+ Reply to Thread
Page 8 of 14 FirstFirst ... 678910 ... LastLast
Results 71 to 80 of 138

Thread: Heybrook TT2 w. RB300 -- cartridge recommendations

  1. #71
    Join Date: Jan 2009

    Location: Derbyshire Nr. J28 of M1

    Posts: 568
    I'm Rob.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Svend N View Post
    Here you go...
    The cables are not original, however this is not necessarily a bad thing.

  2. #72
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: Southall, West London

    Posts: 29,489
    I'm Geoff.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Svend N View Post
    For future reference, I found another very detailed thread on repairing the R200 bias belt:

    https://www.vinylengine.com/turntabl...p?f=32&t=49784

    Some very good pictures here and good step by step description.
    Somewhat like this.







    Yes. That was mine in bits.
    Mr. Tact!

    Main system: MMs/ADCs/Low output MC's/One rare Japanese SUT/One scarce British phono stage/various tonearms/hefty Japanese DD TT and hefty Japanese BD TT and small British BD TT. 4 CD players/2 jitter buster/2 DACs/Valve buffer. TVC stepped attenuator or valve pre-amp or solid state pre-amp. Current dumping power-amp or either of two Class A SS power-amp or Class A EL34 valve monos or big Japanese (part Class A) integrated. Big dual concentric speakers/Smaller dual concentric speakers/Two way British compacts and full range speakers, amongst others. And too much more to list!

  3. #73
    Join Date: Oct 2017

    Location: Ontario, Canada

    Posts: 110
    I'm Svend.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by freefallrob View Post
    The cables are not original, however this is not necessarily a bad thing.
    Quite so, Rob. One would think that someone taking the trouble to replace the wiring would have done so in order to upgrade it. If that's the case, this arm is looking better and better.

    I'm contemplating not even bothering to set up the Bronze on the Heybrook/RB300 at this point, and just doing an arm swap straight away and leaving the Bronze on the R200.

    Originally Posted by walpurgis
    Somewhat like this.
    Good one Geoff. Is this from a thread of yours?

    It would sure be nice if I didn't have to do all that, but it's probably inevitable.

    Svend

  4. #74
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: Southall, West London

    Posts: 29,489
    I'm Geoff.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Svend N View Post
    Is this from a thread of yours?
    No. Just some photos I saved whilst doing the job. I sold the arm shortly afterwards.

    You'll find getting the plastic inner and outer magnet moving helix correctly aligned the most annoying part. The outer rotating piece has several possible positions and you need the get the operating knob set to point correctly.
    Mr. Tact!

    Main system: MMs/ADCs/Low output MC's/One rare Japanese SUT/One scarce British phono stage/various tonearms/hefty Japanese DD TT and hefty Japanese BD TT and small British BD TT. 4 CD players/2 jitter buster/2 DACs/Valve buffer. TVC stepped attenuator or valve pre-amp or solid state pre-amp. Current dumping power-amp or either of two Class A SS power-amp or Class A EL34 valve monos or big Japanese (part Class A) integrated. Big dual concentric speakers/Smaller dual concentric speakers/Two way British compacts and full range speakers, amongst others. And too much more to list!

  5. #75
    Join Date: Oct 2017

    Location: Ontario, Canada

    Posts: 110
    I'm Svend.

    Default

    Pardon my lack of knowledge, but what is the purpose of the little cylinder at the end of the shaft which extends inboard from the tonearm, between CW and pivot?

  6. #76
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: Southall, West London

    Posts: 29,489
    I'm Geoff.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Svend N View Post
    Pardon my lack of knowledge, but what is the purpose of the little cylinder at the end of the shaft which extends inboard from the tonearm, between CW and pivot?
    It's a lateral balance weight, to compensate for the arm's 'S' shape offsetting the headshell and its weight. They are not uncommon. The Pioneer PL-12D has one.

    I think they are basically a waste of time. Any imparted torsional effects through the arm without one seem to produce nothing untoward. An old tweak was to remove them as they were regarded as prone to resonating.
    Mr. Tact!

    Main system: MMs/ADCs/Low output MC's/One rare Japanese SUT/One scarce British phono stage/various tonearms/hefty Japanese DD TT and hefty Japanese BD TT and small British BD TT. 4 CD players/2 jitter buster/2 DACs/Valve buffer. TVC stepped attenuator or valve pre-amp or solid state pre-amp. Current dumping power-amp or either of two Class A SS power-amp or Class A EL34 valve monos or big Japanese (part Class A) integrated. Big dual concentric speakers/Smaller dual concentric speakers/Two way British compacts and full range speakers, amongst others. And too much more to list!

  7. #77
    Join Date: Oct 2017

    Location: Ontario, Canada

    Posts: 110
    I'm Svend.

    Default

    Got it! Thanks for that. I see your point about resonating. Every little thing matters, eh?

    BTW, back to the wiring on my arm, if you look at the 2nd and 3rd pics in the Vinyl Engine thread that I linked, his arm seems to have the exact same cables as mine. This makes me think that perhaps at some point during the production period of this deck/arm Rega changed their cables from what Rob and Shane have seen, and that the ones on mine are in fact original. Again, not necessarily bad (I hope).

    Svend

  8. #78
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: Southall, West London

    Posts: 29,489
    I'm Geoff.

    Default

    There are aftermarket conversion kits for tonearms, that include a five pin plug that sits in the recess at the base of the arm stem and a lead with a captive corresponding socket.
    Mr. Tact!

    Main system: MMs/ADCs/Low output MC's/One rare Japanese SUT/One scarce British phono stage/various tonearms/hefty Japanese DD TT and hefty Japanese BD TT and small British BD TT. 4 CD players/2 jitter buster/2 DACs/Valve buffer. TVC stepped attenuator or valve pre-amp or solid state pre-amp. Current dumping power-amp or either of two Class A SS power-amp or Class A EL34 valve monos or big Japanese (part Class A) integrated. Big dual concentric speakers/Smaller dual concentric speakers/Two way British compacts and full range speakers, amongst others. And too much more to list!

  9. #79
    Join Date: Oct 2017

    Location: Ontario, Canada

    Posts: 110
    I'm Svend.

    Default

    So basically that would allow easy swapping of outboard cables? Is that worth doing to this arm? How good (or poor) might the stock tonearm wires and connecting cables be? (keeping in mind it's going on the Heybrook)

  10. #80
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: Sunny (occasionally) Devon

    Posts: 1,509
    I'm Shane.

    Default

    Don’t forget that on a suspended turntable like the TT2, the more flexible the better. Some of the really thick figure 8 cables can be a nightmare to dress properly.
    Time flies like an arrow.
    Fruit flies like a banana.

+ Reply to Thread
Page 8 of 14 FirstFirst ... 678910 ... LastLast



 

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •