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Thread: PSU Upgrades. Why?

  1. #51
    RothwellAudio Guest

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    No, I don't think there is - other than listening to the equipment. The difference between a 50 watt integrated amp that sounds sublime and one that's just ok has very little to do with how expensive the components inside are and everything to do with how elegant and well-implemented the design is.
    I remember seeing years ago a DNM pre-amp with what appeared to be a ludicrously complex circuit board with not many components on it but a vast number of tracks. Now I appreciate what it was all about.

  2. #52
    Join Date: Oct 2012

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    I'm Alan.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RothwellAudio View Post
    ..... everything to do with how elegant and well-implemented the design is.
    Oh how true

    Combine with the KISS principle and you're on to a winner.

  3. #53
    Join Date: Mar 2017

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    I'm Edward.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RothwellAudio View Post
    No, I don't think there is - other than listening to the equipment.
    Oh - I had hoped there would be a simple test - such as a continuity test - to test for and then correct any grounding issues.

    But yes I agree that listening is probably the best way.

    On the DAC I use there is a ground lift switch - it makes zero difference either way - so I guess there is no ground issue there. Correct? Or is a ground lift switch simply eliminating a ground loop and if one does not exist there will be no difference?

    E
    Current: [P20] Roon/Tidal > Custom PC> Chevron Paradox NDF16 > Phast Pre > Neuro. 686 > Tannoy Berkley (RFC tweaks)


  4. #54
    Join Date: Nov 2008

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    I'm AMusicFanNotAnAudiophile.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Edwardlon View Post

    On the DAC I use there is a ground lift switch - it makes zero difference either way - so I guess there is no ground issue there. Correct? Or is a ground lift switch simply eliminating a ground loop and if one does not exist there will be no difference?

    E
    Yup!
    Chris



    Common sense isn't anymore!

  5. #55
    RothwellAudio Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by Edwardlon View Post
    Oh - I had hoped there would be a simple test - such as a continuity test - to test for and then correct any grounding issues.

    But yes I agree that listening is probably the best way.

    On the DAC I use there is a ground lift switch - it makes zero difference either way - so I guess there is no ground issue there. Correct? Or is a ground lift switch simply eliminating a ground loop and if one does not exist there will be no difference?

    E
    Perhaps we're talking at cross purposes. By "correct grounding" I wasn't referring to the way a collection of sources/preamps/amps are connected, rather the way that individual elements within a circuit are connected on a PCB, ie the way the 0V tracks are routed. It's an easy mistake to think that 0 volts (or earth, or ground or whatever term you prefer) is a black hole that all the rubbish goes into and all points at 0V are the same, but that's not true. Current flows down those tracks and one end of a track can be very different from the other.

    On the macro scale yes, you're correct that if a ground loop doesn't exist then it can't be broken by using an earth lift switch.

  6. #56
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: NE England

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    I'm Jez.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RothwellAudio View Post
    No, I don't think there is - other than listening to the equipment. The difference between a 50 watt integrated amp that sounds sublime and one that's just ok has very little to do with how expensive the components inside are and everything to do with how elegant and well-implemented the design is.
    I remember seeing years ago a DNM pre-amp with what appeared to be a ludicrously complex circuit board with not many components on it but a vast number of tracks. Now I appreciate what it was all about.
    Indeed. Audiophiles obsess far too much on "component quality" and "boutique capacitors" etc. The design of the circuitry itself, the ground layout and the correct provision of power at Point Of Load completely swamps any effects from fancy components.
    Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)

    Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
    ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
    Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
    Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco

  7. #57
    Join Date: Apr 2011

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    I'm matt.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Arkless Electronics View Post
    correct grounding practice
    Here's the correct grounding practice In a Naim preamp

    Star Earth Mod


  8. #58
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: NE England

    Posts: 4,173
    I'm Jez.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RothwellAudio View Post
    Perhaps we're talking at cross purposes. By "correct grounding" I wasn't referring to the way a collection of sources/preamps/amps are connected, rather the way that individual elements within a circuit are connected on a PCB, ie the way the 0V tracks are routed. It's an easy mistake to think that 0 volts (or earth, or ground or whatever term you prefer) is a black hole that all the rubbish goes into and all points at 0V are the same, but that's not true. Current flows down those tracks and one end of a track can be very different from the other.

    On the macro scale yes, you're correct that if a ground loop doesn't exist then it can't be broken by using an earth lift switch.
    Ah beat me to it! It's sometimes regarded as a bit of a "black art" but it's certainly something that is usually the biggest cause of problems in home made kit etc... It's surprising how often less than good grounding practice is found in commercial kit as well! It can be hard for the lay man to get his head around why you cant get a piece of bare wire, connect it to ground at one end and run it the length of the amp and then connect all the things that need to go to ground to this piece of wire... not if you want good performance anyway... sometimes the unit will not even work properly and burst into oscillation!

    At its extreme, in ultimate quality voltage regulators I've designed and built, the exact manner in which earthing is done is so critical that even though the ground connections are of very thick wire and only an inch or so long they have to be just right for it to work at all!!
    Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)

    Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
    ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
    Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
    Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco

  9. #59
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: NE England

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    I'm Jez.

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    Quote Originally Posted by fatmarley View Post
    Here's the correct grounding practice In a Naim preamp

    Star Earth Mod

    Oh dear..... Naim are actually very good at getting the grounding right!
    Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)

    Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
    ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
    Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
    Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco

  10. #60
    RothwellAudio Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by fatmarley View Post
    Here's the correct grounding practice In a Naim preamp

    Star Earth Mod

    That's beautiful

    Quote Originally Posted by Arkless Electronics View Post
    ... sometimes the unit will not even work properly and burst into oscillation!
    I learned that one the hard way!

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