Schotty diodle?

Existing diodle on the board:
a) A1668 -80(3 legs) x 4
b) A1477 -4B(3 legs) x 2
c) C3787 -7C(3 legs) x 2
4) 1N4002 x 4

Anyone can recommend which diole need to be change and can be replaced by which model in Hong Kong Farnell web?. http://hk.farnell.com/

3) Thare are 2 made in China relay on board (black colour) 10A (250V AC/ 24V DC), anyone recommend to change it?

Thanks a lot

What do you guys think? Appreciate your input. Thanks!

[UV101]

Happen to stumble on this thread. Wow! I have the exact same amp as in the photo, circa 1990. I think the capacitors are starting to act up, so I am thinking of doing the mod.

Also saw this post in another forum:

I've just moded my Audiolab 8000P, want to share with all 8000P user.

Modification has been done:

1) Change all the e-cap 100uf or below to Blackgate

2) Change 4 x 10000uf Nichicon Big tank to 4 x Jensen 15000uf

3) Change the default power supply 4A fuse to Furutech Green colour golden end fuse

After changed those parts, already a very great improvment althought those cap still take time run in (e.g. 100+ hrs). Sound is more musical, warm, powerful and clear now.

Problem need to be solved and looking for advice:

1) At the back side of OPA134P (No. C201 on the board), there is a very tiny yellow colour cap connected between 2 pin (No.4 & 7 from data sheet) under the OPA, don't know what it is used for? If I change IC socket, still need to put this tiny cap under it? Please see attached photo and data sheet of OPA134. What kind of improvement can be done if I change the OPA to 627BP?

http://docs-asia.electrocomponents.c...6b800289f5.pdf

The cap is to decouple the supply. Personally if you have access to Blackgates, I'd put one accross the supply pins as close to the opamp as possible. (4- & 7+)failing that, i'd try another low esr cap of your choice (Rubycon ZA, Elna SIlmic, Cerefine etc). I'd also try some better opamps like LME49710's or similar. Lee mentioned using this type of opamp in a previous post

2) What kind of improvement can be done if change the default diode to Schotty diodle?

Existing diodle on the board:
a) A1668 -80(3 legs) x 4
b) A1477 -4B(3 legs) x 2
c) C3787 -7C(3 legs) x 2
4) 1N4002 x 4

Anyone can recommend which diole need to be change and can be replaced by which model in Hong Kong Farnell web?. http://hk.farnell.com/

3) Thare are 2 made in China relay on board (black colour) 10A (250V AC/ 24V DC), anyone recommend to change it?

Thanks a lot

What do you guys think? Appreciate your input. Thanks!

So far as diodes go, i'd try something like MUR860 or if you want to ensure high current MBR16100 (thats what I use with my discrete centre channel amp)

All in all, those big smoother caps should be giving you much more controlled tight bass and the use of BG's elsewhere should give a nice warm detailed presence. As with all cap changes, its a matter of taste but other than price, I don't think you can go wrong with those cap choices (IMHO)

[haimsadia]

I have the Audiolab 8000p, and would like to troubleshoot it.

At the moment one channel is dead.
I checked the power supply and it is indeed getting power. The output stage transistors are definitely off as the heatsinks are dead cold even after 10 min of operation and the obvious one channel operation.

This being my first time doing such a thing i wanted to ask for a few tips as to where to start with the fault finding process...

Cheers,

[audioquiz]

it's definetly an early 8000p

[audioquiz]

more info on this audiolab 8000p would be great