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Thread: Whats the point of speaker stands?

  1. #41
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: Staffordshire, England

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    I'm Martin.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jandl100 View Post
    Here's a thought - I wonder if a lot (most/all?) of the improvements reported from using speaker spikes is just that the speaker has been raised and there is an air gap between speaker and floor. Nothing to do with spikiness at all.
    Almost certainly. I used some dice to raise a floorstander up off the carpet once, it was a change of sound and an improvement. All the coupling/decoupling business with spikes is classic bullshit baffles brains.
    Martin



    Current Lash Up:

    Technics SL1200P CD Player * NVA P90SA passive pre / Krell KSA50S Power amp * JM Lab Electra 926 loudspeakers *



    'The best I advice I ever received was to always remember that no-one else has any idea what they are doing either.'

  2. #42
    Join Date: Jan 2013

    Location: Birmingham

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    I'm James.

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    The design of my speakers is such that the thin unbraced cabinet walls flex rather a lot more than modern speakers and are therefore massively affected by what they stand on. I have tried numerous stands and different materials and they all have a large influence on how the speaker performs especially in the bass region.

  3. #43
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: Staffordshire, England

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    I'm Martin.

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    I'll confess to there being a difference between pillar stands and open frame types. But not speaker dependant for me, I always prefer the open frame type. Or 3 legged stools which is the same idea. Too much mass in the stand you can get thuddy bass. Although some prefer that, especially with bass-light speakers.
    Martin



    Current Lash Up:

    Technics SL1200P CD Player * NVA P90SA passive pre / Krell KSA50S Power amp * JM Lab Electra 926 loudspeakers *



    'The best I advice I ever received was to always remember that no-one else has any idea what they are doing either.'

  4. #44
    Join Date: Nov 2011

    Location: Newcastle UK

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    I'm Rich.

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    As with so much else in this hobby, good quality materials and construction is worth paying for, the rest bollocks.

    Use your wooden shelfs etc as long as they get the speakers to the right level and don't vibrate other sensitive components like turntables.
    One of these days... I'm going to cut you into little pieces.

  5. #45
    Join Date: Mar 2016

    Location: Brighton, UK.

    Posts: 466
    I'm Mike.

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    What about wall mounted for suitable speakers, such as my recent purchase the Spendor S3/5R? Infinite stability for sure?
    Current system. TT - NAS Interspace, Jelco 750, Goldring 2200/Denon 110/Ortofon Blue, Nakamichi CA-5 (as phono stage). Streaming - Pioneer N-50K. CD Player - Pioneer PD 8700. Ruark Talisman II.

  6. #46
    Join Date: Mar 2017

    Location: Seaford UK

    Posts: 642
    I'm Dennis.

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    I think it is agreed that spikes will stabilise greatly, but that their other properties are less desirable.

    I didn't read the article, but it seems that they are applying the conservation of momentum law; mass times velocity, but the velocities of the cones and domes are varied, depending on frequency and amplitude.

    I suppose a step waveform is the best tool to use for measuring the reaction of the speaker box, but friction seems an irrelevant factor because most probably a speaker would tend to rock its stand rather than slide.

    The 5kg ignores the other mass factors in a speaker, the woofer's basket/magnet, other driver masses, bracing, damping, stuffing and Xover masses, and a 10" woofer is far more likely IMO to have a large cabinet.

  7. #47
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: Staffordshire, England

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    I'm Martin.

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    I'm using some JM Labs speakers right now. They weight 28 kilos each and are quite tall. On the base are four rubber feet. They also come with spikes that screw into sockets in the middle of the rubber feet.

    So the idea is that if you have a wooden/laminate floor you don't fit the spikes, so as not to damage the floor, but if you have carpet you fit the spikes to pierce through the carpet and 'couple' with the floorboards or concrete beneath.

    But if you have carpet plus underlay (not just a rug) under the speakers is it not best to let them just sit on that, on the rubber feet? This way they are decoupled at least to a degree, from putting vibration into the floor. With the spikes you deliberately connect with the floor and so increase the amount of vibration transferred. Even a concrete slab will transmit vibration. Worse for wood. So the provision of spikes for carpeted floors makes no sense. Hence spikes make no sense. They are just a sub-optimal way of getting, as Jerry puts it, a 'bit of air' under the speaker. Which I agree is a good thing.
    Martin



    Current Lash Up:

    Technics SL1200P CD Player * NVA P90SA passive pre / Krell KSA50S Power amp * JM Lab Electra 926 loudspeakers *



    'The best I advice I ever received was to always remember that no-one else has any idea what they are doing either.'

  8. #48
    Join Date: Mar 2017

    Location: Seaford UK

    Posts: 642
    I'm Dennis.

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    My heavy ESSs had polythene feet on their base, and my 54kg ADAM Gammas had spikes. The replacement Betas had spikes according to the manual but came without them, but they have 8mm tapped holes in the base for them.

    I looked on Ebay and found some 30mm DIA, feet, with a PVC pad going into a stainless steel dome base with 8mm studs for fixing. These I hope will slide across the carpet, and provide a good compromise solution to the rocking and transmission problems.

  9. #49
    Join Date: Mar 2016

    Location: Brighton, UK.

    Posts: 466
    I'm Mike.

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    Thanks to all replies, the Spendors are too small for my listening room. So gonna concentrate on getting the Talisman right. The Ruarks are great speakers and are better with my HK amp, so will try some new speaker cable, marble plinths underneath, as Marco said upthread, get the basics right, Cheers.
    Current system. TT - NAS Interspace, Jelco 750, Goldring 2200/Denon 110/Ortofon Blue, Nakamichi CA-5 (as phono stage). Streaming - Pioneer N-50K. CD Player - Pioneer PD 8700. Ruark Talisman II.

  10. #50
    Join Date: Dec 2008

    Location: Lincolnshire, Home by the Sea

    Posts: 3,970
    I'm Shaun.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pharos View Post
    It used to be argued in the 80s that standmounts were visually less imposing, and that may be subjectively so, but the stand is still visually there, and costs money, and the space it occupies is useless whereas a floorstander uses this for greater bass extension. Unless there are acoustic advantages to a standmounter I see no point in them.
    Yes a floorstander uses this extra cabinet space for a lower bottom end but try using a floorstander with a rear firing port within twelve inches of a rear wall and it becomes obvious why stand mounts exist. Even larger standmounts won't sound very good when close to a rear wall.
    CAMBRIDGE AUDIO CXC CD TRANSPORT INTO AUDIOLAB M-DAC - PRIMA LUNA PROLOGUE THREE PREAMP - PRIMA LUNA DIALOGUE PREMIUM POWER AMP - SPENDOR S3/5R2 LOUDSPEAKERS - ATLAS HYPER INTERCONNECTS - TELLURIUM Q BLUE LOUDSPEAKER CABLES - ATACAMA STANDS - PRO-JECT SUPPORT PLINTH

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