+ Reply to Thread
Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 40

Thread: Speaker cable for recommendations for sceptic

  1. #11
    Join Date: Nov 2011

    Location: Romford

    Posts: 4,658
    I'm inconspicuous.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Simon75 View Post
    In what respect did you find it worked better?
    Less bright/toppy

  2. #12
    Join Date: Feb 2014

    Location: Huntingdonshire

    Posts: 1,219
    I'm Andrew.

    Default

    No plugs just tinned ends for me dudes. With Fisual S-Flex 'studio grade' speaker cable. Good and cheap, my favourite things.

    Although my speakers use those super high fidelity ultra modern Bulgin plugs and sockets!

  3. #13
    Join Date: Aug 2016

    Location: Edinburgh

    Posts: 119
    I'm Patrick.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Roy S View Post
    Less bright/toppy
    Cheers, what tannoy speakers are you using out of interest? I read one review that reckoned the Precision 6.1s were lacking in lower mid range and bass, personally I just find them neutral.

  4. #14
    Join Date: Nov 2011

    Location: Romford

    Posts: 4,658
    I'm inconspicuous.

    Default

    Arden MkIIs but had same experience with DC10Ts.

  5. #15
    Join Date: May 2008

    Location: A Strangely Isolated Place in Suffolk with far away trains passing by...

    Posts: 14,378
    I'm David.

    Default

    Speaking as an ex-dealer -and it's probably worse now!!!

    Dealers make a bloody fortune on speaker cables as it's usually a give-away on a system! If you're happy with this, then fine (and in fact, Naim and Rega cables possibly carry least dealer margin of all retailer bought wires).

    I use an electrical installation cable H-07, which is 7 strands at 2.5mm overall cross-section, two conductors per channel. May be not as cheap as the Fisual or Van Damme stranded 2.5mm, but it works well for me. The NVA LS2 uses a very good example of the cable and is neatly terminated with 'Z Plugs' which I like and use myself as long as they're not plugged and unplugged constantly..

    One last shot - Linn marketed a very good speaker cable for the Classik one-box system they did. It still lives on

    http://www.audioaffair.co.uk/linn-k1...CABEgLZUvD_BwE.

    This stuff has been around for decades, is available from several suppliers for not huge money and is a fairly chunky transparent multi-strand figure-8 type with a thick red band down one side. I'm hoping the types available are the same and the typical one of old worked well with anything.
    Tear down these walls; Cut the ties that held me
    Crying out at the top of my voice; Tell me now if you can hear me

  6. #16
    Join Date: Aug 2016

    Location: Edinburgh

    Posts: 119
    I'm Patrick.

    Default

    Thanks for that, loads of food for thought. Any evidence that the width of speaker cable enhances the bass?

  7. #17
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: NE England

    Posts: 4,643
    I'm Jez.

    Default

    Steer clear of screw on plugs! Differences as the screw loosens and or the contact area oxidises will completely out weigh the non existent differences between speaker cables.

  8. #18
    Join Date: Mar 2017

    Location: London N2

    Posts: 378
    I'm Edward.

    Default

    About 20 years ago when I purchased a 'real' CD player (a Micromega) I asked the dealer to recommend/sell me some reasonable cable which I took (quad qlscf2). Still using them today. Via friends I have tried out various ultra expensive cables, mine beats or matches the ultra expensive cables. So now I don't focus on upgrading my cable.
    Source: Win10 server, Win10 Mini-ITX Renderer running JRiver
    DAC / Preamp: Perreaux DP32
    Amp: Radford Revival STA25, TubeHunter Class D IRS2092
    Speakers:, Kudos Cardea C2, Acoustic Research 8BX (modded)
    Power Conditioner: ISOtek Qube 1kw
    Currently resting: Chevron Paradox NDF16 DAC, Radford Revival Prototype preamp, Paul Baldwin 405C amp, Arcam 290P, Sony TA-VA8ES, PMC LB1 Signature, Micromega MyDac

  9. #19
    Join Date: Mar 2017

    Location: London N2

    Posts: 378
    I'm Edward.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Arkless Electronics View Post
    Steer clear of screw on plugs! Differences as the screw loosens and or the contact area oxidises will completely out weigh the non existent differences between speaker cables.
    Oh!

    What do you recommend Jez in terms of plugs and solder?
    Source: Win10 server, Win10 Mini-ITX Renderer running JRiver
    DAC / Preamp: Perreaux DP32
    Amp: Radford Revival STA25, TubeHunter Class D IRS2092
    Speakers:, Kudos Cardea C2, Acoustic Research 8BX (modded)
    Power Conditioner: ISOtek Qube 1kw
    Currently resting: Chevron Paradox NDF16 DAC, Radford Revival Prototype preamp, Paul Baldwin 405C amp, Arcam 290P, Sony TA-VA8ES, PMC LB1 Signature, Micromega MyDac

  10. #20
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: NE England

    Posts: 4,643
    I'm Jez.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Edwardlon View Post
    Oh!

    What do you recommend Jez in terms of plugs and solder?
    Any old plug that's a good tight fit and normal everyday solder. Avoid the lead free stuff as it is really crap. You'll need a reasonably powerful soldering iron. A good 25W one as a minimum will do it.

+ Reply to Thread
Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast



 

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •