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Thread: suggested finish for mahogany plinth

  1. #21
    Join Date: Oct 2016

    Location: Bolton, England

    Posts: 926
    I'm Andrew.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Svend N View Post
    Another great polishing agent is Rottenstone, which sounds repulsive, but actually works great. It is extremely fine pumice-type material. Use it with a light oil for final polishing -- works exceedingly well.
    Yes, I've used fine pumice as an abrasive for french polishing - I agree it's good stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by Svend N View Post
    As for wax, have you tried a fine furniture-grade beeswax? I find that it cures to a very dry, hard finish, not at all sticky or tacky. I use a product from the UK -- can't recall the brand but can look for you if you like.
    The only wax I've had much experience with was beeswax. Perhaps I should persevere with it and find out how to get the best from it.

  2. #22
    Join Date: Feb 2013

    Location: W Lothian

    Posts: 40,938
    I'm Grant.

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    Nathan "nuff" did a heybrook in solid wood and then danished it... looked a million dollars.. he might still have pics of it and info on how he applied it
    Regards,
    Grant ....

    I've said it before and I'll say it again: democracy simply-doesn't-work
    .... ..... ...... ...... ................... ..... ..... ..... ..... .....
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  3. #23
    Join Date: Dec 2014

    Location: Surrey, UK

    Posts: 240
    I'm Phil.

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    Quote Originally Posted by struth View Post
    Nathan "nuff" did a heybrook in solid wood and then danished it... looked a million dollars.. he might still have pics of it and info on how he applied it
    I remeber seeing that, Grant. It did look great. I've gone back to try and find it and the pictures are no longer there. Curse you PhotoBucket!

  4. #24
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: Southall, West London

    Posts: 32,042
    I'm Geoff.

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    Quote Originally Posted by struth View Post
    our geoff uses satin a lot and this is kinda how it looks



    stays light and fairly flat
    I also did these KEFs with Rustins Satin Varnish, followed by a waxing.


  5. #25
    Join Date: Oct 2017

    Location: Ontario, Canada

    Posts: 296
    I'm Svend.

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    Andrew -- perhaps it depends what the wax is being applied over? If a partially-cured oil finish, or say, lemon oil which never seems to cure, or a silicone furniture "polish" (vile stuff), then I could see beeswax causing problems. But it should be fine over lacquer, varnish, shellac, or fully cured Danish oil. Worth looking into...

    Phil -- we want pictures! Do post some before and after pics and show us how it turns out.

    BTW, if you go with oil, then you should probably buff out the first coat after its cured to remove any wood hairs and such. Wait a day to cure, then use 0000 steel wool.

    Good luck with this! Sounds like a great project.

  6. #26
    Join Date: Dec 2014

    Location: Surrey, UK

    Posts: 240
    I'm Phil.

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    Quote Originally Posted by walpurgis View Post
    I also did these KEFs with Rustins Satin Varnish, followed by a waxing.

    They look great but i'm terrified of using varnish and leaving brush marks everywhere. I feel my skill level is much better suited to a cloth application!

  7. #27
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: Southall, West London

    Posts: 32,042
    I'm Geoff.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MarginWalker View Post
    They look great but i'm terrified of using varnish and leaving brush marks everywhere
    I don't use a brush. It's water based varnish and I apply it with a pad of damp household wipes. Very easy and no streaks. A little practise on spare wood will work wonders too.

  8. #28
    Join Date: Oct 2017

    Location: Ontario, Canada

    Posts: 296
    I'm Svend.

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    Quote Originally Posted by walpurgis View Post
    I don't use a brush. It's water based varnish and I apply it with a pad of damp household wipes. Very easy and no streaks. A little practise on spare wood will work wonders too.
    Interesting option -- do you have any issues with it raising the grain, being water based? Needs sanding between coats?

  9. #29
    Join Date: Feb 2013

    Location: W Lothian

    Posts: 40,938
    I'm Grant.

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    yeah i use a cotton filled swab for lots of these jobs like shellac. fill a lint free cloth with cotton wool and it loads up liquid in the cotton and squeeze gently as you apply. its the right way actually and using the pad of wipes is very similar, although not tried it... but will now
    Regards,
    Grant ....

    I've said it before and I'll say it again: democracy simply-doesn't-work
    .... ..... ...... ...... ................... ..... ..... ..... ..... .....
    OPPO BDP-103D DARBEE - JBE SERIES 3/M55 SAS/EMOTIVA XPS1 - TWIN PRO MONOBLOCK AMPLIFIERS - XIANG SHENG DAC\PRE\HEADPHONE AMP - TWIN AVANTREE OASIS CLASS 1 BLUETOOTHS - AUDIO TECHNICA ATH-MSR7 & OPPO PM-3 PLANAR HEADPHONES - WIN10 JRIVER23, DEEZER HiFi - ECHO DOT - SMSL M6 MINIDAC - RPI/AUDIOPHONICS - FULL RANGE TWIN TELEFUNKEN/Q ACOUSTIC BT3/CANTON SUB - P.INSPIRED MAINS REGENERATED.

  10. #30
    Join Date: Feb 2013

    Location: W Lothian

    Posts: 40,938
    I'm Grant.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Svend N View Post
    Interesting option -- do you have any issues with it raising the grain, being water based? Needs sanding between coats?
    i raise it with water and let it dry. then use old fine paper to just get the rise off and no more. it then shouldnt rise again much
    Regards,
    Grant ....

    I've said it before and I'll say it again: democracy simply-doesn't-work
    .... ..... ...... ...... ................... ..... ..... ..... ..... .....
    OPPO BDP-103D DARBEE - JBE SERIES 3/M55 SAS/EMOTIVA XPS1 - TWIN PRO MONOBLOCK AMPLIFIERS - XIANG SHENG DAC\PRE\HEADPHONE AMP - TWIN AVANTREE OASIS CLASS 1 BLUETOOTHS - AUDIO TECHNICA ATH-MSR7 & OPPO PM-3 PLANAR HEADPHONES - WIN10 JRIVER23, DEEZER HiFi - ECHO DOT - SMSL M6 MINIDAC - RPI/AUDIOPHONICS - FULL RANGE TWIN TELEFUNKEN/Q ACOUSTIC BT3/CANTON SUB - P.INSPIRED MAINS REGENERATED.

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