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Thread: refinishing walnut veneer speakers

  1. #1
    Join Date: Aug 2012

    Location: Grantham

    Posts: 234
    I'm Philip.

    Default refinishing walnut veneer speakers

    Hi,

    I need to refinish some old speakers.
    They have american walnut veneer that has scratches and scruffs.

    I am going to lightly rub down with fine and ultrafine scotch brite pad.

    Is finishing them with danish oil a good idea?
    Anything i should be wary of?
    Or alternative reccomendations or reccomendations for a particular make of oil?
    Has to be simple to do!

    Thanks.

  2. #2
    Join Date: Apr 2015

    Location: Southampton, United Kingdom

    Posts: 423
    I'm Paul.

    Default

    I've used Danish oil three times on three sets of speakers and the results have been excellent.
    I heartily recommend it .. plus it's got an amazing smell so prepare to feel nicely mellow after a session
    Linn Sondek LP12, Ittok, Linn Asak > Musical Fidelity XLPS v3 Phono Stage
    Sony CDP-XE520 CD Player > SMSL Sanskrit DAC
    Pure DAB tuner
    Tisbury Mk.1 pre-amp > 2 x Meridian 205 monoblock power amps > Linn Kan mk.ii speakers on Kan stands and I'm about to do a handstand
    Grado SR80 headphones

    www.paulridgeblog.com

  3. #3
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: Southall, West London

    Posts: 32,217
    I'm Geoff.

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    I have mentioned before. Some veneer is applied using plastic/rubber based adhesives and oils are solvents to these. There is potential for veneer to start lifting off.

  4. #4
    Join Date: Feb 2013

    Location: W Lothian

    Posts: 41,149
    I'm Grant.

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    i prefer a couple of coats of shellac and then waxed
    Regards,
    Grant ....

    I've said it before and I'll say it again: democracy simply-doesn't-work
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  5. #5
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: Southall, West London

    Posts: 32,217
    I'm Geoff.

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    Quote Originally Posted by struth View Post
    i prefer a couple of coats of shellac and then waxed
    Rustins water based satin varnish, followed by wax is what I use every time. My veneering looks like factory finish.

  6. #6
    Join Date: Oct 2016

    Location: Bolton, England

    Posts: 933
    I'm Andrew.

    Default

    Preparing the surface is the hard part. Your options are to try to remove all traces of the original finish or to just key the surface and smooth out any scratches. Obviously, the second option is the easiest. If you choose the second option a wipe of Danish oil might be sufficient, or the Danish oil may leave the scratches easily visible.
    If you choose the first option you are faced with either sanding off the original finish or removing it with a chemical stripper. Sanding could go horribly wrong if you sand through the veneer. Chemical stripping is messy and I don't much like it, though you might be made of sterner stuff than me.
    Some pictures of the cabinets might be useful.

  7. #7
    Join Date: Feb 2013

    Location: W Lothian

    Posts: 41,149
    I'm Grant.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by walpurgis View Post
    Rustins water based satin varnish, followed by wax is what I use every time. My veneering looks like factory finish.
    yes ive used that too. pretty similar solution to the problem of dissolving adhesives
    Regards,
    Grant ....

    I've said it before and I'll say it again: democracy simply-doesn't-work
    .... ..... ...... ...... ................... ..... ..... ..... ..... .....
    OPPO BDP-103D DARBEE - JBE SERIES 3/M55 SAS/EMOTIVA XPS1 - TWIN PRO MONOBLOCK AMPLIFIERS - XIANG SHENG DAC\PRE\HEADPHONE AMP - TWIN AVANTREE OASIS CLASS 1 BLUETOOTHS - AUDIO TECHNICA ATH-MSR7 & OPPO PM-3 PLANAR HEADPHONES - WIN10 JRIVER23, DEEZER HiFi - ECHO DOT - SMSL M6 MINIDAC - RPI/AUDIOPHONICS - FULL RANGE TWIN TELEFUNKEN/Q ACOUSTIC BT3/CANTON SUB - P.INSPIRED MAINS REGENERATED.

  8. #8
    Join Date: Oct 2016

    Location: Bolton, England

    Posts: 933
    I'm Andrew.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by walpurgis View Post
    Rustins water based satin varnish, followed by wax is what I use every time. My veneering looks like factory finish.
    Starting with a nice, clean, untreated surface is one thing - starting with a finished surface which scratched or partially sanded is something else.

  9. #9
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: Southall, West London

    Posts: 32,217
    I'm Geoff.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RothwellAudio View Post
    Starting with a nice, clean, untreated surface is one thing - starting with a finished surface which scratched or partially sanded is something else.
    My Tannoys and KEFs were marked and chipped when I got them. They look mint now. Just a sanding and repair of dings, followed by the previously mentioned finish had them like new. Mind you, I'm good at this, I used to restore furniture.

  10. #10
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: Southall, West London

    Posts: 32,217
    I'm Geoff.

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    Here's the finish I got on the KEFs.


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