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Thread: More Heybrook TT2 questions - sweating the small stuff

  1. #21
    Join Date: Oct 2017

    Location: Ontario, Canada

    Posts: 465
    I'm Svend.

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    Do you mean the Michell clamp? I checked through the O-L site and couldn't find a clamp. Maybe I missed it?

    The Michell clamp does look good, though. Delrin, with an aluminum knob on top. Should be nice and light, but hold the record securely (if it works as it should).

    In any case, I will definitely let you know how they work out. It may be a few weeks until that happens, as I usually don't like making too many changes at once -- one at a time, so I can live with it for a bit.

  2. #22
    Join Date: Feb 2018

    Location: Canada

    Posts: 17
    I'm Matz.

    Default Heybrook TT2 questions

    Hello to all you Heybrook TT2 owners out there..

    I recently purchased one of these beauties in very nice condition. It came with Rega RB300 arm & exact cartridge. The arm was rewired with Cardas wire by the previous (original) owner and is connected to Cardas Cross interconnects.

    I've had experience in past with the TT2 but the RB300 is totally new to me.

    My first question: What is your method of floating or leveling the arm as it tends to pull out towards the armrest even with zero tracking force.

    2: What is your method of setting the VTF?

    3: Do you find benefit in using a clamp even if the record is flat?

    TIA to all replies.

    Cheers!

  3. #23
    Join Date: Oct 2017

    Location: Ontario, Canada

    Posts: 465
    I'm Svend.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Matz View Post
    My first question: What is your method of floating or leveling the arm as it tends to pull out towards the armrest even with zero tracking force.

    2: What is your method of setting the VTF?

    3: Do you find benefit in using a clamp even if the record is flat?

    TIA to all replies.

    Cheers!
    Hi Matz,

    I had one of these arms on my TT2 for a time, so hope I can answer your questions adequately.

    1) Re. levelling the arm, first thing to do is set the anti-skate bias slider to zero. This is the little knob on the sliding scale below the arm, right adjacent to the lift. If it still pulls back, don't worry about it -- just let it come to rest as far back as it will go and balance it there.

    2) Once the arm is balanced, you have a couple of choices as to how to set VTF:
    a) use the big dial knob on the outboard side of the arm, which acts on a spring inside that housing and providing the down force...turn to your desired setting, check it with a force gauge, and you're done; or,
    b) set the VTF dial all the way to max setting (3+) which effectively disengages the spring (yes, I know that's counter-intuitive, but that's how it works), and then slide the counterweight back and forth until you get the right VTF. Some say that this method sounds better, and at first I thought so too, but later listening I decided it just sounds different, not necessarily better. You can try both and decide for yourself.

    3) I have never used a clamp on this table, so can't really comment. Keep in mind that if you use a clamp, you will have to reset the suspension to accommodate the extra weight. And then you must use the clamp for every record, otherwise the suspension will be out of whack. TBH, I'm not sure that there's enough spindle sticking up for a clamp to even grab on to.

    I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other questions. Enjoy the TT2! Wonderful deck.

    Svend

  4. #24
    Join Date: Feb 2018

    Location: Canada

    Posts: 17
    I'm Matz.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Svend N View Post
    Hi Matz,

    I had one of these arms on my TT2 for a time, so hope I can answer your questions adequately.

    1) Re. levelling the arm, first thing to do is set the anti-skate bias slider to zero. This is the little knob on the sliding scale below the arm, right adjacent to the lift. If it still pulls back, don't worry about it -- just let it come to rest as far back as it will go and balance it there.

    2) Once the arm is balanced, you have a couple of choices as to how to set VTF:
    a) use the big dial knob on the outboard side of the arm, which acts on a spring inside that housing and providing the down force...turn to your desired setting, check it with a force gauge, and you're done; or,
    b) set the VTF dial all the way to max setting (3+) which effectively disengages the spring (yes, I know that's counter-intuitive, but that's how it works), and then slide the counterweight back and forth until you get the right VTF. Some say that this method sounds better, and at first I thought so too, but later listening I decided it just sounds different, not necessarily better. You can try both and decide for yourself.

    3) I have never used a clamp on this table, so can't really comment. Keep in mind that if you use a clamp, you will have to reset the suspension to accommodate the extra weight. And then you must use the clamp for every record, otherwise the suspension will be out of whack. TBH, I'm not sure that there's enough spindle sticking up for a clamp to even grab on to.

    I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other questions. Enjoy the TT2! Wonderful deck.

    Svend
    Thanks for the reply Svend,

    The issue with trying to float the arm is that it pulls all way back and the armrest stops it from moving, is this a problem with the bearing? I hope not
    My clamp is a Michell clamp which I found I can't use anyway since the sub platter is not flush with main platter and actually bend the records.

    I'll try both methods of setting the VTF and report later.

    Matz
    Last edited by Matz; 11-02-2018 at 14:18.

  5. #25
    Join Date: Oct 2017

    Location: Ontario, Canada

    Posts: 465
    I'm Svend.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Matz View Post
    Thanks for the reply Svend,

    The issue with trying to float the arm is that it pulls all way back and the armrest stops it from moving, is this a problem with the bearing? I hope not
    My clamp is a Michell clamp which I found I can't use anyway since the sub platter is not flush with main platter and actually bend the records.

    I'll try both methods of setting the VTF and report later.

    Matz
    Hi Matz,

    Did you find the anti-skate bias slider? Set to zero? Still pulling the arm back then? Let me know how that's working....

    Svend

  6. #26
    Join Date: Oct 2017

    Location: Ontario, Canada

    Posts: 465
    I'm Svend.

    Default

    Matz, hope it's working out for you, but if you're really stuck, send me a PM with your phone number and I'll walk you through it. Happy to help you along with this....

    Svend

  7. #27
    Join Date: Feb 2018

    Location: Canada

    Posts: 17
    I'm Matz.

    Default

    Yes and I did set it all the to zero but it's still pulling

  8. #28
    Join Date: Feb 2018

    Location: Canada

    Posts: 17
    I'm Matz.

    Default

    Thanks Svend, that's mighty generous of you!

  9. #29
    Join Date: Feb 2018

    Location: Canada

    Posts: 17
    I'm Matz.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by shane View Post

    3) Iíve never felt the need to use a weight but some people swear by them. I donít think the bearing would be bothered much, itís very lightly stressed. If you did end up with a dimple in the end of the spindle any competent machine shop could grind it flat and re-harden it for you. All the machining for the TT2 was done by a little two-man engineering shop near us with nothing unusual in the way of equipment.
    Shane,

    Re; clamps, the sub platter of the Heybrook is not flush with outer platter, is there a reason for that?

    I tried using the Michell clamp and fits perfectly inside the slight indentation of the sub platter relative to the outer platter and actually warps the records.

    Is there a solution to this?

    Cheers!
    Matz

  10. #30
    Join Date: Oct 2017

    Location: Ontario, Canada

    Posts: 465
    I'm Svend.

    Default

    Matz, you could try making up a disc shim of suitable thickness to fill that space and make it level with the main platter. I wonder if a CD/DVD would do it?

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