Perhaps hifi, like cars and many other consumer products, is simply too good to be interesting now, so the reviews look at more and more esoteric stuff simply because you’d end up with a magazine full of 8/10 reviews otherwise?
I’ve got sick of top gear reviewing stuff that’s obscenely expensive, and I’ve got sick of hifi reviews that are the same.
I use a £30 chromecast as my source now not because it sounds better than my cdp or squeezebox but because it’s plenty good enough that the ease of use more than outweighs the tiny loss of quality. £500,000 systems smack of willy waving to me, especially when spending a tenth of that on the room would get far more performance improvement albeit without being as impressive to see.
SBT/Chromecast/TEAC T1 into TEAC D-T1 DAC or olde-worlde Rega Planar 2 controlled by Rotel RC850 into HH S500D or DACT Passive Pre into Mullard 5-20 monos. Then into Tannoy Cheviots and a Wharfdale sub. All connected by colourful cables.