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Thread: Oil change advice

  1. #1
    Join Date: Feb 2011

    Location: glasgow

    Posts: 1,889
    I'm tony.

    Default Oil change advice

    I run a lenco gl75 that had been sounding fantastic....but with a change of bearing-pure pish!

    Initially Brian and me degreased it and put some lithium grease in it-still awfull....john martyn sounding even more pished and drugged than usual.

    I suspected too much stiction and the bearing not having loosened up.

    We then tried motorex 5w/30w fully synthetic- bingo the big man has sobered up and sounding good.

    I tend to keep my listening room/house rather cool.

    Another play last night and big JM is pished again.

    Ambient tempreture and viscotity are the devils work here...

    Whats you thought on going gt85/wd 40 till things loosen up?

    Ceramic bearing source is in the middle east........ a tad warmer than my gaff!!!

  2. #2
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: The Black Country

    Posts: 3,801
    I'm Alan.

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    I'd put the old bearing back in if it had been sounding fantastic.

    Just my 2p

  3. #3
    Join Date: May 2012

    Location: Dagenham Essex

    Posts: 7,347
    I'm I'mteachingmarcotheartofpishanto.

    Default

    3 in 1 or sowing machine oil
    Music , fills the gaps between silence !

    TAT Sale post Leader " Marcos Mentor "

    Also a pishanto specialist confirmed by Head Daftee

    Real name " Allen " or "Zoomer Nut”, “Numpty Napper”.

    ±± KEEP IT REEL

  4. #4
    Join Date: Feb 2011

    Location: glasgow

    Posts: 1,889
    I'm tony.

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    Thanks gents-new super duper bearing maybe aint so great after all....

  5. #5
    Join Date: May 2012

    Location: Toulouse

    Posts: 3,925
    I'm GettingFunky.

    Default

    I would not us WD40. It is hygroscopic.
    Kevin

    Funkified Technics SL1200 Mk2 (Funk FX-1200+, Techne-Audio modified DL-103/AT33PTG/II/, Funk Firm "Strata" platter, "Spin" bearing and BO!NG Isolation feet, MCRU/LDA PSU).
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  6. #6
    Join Date: Oct 2008

    Location: Glasgowshire

    Posts: 6,188
    I'm availableforweddingsAndBarmitzvas.

    Default

    Tony,
    I'd strongly recommend Audio Origami bearing oil.
    Use it in my turntable, wouldn't use anything else.

    To give you an idea how good it is compared even to the oil Michell supply (who know a thing or two about turntables) I changed it out for the Audio Origami stuff to compare.

    Doing the platter "spin test", with the AO oil the platter spun about twice as long.
    Less friction = better.

    Go with this mate, it just works.


    https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/253105638545?chn=ps&adgroupid=51041005567&rlsatarg et=pla-381492112996&abcId=1128946&adtype=pla&merchantid=1 15067562&poi=&googleloc=1007375&device=c&campaigni d=856858697&crdt=0
    I have hifi 'n stuff.


  7. #7
    Join Date: Jan 2009

    Location: Norwich

    Posts: 2,288
    I'm Hugo.

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    Isn't the Lenco motor a shaded pole induction design, in a similar vein to those used in old Garrards and my TD-124? If that's correct (and I may be wrong), a touch of constant linear drag actually helps speed stability which is why a 301/401/TD-124 sounds better with a touch of magnetic eddy braking, and indeed musically 'wrong' without. Eddy braking does not exist with a Lenco, but thicker oil/grease would do the same thing, and the motor has plenty of torque to cope with the drag.

    It does sound like the new bearing in this instance is not quite the upgrade that Tony was expecting!

  8. #8
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: Southall, West London

    Posts: 30,074
    I'm Geoff.

    Default

    It's normal to grease Lenco motor bearings, a drop of oil should be applied to the tip of the nose screw at the end of the motor shaft. The standard platter main bearing is very good and should be oiled, not greased.
    Mr. Tact!

    Main system: MMs/ADCs/Low output MC's/One rare Japanese SUT/One scarce British phono stage/various tonearms/hefty Japanese DD TT and hefty Japanese BD TT and small British BD TT. 4 CD players/2 jitter buster/2 DACs/Valve buffer. TVC stepped attenuator or valve pre-amp or solid state pre-amp. Current dumping power-amp or either of two Class A SS power-amp or Class A EL34 valve monos or big Japanese (part Class A) integrated. Big dual concentric speakers/Smaller dual concentric speakers/Two way British compacts and full range speakers, amongst others. And too much more to list!

  9. #9
    Join Date: Jan 2009

    Location: Sheffield - UK

    Posts: 5,825
    I'm Mark.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Gazjam View Post
    Tony,
    I'd strongly recommend Audio Origami bearing oil.
    Use it in my turntable, wouldn't use anything else.

    To give you an idea how good it is compared even to the oil Michell supply (who know a thing or two about turntables) I changed it out for the Audio Origami stuff to compare.

    Doing the platter "spin test", with the AO oil the platter spun about twice as long.
    Less friction = better.

    Go with this mate, it just works.
    Equating the time the platter takes to come to a halt with friction is not really accurate. Friction could be the cause but drag imparted by shear forces within the oil are far more likely. Essentially, a thin oil will allow the platter to spin for longer but a thicker oil will make the bearing more rigid - in both cases the friction is not altered. In my own magnetic bearing there is no direct contact between the bearing parts and friction is close to zero. However, because the oil is very thick the bearing does not spin for long. If a turntable were a bicycle then 'spin down speed' would be relevant but a turntable only has to go at one consistent speed and a very slow one at that. In addition, friction levels are very low compared to relative motor power and is easily overcome. Indeed, I would counter, there are clear advantages in causing the motor to see increased load rather than decreasing it.

    ---------

    I would strongly recommend that a ceramic ball bearing is not used in a standard bearing as it will be significantly harder than any tool steel main shaft or thrust pad and will cause increased wear in these components.

    100% Analogue

  10. #10
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: Southall, West London

    Posts: 30,074
    I'm Geoff.

    Default

    Yes. I agree with all that Mark.
    Mr. Tact!

    Main system: MMs/ADCs/Low output MC's/One rare Japanese SUT/One scarce British phono stage/various tonearms/hefty Japanese DD TT and hefty Japanese BD TT and small British BD TT. 4 CD players/2 jitter buster/2 DACs/Valve buffer. TVC stepped attenuator or valve pre-amp or solid state pre-amp. Current dumping power-amp or either of two Class A SS power-amp or Class A EL34 valve monos or big Japanese (part Class A) integrated. Big dual concentric speakers/Smaller dual concentric speakers/Two way British compacts and full range speakers, amongst others. And too much more to list!

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