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Thread: Wanted Bias Meter for valve amplifier

  1. #11
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: NE England

    Posts: 4,173
    I'm Jez.

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    I've got one I bought for £3.99 from Netto's and it works perfectly well. Obviously I use quality ones in my day to day work but it's handy to have one that can be considered disposable to take if you're eg helping a mate with his car electrics and there is a risk of it getting stood on or having a pipe wrench dropped on it.
    The OP is only wanting to measure the bias on his valve amp and this usually means about a volt or so (up to 60V if measuring the actual bias rather than the voltage at the bias test points). I haven't personally ever heard of one blowing up when used to test the mains. I don't doubt that it has been known to happen but this would likely be a particular make and model and not a common issue. I have used my £3.99 one to measure the mains on several occasions with no problems.

    The safety issue is worth considering if one intends to use it for high voltages yes but I have trouble in believing such incidents as Marco mentions are more than rare isolated incidents. Caveat emptor though...
    Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)

    Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
    ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
    Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
    Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco

  2. #12
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,012
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

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    Some further comments, posted on behalf of the same qualified EE...

    "As for £3.99, for a test instrument, well what can you say to that! The problem is that these things do explode. One major issue (apart from measuring voltage at 240V), is the instrument reliability when someone goes from testing resistance, to measuring voltage, even down to 60-70 volts.

    They short out in an impressive manner, and valve amps can easily produce these voltages with a decent bit of current (amps) behind it!!"

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & reg mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat/Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight/Isonoe feet & boots/Ortofon RS-212D/Denon DL-103GL in Denon PCL-300 headshell with Funk Firm Houdini/Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp/Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new, by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. LDR Stereo Coffee. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.


    Protect your HUMAN RIGHTS and REFUSE ANY *MANDATORY* VACCINE FOR COVID-19!

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  3. #13
    Join Date: Sep 2014

    Location: Northern Ireland

    Posts: 1,403
    I'm John.

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    For measuring mains voltages you should be using a category II or better to give protection against arc flash if the multimeter inadvertently presents a short circuit due to wrong range selection, voltage spike, damage etc.

    Here's a useful guide from the experts, Fluke: https://assets.tequipment.net/assets...ter-safety.PDF

  4. #14
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: NE England

    Posts: 4,173
    I'm Jez.

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    People will have to make up their own minds on this...

    One often sees these at Lidl and other such German stores and despite being cheap and made in China they often have German "VDE" and/or EU safety markings on the outer cardboard packaging. These will have been purchased in huge quantities and the tale above (I can guess who the EE is) is the only such tale I've ever heard of. If Lidl/Aldi/Halfords/Maplins etc £5 meters were regularly exploding I reckon it would have made the press and there would have been product recalls etc.

    Yer pays yer money and takes yer choice but I don't have any problem with them personally. It is probably best to avoid ones from ebay or car boot sales as they won't have undergone Lidl/Aldi/Halfords/Maplins own in house safety checks.

    The single biggest risk is from user error by having the meter switched to measure current and then putting it across the mains. Most meters (all that I've seen) have a fuse inside for protection against this. Most meters have a separate input socket for this and you have to unplug the positive probe from its normal position and replace it in the "Amps" socket. Some cheap ones allow the normal socket to be used for mA readings though and a quick look at my Netto one reveals this to be the case here. This IS something to at least be aware of.

    To put all this in perspective though, the OP is wanting a meter to measure bias and in most cases there are bias test points, accessible without removing covers etc, for just this purpose and we are usually talking a Volt or so...
    Last edited by Arkless Electronics; 30-09-2017 at 20:32.
    Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)

    Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
    ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
    Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
    Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco

  5. #15
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,012
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Arkless Electronics View Post
    (I can guess who the EE is)
    I seriously doubt it. The one you think it is would've said what he had to say here, so no gold star!

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & reg mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat/Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight/Isonoe feet & boots/Ortofon RS-212D/Denon DL-103GL in Denon PCL-300 headshell with Funk Firm Houdini/Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp/Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new, by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. LDR Stereo Coffee. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.


    Protect your HUMAN RIGHTS and REFUSE ANY *MANDATORY* VACCINE FOR COVID-19!

    Also **SAY NO** to unjust 'vaccine passports' or certificates, which are totally incompatible with a FREE society!!!


  6. #16
    RothwellAudio Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by Eaton Mess View Post
    Looking for a Bias meter for a valve amplifier to adjust and set when required
    Does the valve amp in question have test points easily accessible from the outside of the case? How many volts (or millivolts) are expected?
    If you're expecting, say, 100mV I can't see how even the cheapest/crapest meter could injure you. It will be measuring the voltage across a small value resistor in series with the cathode and even if the meter went short circuit it wouldn't damage anything.

    Of course, it might be cathode biased design, which would be a bit different. We don't know until you tell us.

  7. #17
    Join Date: Aug 2017

    Location: Derbyshire

    Posts: 19
    I'm Malcolm.

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    Thank you all for your comments!
    I didn't realise a simple request would simulate such a discussion

    @Marco I have been warned off using the cheap Chinese meters by other professionals for the reasons you stated. Although many are not intrinsically dangerous in the wrong hands or through lack of experience (ME) they can be lethal because of their design, lack of proper protection or mixing DC and AC through the same inputs

    @Rothwell Audio Well it all depends - I have more then one amplifier to bias as I have SET's and Push Pull and they range from simple easily accessible external bias points with adjustable pots to the need to be a circus contortionist with the amplifier upside down and messing around within the internals.

    Its been suggested to me that an ex MOD meter would be the best option called the Fluke 25 (re badged Fluke 27) whilst more expensive and older than the Maplin, Lidl, EbAY Chinese meters it is better quality, safe to use and would have lasting value?

    There is an interesting appraisal here

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