Originally Posted by
Bigman80
Yes, I am sure it will give me food for thought. So will sleeping in the doghouse if I decide I can't live without it lol.
Seriously, I completely underated the importance of the preamp in a system, Like Jez, believing it couldn't make much difference. I was wrong.
Spoke to Al, the Jolida shouldn't have any issues with the new caps. He has a copy of the circuit diagrams too. All is good.
BTW they are aluminium and oil Mundorf Evos.
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Each to their own but personally I don't think there's any difference worth noting between decent quality passive attenuators. They do sound better than a typical pot though in my experience. I also wouldn't use a TVC personally. Any "improvement" they may bring will be due to added colourations and I want my sound accurate above "nice".
Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)
Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco