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Thread: Heybrook TT2 w. RB300 -- cartridge recommendations

  1. #81
    Join Date: Oct 2017

    Location: Ontario, Canada

    Posts: 110
    I'm Svend.

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    Quote Originally Posted by shane View Post
    Don’t forget that on a suspended turntable like the TT2, the more flexible the better. Some of the really thick figure 8 cables can be a nightmare to dress properly.
    Funny, my wife said the same about me just the other morning...

    Shane, I don't suspect the cable on the R200 would fit your characterization of "really thick". It is a figure 8, about the thickness of a good sized power cord -- thicker than a lamp cord; thinner than a 16ga. cord into, say, an amplifier. Feels fairly light and flexible. I'm sure it'll be OK... But any comments gratefully accepted.

    So I picked up the Heybrook from the shop today, and it runs! Hurrah! The tech checked the speed and it's all good. I did ask them not to adjust the suspension as I would like to learn to do it myself, and I will be playing with a clamp and mats in the near future so changing the mass occasionally.

    There's still a bit of work to do: swap the arms; touch up the finish on the plinth; polish the platter rim; adjust springs; align the cartridge; adjust VTA if needed; do the cable dressing; clean the bearing well and add oil. Should be playing music in a couple of days.

    The belt looks in good shape, but have you any experience with the Origin Live belts? They make some rather lofty claims about their performance. Any truth to that? Worth paying a bit extra for?

    Thanks,
    Svend
    Last edited by Svend N; 02-11-2017 at 21:55.

  2. #82
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: South West England

    Posts: 923
    I'm Guy.

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    I do have the proper Heybrook belts (acquired from the factory when it closed). They are a very high quality item sourced, I think, from the same supplier Linn used although the TT2 belt is shorter than the LP12 belt.

  3. #83
    Join Date: Jan 2009

    Location: Derbyshire Nr. J28 of M1

    Posts: 568
    I'm Rob.

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    Quote Originally Posted by pure sound View Post
    I do have the proper Heybrook belts (acquired from the factory when it closed). They are a very high quality item sourced, I think, from the same supplier Linn used although the TT2 belt is shorter than the LP12 belt.
    I can vouch for these (and Guy!) as I purchased from him when I had a TT2.

  4. #84
    Join Date: Oct 2017

    Location: Ontario, Canada

    Posts: 110
    I'm Svend.

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    Perfect! Thanks for touching base. Guy, I will send you a PM later today.

    Chat soon...

    Svend

  5. #85
    Join Date: Oct 2017

    Location: Ontario, Canada

    Posts: 110
    I'm Svend.

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    IMG_20171103_084944.jpg

    Starting to look better....

    The aluminum polishing compound worked great on the platter rim (I used Met-All polish). Platter looks as good as new.

    I used an aniline wood dye to get the chipped finish back to black, then a couple of coats of Danish oil to fill in the damaged parts, buffed out. Just a bit of lemon oil left to apply on the whole plinth and it should look quite nice.

    Best,
    Svend

  6. #86
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: Sunny (occasionally) Devon

    Posts: 1,509
    I'm Shane.

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    Brilliant! I’ve not come across the OL belts, but I doubt that they would significantly improve on the original. As Guy says, it was sourced from the same supplier as the Linn belt, and Guy’s replacements are genuine NOS. Having said that, there’s no reason to assume there’s anything wrong with your current belt. Mine’s 35 years old now and still perfectly good!

    You might want to have a look at my webspace. There’s a load of assorted pics of TT2s and a PDF of the original owner’s manual which details how to set up the suspension, arm leads and belt tracking.

    http://www.thepippin.plus.com/TT2/
    Time flies like an arrow.
    Fruit flies like a banana.

  7. #87
    Join Date: Oct 2017

    Location: Ontario, Canada

    Posts: 110
    I'm Svend.

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    Thank you Shane. That will be a great help!

    Could you give your opinion on the question of the arm cable? I'm wondering if the figure 8 cable on the R200 is what you would consider too thick? It doesn't seem thick to me, but then my frame of reference is basically zero experience with suspended decks. If you need further description or better photos then let me know. I can try to find some pics on the web also, as several R200's pictured out there seem to have the same cable as mine.

    If it's not going to work, then no worries, I will rewire it (prob. not a bad idea anyway, if it's stock wiring).

    Thanks for the comment on the belts. I'll probably buy a couple to just to have a spare.

    Best,
    Svend

  8. #88
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: Sunny (occasionally) Devon

    Posts: 1,509
    I'm Shane.

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    Looking back at you photos of the arm lead, I don’t think you’ll have any problems. If it’s fairly soft it’ll be fine. Looking really good!
    Time flies like an arrow.
    Fruit flies like a banana.

  9. #89
    Join Date: Oct 2017

    Location: Ontario, Canada

    Posts: 110
    I'm Svend.

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    Thanks! Just need to let the Danish oil cure on the chipped areas, then top coat of lemon oil and it will be gleaming More pics once it's done...

    Good to hear about the R200. Should be fine re. the cable -- it's quite flexible.

    I just checked the compliance specs of the 2M Bronze, and it's really rather high compliance at 22. So probably not a great match for the R200 -- RF comes out to 6.96...not ideal. I will probably wait to switch arms until I get a lower compliance cartridge. No sense starting out with a mismatch, not after all this work. I'd like to try an MC soon. The shop that worked on the TT2 was highly recommending the Hana line, and they certainly get good press. The Denons will work on a heavier arm also. Looking forward to dipping my toe into the world of moving coils.

    Cheers,
    Svend

  10. #90
    Join Date: Oct 2017

    Location: Ontario, Canada

    Posts: 110
    I'm Svend.

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    Re. setting the springs -- the owners manual for the TT2 only talks about levelling the subchassis using the spring adjustment bolts (after levelling the plinth and centering the subchassis in the plinth). Is that all there is to it? I was under the impression that the "bounce" of the subchassis had to be just so, and spring adjustment was carried out to achieve the right amount of rebound. Am I over-thinking this, or is it just as simple as the manual says?

    Thanks,
    Svend

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