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Thread: refinishing walnut veneer speakers

  1. #41
    Join Date: Aug 2012

    Location: Eton wick

    Posts: 1,677
    I'm Philip.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ianlenco View Post
    I restored a pair of Rogers LS3/5a cabinets a while back.
    Before:



    After:



    Magic ingredients? 50/50 mixture of olive oil and vinegar Works a treat on surface scratches. No need for extra virgin oil but white wine vinegar is a good idea

    Smells a bit for a while. Use the leftovers to dress a salad.
    How does that work/remove scratches?
    Very impressive.

  2. #42
    Join Date: May 2016

    Location: Gloucestershire

    Posts: 977
    I'm Ian.

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    Don't know, I found the method on the web under general furniture restoring. Work it definitely does though. No need for abrasives either.

  3. #43
    RothwellAudio Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by philv View Post
    How does that work/remove scratches?
    The scratched parts expose bare (or raw/untreated/unfinished) wood whereas the unscratched parts are finished wood. The olive oil darkens the scratches to blend in with the rest. Water would give a similar effect but the effect would disappear when the water evaporated. The oil gives it a permanent "wet" look.
    This method is simple and can be very effective, particularly if the wood hasn't been coloured or stained in any way. It wouldn't work on, for example, beech that has been heavily stained to look very dark.

  4. #44
    Join Date: Mar 2017

    Location: West Sūţsēaxe

    Posts: 2,015
    I'm Edward.

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    I have a pair of Kef Corellis (Like Geoffs) the wood of which I now want to restore. Will, based on this thread, use some Rustins clear satin varnish and then finish off with some Fiddes clear wax. But a few quick questions if I may? What type of prep sanding should I go for? Paul at RFC suggests 240 grit sandpaper but I see in this thread Scotchbrights being used. Also the speakers have some minor dings to the edges (not serious but would be great to fix). What is an easy fix please? Also on one corner the wood has gapped a bit (0.5 mm), can I simply use some clear wood filler?

    cheers!
    Current: [P20] Roon/Tidal > Custom PC> Chevron Paradox NDF16 > Phast Pre > Neuro. 686 > Tannoy Berkley (RFC tweaks)


  5. #45
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: N E Kent

    Posts: 51,624
    I'm Geoff.

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    Dings, gaps and chips can be fixed with Rustins Wood Filler. Use the teak coloured type. Like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RUSTINS-TE...4AAOSwwN5Zgd9c

    It's what I use and it works well. Apply very sparingly, so you don't have to rub down too much. Better to do it carefully a few times than rub through the thin veneer.

    Minor adjustment of colour can be achieved with furniture touch-up pens like these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SCRATCH-D...eA7iTCC8xBlgXg

    Again, apply very, very sparingly. It's a permanent marker and colours quickly.

    Do all the above before applying varnish.

  6. #46
    Join Date: Mar 2017

    Location: West Sūţsēaxe

    Posts: 2,015
    I'm Edward.

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    Quote Originally Posted by walpurgis View Post
    Dings, gaps and chips can be fixed with Rustins Wood Filler. Use the teak coloured type. Like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RUSTINS-TE...4AAOSwwN5Zgd9c

    It's what I use and it works well. Apply very sparingly, so you don't have to rub down too much. Better to do it carefully a few times than rub through the thin veneer.

    Minor adjustment of colour can be achieved with furniture touch-up pens like these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SCRATCH-D...eA7iTCC8xBlgXg

    Again, apply very, very sparingly. It's a permanent marker and colours quickly.

    Do all the above before applying varnish.
    Cheers Geoff. Looks good. Any tips on getting a super straight edge? Or will the light rub get me there? (no sniggering in the back row now!)
    Current: [P20] Roon/Tidal > Custom PC> Chevron Paradox NDF16 > Phast Pre > Neuro. 686 > Tannoy Berkley (RFC tweaks)


  7. #47
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: N E Kent

    Posts: 51,624
    I'm Geoff.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Edwardlon View Post
    Or will the light rub get me there?
    Yes, just take your time and be patient and it will all be fine.

  8. #48
    Join Date: Mar 2017

    Location: West Sūţsēaxe

    Posts: 2,015
    I'm Edward.

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    Sorry to be a bore Geoff but what do you suggest I use for rubbing? 240 grit paper or Scotchbrights or something else?
    Current: [P20] Roon/Tidal > Custom PC> Chevron Paradox NDF16 > Phast Pre > Neuro. 686 > Tannoy Berkley (RFC tweaks)


  9. #49
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: N E Kent

    Posts: 51,624
    I'm Geoff.

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    Stick with paper. 240 grit or slightly coarser. Use 240 for finishing. If you rub the filler down in plane with each cabinet face, you'll find you have sharp edges in the filler where it meets cabinet edges. Rub the sharpness down so the filler matches adjacent veneer edges.

  10. #50
    Join Date: Feb 2013

    Location: W Lothian

    Posts: 99,005
    I'm Grant.

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    i used to use a trowel over the corner so u get a nice flush front and side, or use a piece of wood.
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