Show Us Your Speakers!

[Blueflash]

I assume the 50s are passive judging by the cables and that silver box at the bottom.

I'm sticking with my SCA2 as permanently as I can predict, but the remote - trying to read the white print on silver in low light!

They are active and have been brought to full ASL spec including the Pro version tweeters.

The silver box is my dual balanced mains transformer. It has a 1750 Kva one for the speakers, and a 1000 Kva for the sources.

The SCA2 is probably the most transparent preamp I have ever heard, but when I first bought it new it sounded awful for about a month. I was ready to give up on. In the end I left it powered on for about 3 weeks not on the standby setting.

That sorted it and now I will never part with it, or the speakers. The cables are Van Damme Starquad XKE, I have a fully balanced system and that will stay due to being surrounded by about 19 Wifi points. Going balanced stopped the slight harsh sound that spoiled female vocals and made the soundstage narrow with no depth.

But now it is all sorted and I am listening to it most evenings. Three CD`s during a session with no listener fatigue at all. In fact I only stop because I have to get up for work about 6:00 am ...

[cooky]

These are in the AV room good down to 50hz and augmented by a BK XXLS 400 sub.

JBL 2206/2435Be/SAM1 horns active XTA226 DSP into Rotel 6 channel AV power amp.



Back panel for mounting the the Horn/Comp driver;


Some I'd made earlier using 2235h 15" bass drivers;

[cooky]

Main speakers mid construction; JBL 15" ME150HS bass driver, JBL2452 Compression driver/4" Truextent Beryllium diaphragm on H9800 horn. Active via AllDSP PLP226 processor into Quad 521f and 240 power amps.



CNC'd H9800 horn throats;



Nearly there, Horn contour made of layered ply(later replaced by a full cnc'd version)



Finished speaker;

[cooky]

Legacy Arden project using Tannoy 3833/36 driver in a (beat up)Tannoy York enclosure.



Tannoy System 15 DMT11 refurb-these are keepers I just have to find the room.



Arden 1's in storage for now.



I really enjoy these diy builds, in the past I've also built Tannoy corner Lancasters, Cambridge R50/HiFi answers transmission lines, Tannoy Arundels, Rectangular Yorks, Westlake TM1's-monsters! and Tannoy 215 DMT's

[karma67]

Oh, made those myself - based on an AMT device.

if i may ask a stupid question,can you add the super tweeters without wiring to the x-over?
ie straight to the terminals with a cap in line?

[walpurgis]

Yes. That's what I do. As far as I'm concerned, it's the best way. There's no benefit in interfering with the crossover. The series cap value is very important though. There is a tendency for people to pick too large a value. Start with 0.5mF and see.

[karma67]

hmm i feel a mod coming on lol,
would a 3 or 3.7 cap be in the ball park,how would you work out where to start?

[walpurgis]

I've used 0.22uF or even 0.1uF in the past. It depends on the tweeter sensitivity. You should just about be able to discern very, very high frequency output when the tweeter is wired up on its own. If it's obvious, the cap is too big. Strangely, the tweeter impedance seems to have little effect on eventual cap choice.

[walpurgis]

Oh. And you can try connecting them in phase and out of phase. The results can be interesting, sometimes out of phase seems better.

[karma67]

I've used 0.22uF or even 0.1uF in the past. It depends on the tweeter sensitivity. You should just about be able to discern very, very high frequency output when the tweeter is wired up on its own. If it's obvious, the cap is too big. Strangely, the tweeter impedance seems to have little effect on eventual cap choice.

ah so the way forward is to start with small values and work upwards,is the cap wired in the + cable or between + and - ?