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Thread: Speaker Box Suggestions Request

  1. #11
    Join Date: Nov 2014

    Location: Leicestershire

    Posts: 317
    I'm Mark.

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    Thanks all for the comments!

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  2. #12
    Join Date: Apr 2011

    Location: cheltenham

    Posts: 746
    I'm matt.

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    Because they are designed for car use, there will be no baffle step compensation. They would sound best fitted flush to a wall or you could build a very slim box and put that tight against a wall.

    If you're ever near Cheltenham I could measure the t/s parameters In seconds (well, minutes actually because I like to warm the driver up for a few mins first).

  3. #13
    Join Date: Nov 2014

    Location: Leicestershire

    Posts: 317
    I'm Mark.

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    Finally found some time to mount these up in the boxes very kindly donated by Infinitely Baffled - on a piece of 19mm plywood.
    Just need to wire them up and give them a try now!!!

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  4. #14
    Join Date: Nov 2014

    Location: Leicestershire

    Posts: 317
    I'm Mark.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RothwellAudio View Post
    BTW, having plenty of stuffing or BAF wadding or Rockwool inside the cabinets can make them behave as if the cabinets were bigger than they actually are. I've just looked at the specs for those drivers again and I'd say the cabinet needs to be as big as possible, or appear to the drivers as big as possible, so wadding might be worth trying if you find the speakers sound a bit boomy.
    My guess is the drivers were intended to be used fitted to a parcel shelf (hence the tilted tweeters) and the boot of the car would become a very large enclosure for them.
    Thank you. They were door speakers - originally I had them in my Nissan 200SX Turbo (which I wrote off 4 weeks after I bought it - too fast for me!).

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  5. #15
    Join Date: Nov 2014

    Location: Leicestershire

    Posts: 317
    I'm Mark.

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    I'm enjoying this!

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  6. #16
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: N E Kent

    Posts: 51,624
    I'm Geoff.

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    You need more screws through that baffle or it'll buzz and rattle.. You could experiment with a diffuser/reflector on the tweeters to redirect the output.

  7. #17
    Join Date: Nov 2014

    Location: Leicestershire

    Posts: 317
    I'm Mark.

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    Quote Originally Posted by walpurgis View Post
    You need more screws through that baffle or it'll buzz and rattle.. You could experiment with a diffuser/reflector on the tweeters to redirect the output.
    The baffle is firmly glued in with silicone, and screwed for good measure.
    The tweeters turn through almost (not quite) 360 degrees to point the way that sounds best...

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  8. #18
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: N E Kent

    Posts: 51,624
    I'm Geoff.

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    Actually, those drive units are almost asking for a Sonab style semi-omnidirectional cabinet.


  9. #19
    Join Date: Nov 2014

    Location: Leicestershire

    Posts: 317
    I'm Mark.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RothwellAudio View Post
    I think there's usually a pedal on the floor of those vehicles which the driver can use to control the speed. Don't press it down too far and it won't go too fast.
    I learned that - a little late!!!

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  10. #20
    Join Date: Nov 2014

    Location: Leicestershire

    Posts: 317
    I'm Mark.

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    Quote Originally Posted by walpurgis View Post
    Actually, those drive units are almost asking for a Sonab style semi-omnidirectional cabinet.

    Interesting!

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