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Thread: Heybrook TT2 w. RB300 -- cartridge recommendations

  1. #91
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: Southall, West London

    Posts: 29,489
    I'm Geoff.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Svend N View Post
    is it just as simple as the manual says?

    Thanks,
    Svend
    Yes.
    Mr. Tact!

    Main system: MMs/ADCs/Low output MC's/One rare Japanese SUT/One scarce British phono stage/various tonearms/hefty Japanese DD TT and hefty Japanese BD TT and small British BD TT. 4 CD players/2 jitter buster/2 DACs/Valve buffer. TVC stepped attenuator or valve pre-amp or solid state pre-amp. Current dumping power-amp or either of two Class A SS power-amp or Class A EL34 valve monos or big Japanese (part Class A) integrated. Big dual concentric speakers/Smaller dual concentric speakers/Two way British compacts and full range speakers, amongst others. And too much more to list!

  2. #92
    Join Date: Jan 2017

    Location: Bristol

    Posts: 79
    I'm Clive.

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    Hopefully Shane will be along to confirm but I believe for the TT2 the springs are aligned to the position that gives the right bounce. The springs are marked for that alignment. I have never had any problem with the TT2 not giving a pistonic bounce.

    For LP12s the springs have to be rotated to find that position.

  3. #93
    Join Date: Oct 2017

    Location: Ontario, Canada

    Posts: 110
    I'm Svend.

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    As we say over here... Well I'll be darned! I was fully expecting to spend hours of frustration fiddling with the spring adjusters getting the bounce set precisely right. The medicinal whiskey bottle was already poised at the workbench in anticipation of frayed nerves. Seems like this is rather a matter of minutes. A bit of a let down, really, as I was bracing for the challenge. (just kidding - the sooner I can play music on this thing the better!).

    Let's hope Shane doesn't burst my bubble now...

    Thanks,
    Svend
    Last edited by Svend N; 06-11-2017 at 20:23.

  4. #94
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: Sunny (occasionally) Devon

    Posts: 1,509
    I'm Shane.

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    As they say at PMQs, I refer my honourable friend to my previous answer.

    Quote Originally Posted by shane View Post
    It will, but adjusting the TT2 suspension to compensate is an absolute doddle. Unlike some....
    it really is that simple. If the springs are aligned correctly, which they will be unless someone’s dismantled it and put it back together wrong, then the only thing that will upset the bounce is a stiff arm lead that’s been badly dressed.

    How’s it sounding?
    Time flies like an arrow.
    Fruit flies like a banana.

  5. #95
    Join Date: Oct 2017

    Location: Ontario, Canada

    Posts: 110
    I'm Svend.

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    Quote Originally Posted by shane View Post
    As they say at PMQs, I refer my honourable friend to my previous answer.



    it really is that simple. If the springs are aligned correctly, which they will be unless someone’s dismantled it and put it back together wrong, then the only thing that will upset the bounce is a stiff arm lead that’s been badly dressed.

    How’s it sounding?
    Frustratingly, I haven't got to playing it as yet. We were away for the weekend (visiting eldest daughter at university), then got back to tinkering with it last night. Got as far as mounting and aligning the Bronze, and discovered that the VTA is way off (tail down), so will need a spacer. Quick fix is going to be a 1" id stainless washer until I get around to ordering some proper Rega spacers. But this means getting into an arm removal, adding spacer, and re-dressing the cable, for which I didn't have time last night.

    Springs and seats are in good shape, though. I took them all off, as they were not lined up with the red marks. Once lined up they stayed put during the whole suspension adjust procedure -- nice! And you guys were right, this is a doddle, as you say. Nuthin' to it. Piece of cake.... The armboard is a bit skewed laterally, but I assume that's OK, as long as it's not touching the plinth...correct?

    For bearing oil I had some light semi-synthetic spindle oil (for air tools) kicking around -- it needed about five drops. Seems to work great -- platter spins forever.

    I also put a few drops of sewing machine oil into the top of the motor at the shaft bushing, so that should do it some good.

    So other than setting the VTA spacer, I think it's good to go. Plinth looks great with a coat of lemon oil on it. Stain job worked OK, but not perfect. I will keep at it with a touch-up stain pen to see if it takes up any more.

    Hopefully it will be playing music tonight

    Cheers,
    Svend


    PS - I will be ordering a belt from Guy, and maybe a blank arm board if I feel inclined to put a Jelco on there. Nice to know there's someone I can get original parts from.

  6. #96
    Join Date: Jan 2017

    Location: Bristol

    Posts: 79
    I'm Clive.

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    Don't know if Guy has replacement arm boards at Puresound.

    The arm board was the biggest problem on mine. It was a problem when I bought the deck but I did not know better at the time. The board was thicker at one end and also a bit warped so I could not get the arm properly level relative to the platter. I tried to compensate but the net result was the deck under performed.

    Some posts by Jamie here and at Audiokarma convinced me to have a go at replacing it. The process is not straight forward for someone without carpentry skills but when I succeeded it transformed the deck.

  7. #97
    Join Date: Oct 2017

    Location: Ontario, Canada

    Posts: 110
    I'm Svend.

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    Thanks Clive -- I appreciate the head's up on that. I just checked the arm board with a small straightedge and it seems flat. I will see about measuring thickness somehow... Crossing fingers that it's all OK. Good tip on matching tonearm level with platter -- I hadn't thought of that.

    Making a new one should be quite straightforward, if needed, but I really don't want to have to do that if I can avoid it.

    In the end I may not end up with a Jelco on this deck, as I have the RB300 and R200 to play with and really need to hear them for a longer time before I decide. It will be a couple of months before any verdict is out. We'll see...

    Cheers,
    Svend

  8. #98
    Join Date: Jan 2017

    Location: Bristol

    Posts: 79
    I'm Clive.

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    The problem with the arm board led to the cartridge azimuth being out with a right bias that varied a bit across the records. I used some washers to try to compensate but don't think the coupling of arm to board that resulted was optimum.

  9. #99
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: Sunny (occasionally) Devon

    Posts: 1,509
    I'm Shane.

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    The original arm board was made from two layers of 9mm birch ply glued and stapled together with the two m4 mounting studs fitted through the bottom board before assembly. I think the staples were there just to hold the two layers together during manufacture. The glue would most likely be PVA. I don’t have the original drawings but I can measure one up to get the correct dimensions if need be.
    Time flies like an arrow.
    Fruit flies like a banana.

  10. #100
    Join Date: Jan 2017

    Location: Bristol

    Posts: 79
    I'm Clive.

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    Shane - I have not used glue for the replacement board I fabricated. Just used tacks and the two bolts with plywood I got from B&Q. One bolt to hold it firmly in place and the other for location,

    I think the drawing was available in an older thread (unless photobucket has killed it) but I was able to use the board that came with the deck as a template. The new board is working well for me so I am in the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" territory. I did do several in order to get one that worked. I had to do the holes for a Linn mount. A Rega mount will probably be pretty easy.

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