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Thread: The perils of modifying gear

  1. #71
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: NE England

    Posts: 4,173
    I'm Jez.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Beobloke View Post
    The problem I have with modifications is that some people don't know when to stop, or what the consequences are of the changes they are making. I have absolutely no problem if people want to mess around with interconnect, speaker and mains cables as this is a fairly harmless (mostly...) pastime but, as an engineer, I do get quite irritated by enthusiastic bodgers thinking they know better than the qualified design teams of large organisations delving into equipment and faffing around with it. I know of several manufacturers' repair departments that spend much more time than they would like, undoing modifications to their products to make them work again, and I've done it myself on more than one occasion.

    As an example, internet "wisdom" has long prevailed that changing capacitors can cure all known ills but often it can do more harm than good - witness someone I know of who changed all the caps in his high end direct drive turntable "as a precaution" and completely stopped it working! A friend of mine who does a great deal of repairs now adds a minimum of £10 to his repair costs if the owner confesses to having already changed capacitors - I've even known him to take the new ones out and put the old ones back in, once he's proved there is absolutely nothing wrong with them!

    As an aside, the latest episode that is annoying me is a chap on a different forum who is currently "modifying" a fine pair of Mordaunt Short bookshelf speakers by slapping unnecessary coatings all over the drivers, attacking the cabinets with a chainsaw and junking the crossovers. I used to work with the guys who designed this speaker and we used them on many occasions for reference duty at Mordaunt Short - they were actually something of a 'sleeper' in the range and incorporated much of the technology that was adopted into the new range that followed them, at a lower price. However, the stuff he's removing was there for a very good reason and I would put money on it that the damn things will both measure appallingly and sound hideous when he's finished, which makes me a bit sad. And why is he doing all this? Because some other "expert" on the forum is egging him on by telling him it's a good idea!
    It can be a nightmare yes... I usually add a hefty premium to my bill if equipment has been messed with and have also refused to repair a few bits of kit that have been got at to an extreme extent. On one occasion I had a big Jap amp in which must have cost the guy £30 in postage to send to me... after a quick look inside I repacked it and phoned him to say he will have to arrange to have it collected as I ain't touching it! Most of the wiring had been messed about with and all by twisting the ends together and wrapping them in sellotape!
    Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)

    Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
    ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
    Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
    Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco

  2. #72
    RothwellAudio Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by Arkless Electronics View Post
    Most of the wiring had been messed about with and all by twisting the ends together and wrapping them in sellotape!
    Yeah, but I bet it was audiophile sellotape

  3. #73
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,012
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

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    You're forgetting about the effects of the famous 'wuffle dust'

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & reg mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat/Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight/Isonoe feet & boots/Ortofon RS-212D/Denon DL-103GL in Denon PCL-300 headshell with Funk Firm Houdini/Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp/Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new, by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. LDR Stereo Coffee. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.


    Protect your HUMAN RIGHTS and REFUSE ANY *MANDATORY* VACCINE FOR COVID-19!

    Also **SAY NO** to unjust 'vaccine passports' or certificates, which are totally incompatible with a FREE society!!!


  4. #74
    montesquieu Guest

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    I've had quite a few bits of kit modded over the years with fancy caps, foo wiring, 'special' NOS valves etc but nowadays I've become much more skeptical. Yes in principle we know that mass-manufactured kit is often value engineered with cheapest possible bits used where the manufacturer thought they could get away with it. In such cases it might seem obvious to use better wire or caps but it has to be done with extreme caution otherwise changes can have unintended consequences.

    Where I would draw the line is making actual changes to circuits, cone mass, cap values etc - this is almost always bad news unless it's done by someone who really understands at a deep level what's going on. (I feel shame here in having a decade or so ago paid quite a lot of cash to have a pretty rare SJS Model Two preamp 'improved', only to have Simon undo the mods later for a future owner and find that an expensive bit of Kondo signal cable had been run underneath a mains transformer resulting in a small but definite hum in one channel. This was restored to original along with removal of a forest of expensive but unnecessary bypass caps. I guess I'm not the only one that has this sort of 'live and learn' story thinking back).

    These days, on the whole, I prefer to upgrade (as in replace) kit when funds allow rather than 'improve it' - on the basis only of auditioning it first. A rather more reliable way of improving the overall system.

  5. #75
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: South West of England

    Posts: 263
    I'm Will.

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    A good general rule of thumb is that to successfully modify a piece of equipment you need two criteria. One is you have to be as smart or smarter (in terms of electronics thinking) than the original designer of the equipment. The second being you need to establish what parameter or aspect of the performance you want to improve. Otherwise you're just soldering in parts to feel good.
    Radford Revival
    www.radfordrevival.co.uk

  6. #76
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: Staffordshire, England

    Posts: 37,883
    I'm Martin.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RothwellAudio View Post
    Yeah, but I bet it was audiophile sellotape
    Yes, the well-known sellotape mod. It gives more of a sense of the musicians playing together. Or sticking together. Can't remember which now.
    Current Lash Up:

    TEAC VRDS 701T > Sony TAE1000ESD > Krell KSA50S > JM Labs Focal Electra 926.

  7. #77
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,012
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by montesquieu View Post
    I've had quite a few bits of kit modded over the years with fancy caps, foo wiring, 'special' NOS valves etc but nowadays I've become much more skeptical. Yes in principle we know that mass-manufactured kit is often value engineered with cheapest possible bits used where the manufacturer thought they could get away with it. In such cases it might seem obvious to use better wire or caps but it has to be done with extreme caution otherwise changes can have unintended consequences.

    Where I would draw the line is making actual changes to circuits, cone mass, cap values etc - this is almost always bad news unless it's done by someone who really understands at a deep level what's going on. (I feel shame here in having a decade or so ago paid quite a lot of cash to have a pretty rare SJS Model Two preamp 'improved', only to have Simon undo the mods later for a future owner and find that an expensive bit of Kondo signal cable had been run underneath a mains transformer resulting in a small but definite hum in one channel. This was restored to original along with removal of a forest of expensive but unnecessary bypass caps. I guess I'm not the only one that has this sort of 'live and learn' story thinking back).

    These days, on the whole, I prefer to upgrade (as in replace) kit when funds allow rather than 'improve it' - on the basis only of auditioning it first. A rather more reliable way of improving the overall system.
    Good advice, Tom. I completely occur. When modifying anything, you have to have a goal in mind of what you want, and a coherent plan of action on how to achieve it, otherwise there's a very good chance of failure, and ending up worse off than you were when you started.

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & reg mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat/Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight/Isonoe feet & boots/Ortofon RS-212D/Denon DL-103GL in Denon PCL-300 headshell with Funk Firm Houdini/Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp/Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new, by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. LDR Stereo Coffee. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.


    Protect your HUMAN RIGHTS and REFUSE ANY *MANDATORY* VACCINE FOR COVID-19!

    Also **SAY NO** to unjust 'vaccine passports' or certificates, which are totally incompatible with a FREE society!!!


  8. #78
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,012
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

    Default

    Hi Will,

    Quote Originally Posted by Radford Revival View Post
    A good general rule of thumb is that to successfully modify a piece of equipment you need two criteria. One is you have to be as smart or smarter (in terms of electronics thinking) than the original designer of the equipment. The second being you need to establish what parameter or aspect of the performance you want to improve. Otherwise you're just soldering in parts to feel good.
    Lol - I like that, and so true! I wouldn't dream of modifying anything at a fundamental level, such as you've outlined, as I simply don't have the necessary technical knowledge or skill set to do so - but I do have a very good pair of ears and a knack for discovering gear that has latent potential for exploiting!

    Therefore, having successfully identified a particular piece of kit (usually high-quality vintage) I think has the potential to be even better after some judicious modifications, I ask one of my EE friends to do the work [I'm lucky that I know some very knowledgeable people], and follow their advice as to what they consider is the best way of going about things.

    However, I'll be heavily involved in the selection of parts used, and unless given a good reason not to, whatever I fancy (and have paid for), which is electrically compatible, will be fitted. Quite often, with smaller projects, when it comes to component selection, it's simply a case of replacing like for like, in terms of electrical value

    Therefore, fitting the same value caps, only of better quality, into the same place in the circuit, which is pretty safe to do, and on most commercial equipment will result in a notable sonic improvement. That's what I've done with my Croft preamp, for example, with great success (using Obbligato Teflon Tin-Foil coupling caps, Z-Foil resistors and Mundorf Tubecaps, at key points in the circuit).

    Sonically, it now performs like a piece of equipment costing many, many times what I paid for it initially or have spent on it since, ultimately maximising 'SPPV', which for me is what it's all about - and many other areas of my system have been successfully modified in exactly the same way

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & reg mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat/Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight/Isonoe feet & boots/Ortofon RS-212D/Denon DL-103GL in Denon PCL-300 headshell with Funk Firm Houdini/Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp/Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new, by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. LDR Stereo Coffee. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.


    Protect your HUMAN RIGHTS and REFUSE ANY *MANDATORY* VACCINE FOR COVID-19!

    Also **SAY NO** to unjust 'vaccine passports' or certificates, which are totally incompatible with a FREE society!!!


  9. #79
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: NE England

    Posts: 4,173
    I'm Jez.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Marco View Post
    Good advice, Tom. I completely occur. When modifying anything, you have to have a goal in mind of what you want, and a coherent plan of action on how to achieve it, otherwise there's a very good chance of failure, and ending up worse off than you were when you started.

    Marco.
    Unfortunately it isn't possible to do that.... One cannot decide, for example, to improve just/mainly the high treble... or the bass slam etc etc.
    Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)

    Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
    ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
    Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
    Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco

  10. #80
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,012
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

    Default

    I don't set out with that type of goal, Jez. For me, it's about increasing realism and musicality [that's the aim], so that when I listen, instruments and voices sound as palpable and as convincing as possible.

    If the by-product of that is improved bass or treble, then so be it

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & reg mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat/Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight/Isonoe feet & boots/Ortofon RS-212D/Denon DL-103GL in Denon PCL-300 headshell with Funk Firm Houdini/Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp/Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new, by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. LDR Stereo Coffee. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.


    Protect your HUMAN RIGHTS and REFUSE ANY *MANDATORY* VACCINE FOR COVID-19!

    Also **SAY NO** to unjust 'vaccine passports' or certificates, which are totally incompatible with a FREE society!!!


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