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Thread: Keeping hifi on

  1. #21
    Join Date: Oct 2015

    Location: Durham

    Posts: 426
    I'm Andy.

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    I finally found the thread I mentioned. It was more than a few months ago, but lots of interesting points which the OP may wish to consider:

    http://theartofsound.net/forum/showt...hlight=Thermal

    I LOVE the archive of threads here. It's such a great source of information.

  2. #22
    Join Date: Nov 2017

    Location: Northern Ireland

    Posts: 73
    I'm James.

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    My Albarry's are from the 80s and have never been opened, the owner before me always had them on if they've lasted this long like that I'm gonna stick with keeping them on
    MY SYSTEM
    SOURCES: Marantz cd63 mk2 ki, Marantz cd6000ose
    AMPLIFICATION: Albarry m408s mono blocs with ap3 pre
    CABLES: Chord company c-line, Monster interlink 400, QED silver speaker cable, Tacima cs947 mains conditioner
    SPEAKERS: Mission 752 freedoms, AKG K550 mk2 headphones

  3. #23
    Join Date: Mar 2017

    Location: West Sūžsēaxe

    Posts: 2,015
    I'm Edward.

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    I leave the Radford on when I fancy having the room warmed up when the central heating is off.

    Otherwise I turn things off ....
    Current: [P20] Roon/Tidal > Custom PC> Chevron Paradox NDF16 > Phast Pre > Neuro. 686 > Tannoy Berkley (RFC tweaks)


  4. #24
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,012
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

    Thumbs up Leave it on, and it'll be just fine...

    I leave all my solid-state equipment switched on 24/7 [valve gear is always powered down when not in use], simply because I like it ready to sound its best, as soon as it's used, rather than having to wait half an hour or so for it to 'warm up' and perform optimally, but most importantly because experience has shown that it's likely to last longer that way!

    I'm afraid that I don't buy the components 'wearing out' quicker theory, if gear is left switched on, as again the results of personal experience disproves it, or rather shows that the thinking is flawed. My Sony CDP and DAC, for example, have been powered up 24/7 for the last 6 years, with no problems whatsoever, and I'd expect the same to be the case in another 6 years. Previously I had a Naim system that was also left switched on for many years, with zero issues.

    Quite simply, experience tells me that equipment is most likely to fail, at the point of switch on, due to the inrush of current, which stresses components much more than when they're being left to function in a steady state, and so should be switched on and off as little as possible. Of course there will always be exceptions to the rule, as components can suddenly fail for a number of reasons, but in general, electronic components are happiest simply left 'doing their thing'.

    Therefore, folks, the only really valid reason for switching your gear off when it's not being used, other than when you're away from home for long periods of time (always a good idea from safety point of view), is to save electricity!

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & reg mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat/Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight/Isonoe feet & boots/Ortofon RS-212D/Denon DL-103GL in Denon PCL-300 headshell with Funk Firm Houdini/Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp/Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new, by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. LDR Stereo Coffee. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.


    Protect your HUMAN RIGHTS and REFUSE ANY *MANDATORY* VACCINE FOR COVID-19!

    Also **SAY NO** to unjust 'vaccine passports' or certificates, which are totally incompatible with a FREE society!!!


  5. #25
    Join Date: Jul 2016

    Location: Ferndown, Dorset, UK

    Posts: 248
    I'm Brook.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Marco View Post
    I leave all my solid-state equipment switched on 24/7 [valve gear is always powered down when not in use], simply because I like it ready to sound its best, as soon as it's used, rather than having to wait half an hour or so for it to 'warm up' and perform optimally, but most importantly because experience has shown that it's likely to last longer that way!
    Marco.
    I have often wondered about this, indeed I say it myself, but I wonder if part of the reason we think our systems sound better after a warm up period is because we as listeners have to warm up & relax into listening to music, so that after a period of say 20 minutes it is OURSELVES that have to get into the right zone & get more in tune with what we are listening to.

    Thoughts?

  6. #26
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,012
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

    Default

    Hi Brook,

    As human beings, we can't ever completely rule out a reaction to some form of emotional response, so us 'warming up' too, could be part of it. However, having experienced the effect 100s of times over the years, in all sorts of different environments and with various types of equipment, I suspect there's more to it than that.

    My view is that, just as electronic components function more reliably when in a state state of operation, so do they also perform optimally (in a sonic sense), when in said steady state, which reflects on the sound we hear from the associated equipment, and the music reproduced.

    However, by 'steady state' I don't simply mean that this is arrived at immediately after equipment has been switched on, but some time afterwards, which equates to the 'warming up' period I mentioned. In my experience, this is normally reached within 30 mins or so of equipment being powered up - and crucially, has had a music signal put through it.

    That last bit is important, if for no other reason than to 'warm up' the voice coils in your speakers, which the sound will be coming through!

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & reg mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat/Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight/Isonoe feet & boots/Ortofon RS-212D/Denon DL-103GL in Denon PCL-300 headshell with Funk Firm Houdini/Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp/Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new, by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. LDR Stereo Coffee. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.


    Protect your HUMAN RIGHTS and REFUSE ANY *MANDATORY* VACCINE FOR COVID-19!

    Also **SAY NO** to unjust 'vaccine passports' or certificates, which are totally incompatible with a FREE society!!!


  7. #27
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: Staffordshire, England

    Posts: 37,774
    I'm Martin.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by speedracer View Post
    I have often wondered about this, indeed I say it myself, but I wonder if part of the reason we think our systems sound better after a warm up period is because we as listeners have to warm up & relax into listening to music, so that after a period of say 20 minutes it is OURSELVES that have to get into the right zone & get more in tune with what we are listening to.

    Thoughts?
    I think that is far more likely to be the case, with solid state components anyway. I've never heard an improvement after 'warm up' that was so noticeable it could not simply be attributed to imagination. It's a classic case of audiophilia nervosa IME.
    Current Lash Up:

    TEAC VRDS 701T > Sony TAE1000ESD > Krell KSA50S > JM Labs Focal Electra 926.

  8. #28
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,012
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

    Default

    I beg to differ. See my last post...

    It's not anything to fret about, though... Simply switch on your system, go and make a cup of tea, and by the time it's brewed properly, you've cut yourself a nice slice of homemade fruit cake, and sat down, you'll be ready to rock and roll!

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & reg mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat/Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight/Isonoe feet & boots/Ortofon RS-212D/Denon DL-103GL in Denon PCL-300 headshell with Funk Firm Houdini/Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp/Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new, by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. LDR Stereo Coffee. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.


    Protect your HUMAN RIGHTS and REFUSE ANY *MANDATORY* VACCINE FOR COVID-19!

    Also **SAY NO** to unjust 'vaccine passports' or certificates, which are totally incompatible with a FREE society!!!


  9. #29
    Join Date: Jul 2009

    Location: Hampshire, UK

    Posts: 3,662
    I'm Adam.

    Default

    To all those people who leave their systems powered - do you also leave your car engines running all night when you're not using them? After all, we all know a car drives better when its warmed up.

    Engineers: fixing problems you didn't know you had in ways you don't understand.

  10. #30
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: Staffordshire, England

    Posts: 37,774
    I'm Martin.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Marco View Post
    I beg to differ. See my last post...

    It's not anything to fret about, though... Simply switch on your system, go and make a cup of tea, and by the time it's brewed properly, you've cut yourself a nice slice of homemade fruit cake, and sat down, you'll be ready to rock and roll!

    Marco.
    I'm more likely to be getting a Guinness and rolling a ciggy, but I do like to switch everything on 5 minutes or so before listening. The way I see it, if it can't warm up to full performance in 5 minutes it isn't fit for purpose. In reality I've never heard a difference with anything solid state, whether I give it 5 minutes or not. For valve equipment my jury is still out but since you can't leave that switched on all the time it's moot.

    In fact I'll go further and argue that speakers should need a warm up more than anything else, especially if they have been sat unused in a cold room. But since it is impossible to separate speaker warm up from amp and source warm up simply by listening, it is again a moot point.
    Current Lash Up:

    TEAC VRDS 701T > Sony TAE1000ESD > Krell KSA50S > JM Labs Focal Electra 926.

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