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Thread: How Far Up Do You Go ?

  1. #21
    Join Date: Jan 2009

    Location: Essex

    Posts: 32,025
    I'm openingabottleofwine.

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    To provide a simple answer: for normal listening the volume control is set at 12 'o clock, which is half way around the scale (8 'o clock to 4 'o clock), so it is sufficiently above the background noise level but still allowing sufficient headroom for peaks (i.e. far from clipping).

    But since we seem to have become fixated with dBs, when measured with a sound pressure level meter positioned at ear level height (0.75m) at my listening position (4.2m from the speakers - Quad 57s), I find:

    Listening to speech: 55 - 60 dBA

    Late night listening: 60 - 70 dBA

    'Belting it out' (loud): 70 - 80 dBA

    'Shaking the floorboards': 85 - 90 dBA

    (Maximum SPL achievable 99-100dB).



    So typical normal listening levels are ~ 70 - 75dBA.
    Barry

  2. #22
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Norwich

    Posts: 1,064
    I'm Mike.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pigmy Pony View Post
    My cat is a good indicator of volume level. I just increase the volume till she leaves the room.
    I've long thought that my cat is Mutt & Jeff ! I know when it's too loud because my wife leaves the room. She hasn't left the house yet, so an element of s.p.l. control seems to exist.

    I've found that just about every pre. (or integrated) I've had requires a different vol. control level, and, as far as pre-amplifiers go, it depends, among other things, on the logarithmic scale (is that right?) of the pot. It also depends upon the source I'm listening to, as each has its own output level. I do find, though, that despite my hearing loss, my ESLs tend to be more dynamic at lower volumes than the moving coils I had before. My valved pre. is also more dynamic than the Naim I had before. Lots of variables here; sufficient, methinks, not to be able to come to a meaningful conclusion, unless you have an s.p.l. meter.
    Last edited by Mike Reed; 05-02-2018 at 15:49.

  3. #23
    Join Date: Apr 2008

    Location: Warrington

    Posts: 3,451
    I'm Neil.

    Default How Far Up Do You Go ?

    No more than a quarter up, but this is a relative question because using a passive I could easily pass half way on the pot.
    Mana Acoustics Racks / Bright Star IsoNodes Decoupling >> Allo DigiOne Player >> Pedja Rogic's Audial Model S DAC + Pioneer PL-71 turntable / Vista Audio phono-1 mk II / Denon PCL-5 headshell / Reson Reca >> LFD DLS >> LFD PA2M (SE) >> Royd RR3s.

  4. #24
    Audio Al is offline Pishanto Specialist & Super-Daftee
    Join Date: May 2012

    Location: Dagenham Essex

    Posts: 11,215
    I'm Allen.

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    All the way up until my round things are banging on the back door
    [

  5. #25
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,012
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Barry View Post
    To provide a simple answer: for normal listening the volume control is set at 12 'o clock
    Your preamp obviously works differently from mine, or perhaps it's more to do with both your speakers being considerably less efficient and your room bigger?

    In my system and room, listening at 12 o'clock, even with vinyl (unless it was a piece of music recorded at a very low level), would be too loud for me to enjoy alone for sustained periods, hence why I'm usually hovering at around the 10 o'clock mark, to achieve normal listening levels.

    Don't get me wrong, I'm not it the situation, as some are, where a clipped, saturated sound is quickly achieved within the first few turns of the volume control [the Croft, in conjunction with the rest of the equipment and speakers in my system provides a 'comfortable' listening experience from 7 o'clock to 3 o'clock, and further still with vinyl], but I like my normal listening levels to be achieved earlier on the volume control than 12 noon.

    It's just a personal taste thing, but I also find that when you tune your system's 'gain structure' to work that way, it gives the sound more 'guts' [and makes for a punchier, more dynamic rendition of music], than when you have to lean harder on the volume control, to achieve normal listening levels, and your preamp sometimes appears as if its 'running out of puff', especially with recordings produced at a low level...

    For passive preamps, of course, different rules apply!

    Essentially, I like it so that my sources have a healthy (voltage) output, and both my power amp and speakers are nicely sensitive, thus making the job of amplifying the music signal easier, minimizing any 'bottlenecks'/restrictions, and allowing the music to 'breathe'. I then tune the response of my preamp to perform optimally in that context.

    In the case of valve power amps like mine, that means reducing feedback as much as possible, to the point that it doesn't adversely affect bass control or vocal definition. Applying more feedback always results in less sensitivity, and usually when combined with the former, results in a sub-optimal sound.

    Conversely, because the sound I enjoy now from my system has so much 'presence' and detail, even at low volume levels, you don't need to crank it up too much, in order to make music 'come alive', which is why most of my listening is done at around the 10 o'clock position - and with the majority of recordings needs going no higher, in order for the sound to be satisfactory.

    That for me, always produces optimal results. As ever, it's about achieving synergy, by getting the balance right between ALL constituent parts of the system, not just with certain ones

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & reg mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat/Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight/Isonoe feet & boots/Ortofon RS-212D/Denon DL-103GL in Denon PCL-300 headshell with Funk Firm Houdini/Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp/Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new, by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. LDR Stereo Coffee. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.


    Protect your HUMAN RIGHTS and REFUSE ANY *MANDATORY* VACCINE FOR COVID-19!

    Also **SAY NO** to unjust 'vaccine passports' or certificates, which are totally incompatible with a FREE society!!!


  6. #26
    RothwellAudio Guest

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    It's commonly assumed that, for example, a 100W amp with the volume control maxxed-out will put 100W into the speakers. With the control at half way it will put 50W into the speakers, and a tenth of the way round will put 10W into the speakers.
    However, it just isn't true.
    Neither is it necessarily true that if your music is loud with the volume control only a quarter of the way round you still have 75% of your available power in reserve, though I'm sure some manufacturers would like you to believe that so they make their amps deliberately over-sensitive. Actually, I'm not complaining because I've sold thousands of pairs of attenuators to reduce the sensitivity of such amps

    The truth, as other members have stated, is that the position of the volume control is no indication of how hard you're pushing the amp, or how much power you're using, or how loud the music will be.
    Personally, I like the music to be at moderate listening level with the control at 10 o'clock and fairly loud (whatever that means) at 12 o'clock. What really bugs me is when the volume control is too sensitive to set a quiet listening level for late night listening without the channel balance going completely off.

  7. #27
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: N E Kent

    Posts: 51,625
    I'm Geoff.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RothwellAudio View Post
    What really bugs me is when the volume control is too sensitive to set a quiet listening level for late night listening without the channel balance going completely off.
    Yes, that's really annoying. Another argument for dual volume controls, which I don't mind, but many seem to hate.

    I have a couple of cheap Chinese pre-amps and the stereo pots in those are spot on, but I've had a fair bit of British gear with pot imbalance. I recently replaced the volume pot in my Moth pre-amp and I had to try four new pots before it was satisfactory, those were Chinese too, so you can never tell.

  8. #28
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,012
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

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    The answer is to use the best stepped attenuators, instead of pots (even in dual-mono mode), as they're more accurate, and consequently sound better!

    Marco [has never heard any pot sound as good as the best steppers, in the right circuit].
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & reg mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat/Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight/Isonoe feet & boots/Ortofon RS-212D/Denon DL-103GL in Denon PCL-300 headshell with Funk Firm Houdini/Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp/Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new, by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. LDR Stereo Coffee. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.


    Protect your HUMAN RIGHTS and REFUSE ANY *MANDATORY* VACCINE FOR COVID-19!

    Also **SAY NO** to unjust 'vaccine passports' or certificates, which are totally incompatible with a FREE society!!!


  9. #29
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: N E Kent

    Posts: 51,625
    I'm Geoff.

    Default

    I like those and sometimes use them Marco, but they are too big to fit inside the Moth pre-amp.

  10. #30
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,012
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

    Default

    Drill out a bigger hole then, daftee!

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & reg mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat/Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight/Isonoe feet & boots/Ortofon RS-212D/Denon DL-103GL in Denon PCL-300 headshell with Funk Firm Houdini/Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp/Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new, by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. LDR Stereo Coffee. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.


    Protect your HUMAN RIGHTS and REFUSE ANY *MANDATORY* VACCINE FOR COVID-19!

    Also **SAY NO** to unjust 'vaccine passports' or certificates, which are totally incompatible with a FREE society!!!


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