Cleaning Behind The Tuning Scale...The Japanese Are Here Preview.

[Spectral Morn]

Hi Guys


Well recent experience with having to get a tuner fixed (thanks to Rodney Hanna, and for free what a guy), provided me with a fair bit of knowledge as to how the front fascias of a particular make of tuner, are put together. So armed with this knowledge I have been tackling a problem that seems so far to be mainly with one brand (details later) only(at least so far its only been this brand). "What is this problem ?" I hear you ask...well dirt behind the tuning scale. Theres nothing worse than the soft glow of VU meters and display, being ruined by copious amounts of dirt, dust, hairs , and thirty years of use (with no cleaning).

So suitably annoyed,at a much less than spotless display, and in possession of the skills to disassemble some of Japanese best Tuners I set to it.

What you will need to complete such a task (other than knowing what you are doing) is, a clean clear table top, with soft material top (to prevent scratching your pride and joy), good selection of screw drivers, cleaning tools including cotton wool buds,soft wide brush, cotton wool pads, tissue paper, Tesco Anti-Bacterial Multi-Surface Cleaner(fabulous at lifting dirt quickly, and so far has not caused and adverse reactions with any tuner I have cleaned)...oh yes good lighting conditions and a powerful torch (this will help you spot areas of glass that are still smeared.)

Firstly a warning...never assume that the material the tuning scale is applied to the glass is stable. It is entirely possible that this transfer, paint may flake or rub off. Clean round it carefully and never apply a fluid. I always clean the area the scale is on (so far always on the revers of the glass display) dry..its better to be safe rather than sorry...just ask Tony L of PFM (I read a tuner thread over there some time ago, were he [I think]while cleaning damaged a tuning scale ). Its okay to use fluid to clean the top surface but ensure none gets onto the back.

With the tuner on, the amount of crap visible completely ruined the look of this tuner (? just wait all will be revealed). After removing the Tuning knob, selector knob, switch tops and headphone knob I was able to remove the fascia. Luckily the switch tops just popped off by hand and the knobs securing crub screws all unscrewed easily. Once removed (three screws holding it in place on the top, and three on the bottom ) the amount of crap was clear, as you can see in the two photos below.





I used a cotton bud and soft brush to remove all the dirt from the metal work. It was not too hard to remove, but quite a lot was trapped under the glass, and behind it. This particular tuner has two layers of glass covering the tuning scale. The main display glass was smeared both on the front and back. With the fascia removed I cleaned both the metal work and glass, back and front with Tescos fluid, applied by a cotton pad and bud (this to apply soft pressure to remove stubborn stains). With this particular tuner, and some other models in this brands past you must watch out not to dampen the velvet strips which sit over the slots for the switches. They may come off if you get them damp. If this happens Copydex glue will work to re-stick it down. This removed the dirt and smears, after drying I placed it in a plastic bag which I sealed (this to keep new dust off).



Note velvet damping pads, which surround the slots the switches poke through.





With the fascia clean, and bagged, I had to remove the metal bands that help hold the glass tuning scale in place. With those removed the rubber slots which hold/damp the scale, prized gently from the top edge came loose, allowing access to clean both sides of the scale.



You can see the dirt collected on the tip of the cotton bud (done dry)



After quite a long period of careful cleaning the scale was also placed in a bag which I sealed.



I then turned my attention to the metal work which sits behind the glass. As its black, it shows the dirt up badly. I damp cleaned the VU meter glass, being careful not to apply too much fluid. I then dusted the metal work and tuning arm slot.



You can see the Stereo indicator and the right side display illuminator lamp (it looks like a fuse. These fail a lot)



Everything was now ready to re-assemble the display. This was done quickly to minimise new dust build up. First the glass tuning scale, then the main fascia. This needs to be lined up carefully, to avoid scratching or damaging the control knob shafts and switch shanks. Lining it all up and making sure the headphone socket goes into its hole, is a little tricky but once done it screws back together quickly. Leave the screws slightly loose so you can check fascia alignment, once checked/done tighten it all up. The last thing to do is reattach the bottom and top plates, making sure to leave no gap along the top edge of the fascia and lid.

The Sony 5130 Tuner fascia and various knob and switch tops.



The reassembled SONY 5130....Magic







So one more Tuner in for test has its identity revealed more to follow really soon.


Regards D S D L


No part of this text or photos can be reproduced without written permission. Copyright of both belongs to NK.

[Barry]

There weren't many tuners that used a glass tuning scale. MacIntosh and, I think, the early Marantz tuners used glass scales, but to my knowledge virtually none of the British tuners did. Perhaps Chris (TGW) can tell us if the Accuphase designs have glass tuning scales.

Anyway Neil, you're just racking up the tension - I can't bear it!

Regards

[Jonboy]

You little tease, Very nice work Neil you have more patience than me thats for sure

[Spectral Morn]

There weren't many tuners that used a glass tuning scale. MacIntosh and, I think, the early Marantz tuners used glass scales, but to my knowledge virtually none of the British tuners did. Perhaps Chris (TGW) can tell us if the Accuphase designs have glass tuning scales.

Anyway Neil, you're just racking up the tension - I can't bear it!

Regards

Don't want to give to much away, but several tuners in for test have glass tuning scales.

Tensions good

Regards D S D L

[Spectral Morn]

You little tease, Very nice work Neil you have more patience than me thats for sure

Moi ? A tease !


Regards D S D L

[The Grand Wazoo]

Nice job Neil!

Yes the T-101 has a glass scale, as have end of the '70's Marantz's - even the 15xx series receivers which were huge casualties of cost cutting excercises (hardboard baseboards, anyone) had glass in them. All the Sansui's too - again, even quite low rent models. But in 1979/80, everything changed except for the really good stuff!

Would you believe I used to have a small collection of glass tuning dials from steam radio units? I even had a few framed! On the really old pieces, a quick guide to age can be had by looking at which stations were available. I used to have a really beautiful red glass dial with etched markings picked out in yellow - can't remember what machine it came from though!

[The Grand Wazoo]

By the way, did you mark or measure the exact position of the dial before you removed it? It'd be a shame to lose the very accurate tuning some of these units can have. Some folks like to make a mark so it's always there. I prefer to measure & write it on a label with a little diagram. Stick the label inside on a chassis side wall.

[Spectral Morn]

By the way, did you mark or measure the exact position of the dial before you removed it? It'd be a shame to lose the very accurate tuning some of these units can have. Some folks like to make a mark so it's always there. I prefer to measure & write it on a label with a little diagram. Stick the label inside on a chassis side wall.

The rubber end stops that hold the glass in place (which are ridged), and are bound by two metal straps sit tight into both ends of the inner metal work, and this meant I didn't need to do what Chris suggests. However it is a point well made. Many tuners may not have as tight a tolerance, thus allowing play, back and forward of the tuning scale. If you don't do what Chris suggests you may find your tuning off/wrong.


Regards D S D L

[Barry]

The rubber end stops that hold the glass in place (which are ridged), and are bound by two metal straps sit tight into both ends of the inner metal work, and this meant I didn't need to do what Chris suggests. However it is a point well made. Many tuners may not have as tight a tolerance, thus allowing play, back and forward of the tuning scale. If you don't do what Chris suggests you may find your tuning off/wrong.


Regards D S D L

Whilst there is a certain aesthetic satisfaction in knowing that when the tuning indicator is aligned with, say 94MHz, you are going to hear the 'Archers' in full fidelity, it ought to be pointed out that all fine level tuning should be done through a combined use of the signal strength meter, the tuning meter and your ears.

Regards

[The Grand Wazoo]

Whilst there is a certain aesthetic satisfaction in knowing that when the tuning indicator is aligned with, say 94MHz, you are going to hear the 'Archers' in full fidelity, it ought to be pointed out that all fine level tuning should be done through a combined use of the signal strength meter, the tuning meter and your ears.

Regards

Very true Barry, & of course that's what we all do, but a good part of my love of old tuners is purely to satisfy the aesthete in me!