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Thread: The Heybrook TT2 info thread.

  1. #31
    Join Date: Oct 2017

    Location: Ontario, Canada

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    I'm Svend.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RothwellAudio View Post
    Isn't the sub-chassis isolated from the outer chassis by design?
    Hi Andrew, just to clarify, I meant it was not well isolated from the shelf and cabinet. I wasn't referring to any shortcoming in the design of the turntable itself.

  2. #32
    Join Date: Oct 2016

    Location: Bolton, England

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    I would have thought that the whole point of a suspended sub-chassis is that there's no need to isolate the main chassis from its surroundings.

  3. #33
    Join Date: Oct 2017

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    Yes, that's true. But even popping the Tenderfeet under the TT2 helped noticeably, compared to the stock little rubber pads. Not a massive improvement, but I could clearly hear it. So there must be something going on there. At this point I'm not sure what I will try next, but thinking a marble or granite plate on sorbothane footers might work. It's an inexpensive experiment, and my system is sufficiently sensitive to these little tweaks that every little thing may help. To be clear, I'm not intending to go overboard on this. Just a simple tweak oughta do the trick.

  4. #34
    Join Date: Feb 2008

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    Quote Originally Posted by RothwellAudio View Post
    I would have thought that the whole point of a suspended sub-chassis is that there's no need to isolate the main chassis from its surroundings.
    It is, and if the world was a perfect place you’d be right. In the real world I’ve yet to meet a turntable of any type that wasn’t influenced by its surroundings. Yes, the suspension attenuates the passage of external vibration, but it doesn’t eliminate it completely.

    What the suspension has no effect on is the vibration induced in the chassis, platter and armboard by the stylus tracking the groove modulation. Any resonances in that assembly will cause peaks in the overall response.
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  5. #35
    Join Date: Oct 2016

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    Quote Originally Posted by Svend N View Post
    But even popping the Tenderfeet under the TT2 helped noticeably, compared to the stock little rubber pads.
    Quote Originally Posted by shane View Post
    Yes, the suspension attenuates the passage of external vibration, but it doesnít eliminate it completely.
    Yes, I was playing devil's advocate to some extent. The springs between the sub-chassis and main chassis will be more effective at some frequencies than others. I'm not sure exactly how the springs in the TT2 are attached but it might be worthwhile experimenting with them. For example, if they're attached directly to the sub-chassis it might be worth decoupling them from the sub-chassis with little rubber "things" - whatever your ingenuity can come up with. Of course, there are practical problems to solve such as changing the height at which the sub-chassis will sit if extra rubber bits are included but I think it's a worthwhile avenue for exploration for the serious tweeker.

  6. #36
    Join Date: Feb 2008

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    TT2 springs have moulded butyl rubber mounts top and bottom. Not easy to modify without completely redesigning the suspension.
    Time flies like an arrow.
    Fruit flies like a banana.

  7. #37
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: Sunny (occasionally) Devon

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    I'm Shane.

    Default Slightly cosmetically challenged TT2 on eBay.

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  8. #38
    Join Date: Oct 2017

    Location: Ontario, Canada

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    Here's something I hope will help anyone experiencing humming or buzzing in a TT2 with external power supply...

    I'd like to share how I recently fixed a hum problem on my own TT2. Last week I listened to the deck with headphones for the first time, and I noticed a hum which I hadn't heard before through the speakers (headphones were more revealing I suppose). It got louder as the tonearm approached the motor, louder again if I touched the headshell, and louder still if I touched the pivot assembly. "Odd..." I thought. But before driving myself nuts looking for ground wire problems in the tonearm, headshell, motor, etc., I watched this video, which was extremely helpful:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4GUqpgMxwj4

    It's by Paul McGowan, president of PS Audio, and is one of his Ask Paul series (a wonderful resource; see their website for a long list of these videos). At 4:40 he talks of the pitch of the hum being helpful to diagnose it's source -- a low-pitched 60hz hum is likely noise being picked up from a transformer, whereas a higher-pitched 120hz buzz is likely a ground loop.

    In my case it was the latter - a higher pitched buzz. "OK, so now what?", I asked. Well at 6:00 he talks about "ground potential" differences between turntable power supply and preamp, and the importance of those being balanced. Ah-ha! I had my TT2's external psu plugged into a simple power bar inside the cabinet (done so because it is switchable to be able to kill power to the psu when not in use).... Well, I unplugged the PSU from there and stuck it into a hefty power block into which the preamp was also plugged. Presto! no more hum. Quiet as a mouse. Man, that was an easy fix. Saved me hours of rummaging around with tonearm wires, motor ground cables, and that whole nightmare...

    If you happen to have the same scenario, even in a non-PSU Heybrook or any other turntable for that matter, it might we worth a few simple power cable swaps to see if you can clean that up. At least listening to the tone of the hum will help zero-in on a possible source.

    Cheers,
    Svend

  9. #39
    Join Date: Oct 2017

    Location: Ontario, Canada

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    Well I finally got around to making up a leather platter mat and testing it tonight. Interesting outcome.... I had high hopes that it would be The Schizzle, as they say. Umm...not so much, as it turned out. It sounded really good, and was better to my ears than the felt ones, but not nearly as good as the cork one.

    In summary, the leather sounded very fluid and smooth, and was quite a bit better than felt in this way. Less distortion, it seemed. Kind of a sweet sound overall. But imaging and sound stage were only so-so. Voices and instruments lacked "presence" in the room. Bass was thin and flabby. Sharp transients notes not very precise. Again, better than either the thick or thin felt versions that I have.

    But swapping the cork back on made a very noticeable improvement in all of these aspects. Bass was tighter and deeper; voices and instruments much more palpable and "there" (pretty amazing, actually...a few "Wow!" moments during listening); imaging and sound stage more precise and broader/deeper.

    The leather mat I made up was out of a piece of soft, flexible cowhide that I had lying around - matte natural surface, no sheen or gloss, uncoloured or dyed, about 1.5mm thick. Perhaps it would sound better if it were thicker leather? Who knows? But I don't think I will bother to try this -- there are commercial versions available that are claimed to be thicker, but at a price. TBH, the El Cheapo cork one that I have (I think I paid less than C$20 on Amazon) sounds so good I'd rather upgrade that get a better quality cork model. I think Pro-Ject makes one... I'll post back if I try it...

    Hope this helps all you TT2 owners out there.

    Best,
    Svend

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