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Thread: Roksan Nima question

  1. #11
    Join Date: Sep 2012

    Location: Derbyshire

    Posts: 542
    I'm mark.

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    Quote Originally Posted by WESTLOWER View Post
    you could be right, although 12 inches of SME with a ruddy great SPU takes some getting used to as well!
    The devil in me wants to take he Aro off the LP12 and stick it on the 401 as a second arm...
    not sure i will though, maybe just keep an eye out for a decent 9" arm in the classifieds.
    You know it makes sense

    IMG_3962 by mark leatherland, on Flickr

  2. #12
    Join Date: Mar 2016

    Location: Barnet, london UK

    Posts: 2,146
    I'm Adam.

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    Thats ...interesting, you obviously like the combo?
    Have you compared it to other Tonearms?

    It's in stark contrast to what some on AoS advocate.
    "lack of passion is fatal"


    Vinyl: Thorens TD-124mk2 / SME-312 Aluminium 'special' / SME M2-9R / STEREO: Etsuro Urushi Cobalt / Shure M3D / Ortofon SPU A95 / Cartridge Man Music Master / Shure - SC35C (US) / SAEC C3 MC MONO: Miyajima Zero B 0.7mil mono / Miyajima Premium 1.0 / Amps & SUTs: Radford STA25 mk3 / AD Audio 'Satchmo2' pre & LCR phono / Hashimoto HM-7 SUT / ETR-MONO SUT Digital: Audio Note 4.1 (with DAC5 upgrades) DAC / Roon / Tidal Speakers: Tannoy 12" MGs' in RFC custom 'Rutland' Cabinets with RFC crossovers / Tannoy ST-100 Super Tweeters Cables: LFD Grainless phono / RFC Mercury / Duelund DCA16GA tinned copper / Kimber 12TC / SW1X Audio Design USB-SPdif / Duelund DCA20GA interconnects / SW1X Audio SPDIF Aero 6 / Mains Power Conditioner / Box Furniture rack / Audiodesk Systeme Vinyl Cleaner / a very beautiful & understanding Wife!

  3. #13
    Join Date: Jul 2009

    Location: Hampshire, UK

    Posts: 3,662
    I'm Adam.

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    If I remember rightly, the easiest way to tell the difference between a Mk.1 Nima and a Mk.2 is to look at the armtube. On a Mk.1 this is circular in cross section, on a Mk.2 it is octagonal.
    Engineers: fixing problems you didn't know you had in ways you don't understand.

  4. #14
    Join Date: Sep 2012

    Location: Derbyshire

    Posts: 542
    I'm mark.

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    Sorry to the op, off at a tangent...

    Quote Originally Posted by WESTLOWER View Post
    Thats ...interesting, you obviously like the combo?
    Have you compared it to other Tonearms?

    It's in stark contrast to what some on AoS advocate.
    I like uni's on idlers (and DD's) they compliment each other, softening the one trick pony some say Garrard's are, the Aro is possibly the best I've had access to, more time with Moerch DP6 may have changed that.

    Against popularity I sold 2 Nima's for Tabriz's, had them J7 rewired and really like them, my choice for Decca SG.

    Sold a Hadcock when the Aro arrived, much closer than the Nima in performance but fiddle to set up.
    My current favourite arm is Artemiz, J7 silver rewired. Its ruthless, fast and direct like a decca.

    Somewhere in the mix is Audiomods V, and freshly arrived PU3.

    I'd like to try new SME, didn't like the old 'un and GB Tools offerings are always in the eBay search...

  5. #15
    Join Date: Mar 2017

    Location: Melbourne

    Posts: 445
    I'm Karl.

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    Thanks for all the replies guys I now know what to look out for, and if anybody knows of any going for a reasonable price then please let me know.
    chers
    karl
    CTC Classic 301 , SPH bearing and Hanze Hifi HAT CPS-2 all analogue power supply / Tenuto Mk2 mat / custom Panzerholz and Kewasinga articulating plinth / Track audio isolation feet / Reed tonearm / Audio Technica ART 9 / 2 box BigBottle mk3 phonostage with Clarity cap CMR and NOS Telefunkens valves / Croft 25R preamp with upgraded 12BH7A line stage and NOS 1956 RCA valves / Croft 7R monoblocks with NOS 56 RCA valves/ Dynaudio Contour 30i speakers / Spotfire interconnects and speaker cables / Merlin Scorpion mains block / Rhodium mains cables / Marantz CD DAC /

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