hmmm
hmmm
Technics SP10 mk2
Jan Allaerts MC 1 Boron mk1 cart
Miyajima Shilabe cart
Hashimoto HM-X SUT
Siggwan (gimballed not unipivot) Cocobola 12"
Aurorasound Vida LCR Phonostage
The Truth linestage
Dave Slagle Autoformer Volume Controller
Cary 805c SET amps
Audio Note ANe-SPX speakers
Townshend Isolda speaker cables
Cardas Golden Presence interconnects
Location: Torquay, Devon.
Posts: 5,684
I'm Shane.
Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)
Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco
Location: North Island New Zealand
Posts: 1,757
I'm Chris.
And following the rush ( reminds me of the Neil Young song ) the ability of diode bridges to handle such capacitance is a major concern. The old rule of thumb, that is still immently sensible is 1000uf for every amp of current drawn. The LT4320 using 4x N channel hexfets at 50 amps each, might provide ability for such high capacitance, but are then limited by Rds on of the mosfet and voltage can be no higher than 70v.
I don't want to bastardise - but it's quite old and I'm sure some of the components must be out of spec - though I don't know. It sounds extremely good. In fact I was planning on a post about it compared to my Cary monsters.
Technics SP10 mk2
Jan Allaerts MC 1 Boron mk1 cart
Miyajima Shilabe cart
Hashimoto HM-X SUT
Siggwan (gimballed not unipivot) Cocobola 12"
Aurorasound Vida LCR Phonostage
The Truth linestage
Dave Slagle Autoformer Volume Controller
Cary 805c SET amps
Audio Note ANe-SPX speakers
Townshend Isolda speaker cables
Cardas Golden Presence interconnects
I deliberately used that word as the initial post suggested more to me than a simple check up and more a modification. It is possible that components may be off spec and it would be worth getting them measured. If all still in spec and no bits known to fail suddenly then I would leave alone. Changing components out even if same values can change the sound unless they are identical parts but the problem will be that manufacturing changes to those parts might alter the sound.
I know some folks aren't precious about designers work and as long as they get a perceived improvement will happily alter a classic design but from a collectors point of view, and yours and any amp designed by that legendary designer fall under that heading then altering them will kill the collectors value, and ruin what that designer designed that amp to be.
Put it simply a Lectron amp or yours unaltered I would buy, but a messed with one, nope wouldn't touch it with a barge pole. That's me and others mileage will vary. You pays your money and makes your choice.
Regards Neil
I would first off' just replace the power supply caps for decent quality new ones, and posibly upgrade the diodes, or bridge rectifiers for better ones, and see how much it changes things first before going too drastic, you may end up turning something you currently like, into something somewhat diffrent to what you remember!
Just my ramblings.
A...
"Today scientists have substituted mathematics for experiments, and they wander off through equation after equation, and eventually build a structure which has no relation to reality"
Nikola Tesla
Its now a conspiracy theory to believe that the Immune system is capable of doing the job it was designed to do.
A fish is only as healthy as the water its swimming in ! [Dr Robert Young]
www.tubedistinctions.co.uk
Matthew 5:10
Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)
Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco
Thanks guys. I don't want to change the design so sorry if my initial post suggested otherwise. I do however need to investigate an issue and thought it might be a good chance to pimp up some components
The issue I have is that with it connected there is a grounding issue - touching the fingerlift causes a hum. If I float the ground on the preamp it goes away. Not sure if this is a design flaw or if something is wrong. It's not an issue with other amps.
Also the red neon rocker switch for power doesn't completely go out - it's always on albeit at a low level.
Saying this it sounds extremely good - in some areas beating my Cary 805c monsters.
Sent from my Aquaris X Pro using Tapatalk
Technics SP10 mk2
Jan Allaerts MC 1 Boron mk1 cart
Miyajima Shilabe cart
Hashimoto HM-X SUT
Siggwan (gimballed not unipivot) Cocobola 12"
Aurorasound Vida LCR Phonostage
The Truth linestage
Dave Slagle Autoformer Volume Controller
Cary 805c SET amps
Audio Note ANe-SPX speakers
Townshend Isolda speaker cables
Cardas Golden Presence interconnects