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Thread: Dual 1229 and CL240 Help!

  1. #11
    Join Date: Jul 2017

    Location: Berlin

    Posts: 5
    I'm Graeme.

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    Thanks DSJR I've ordered the lubracation kit and steurepimpel so I'll get to work on this when they arrive.

    I removed the platter, and powered up.

    The strobe light is on, and the motor is turning but the idler wheel doesn't move or rotate.
    If the speed selector is jammed would this stop the idler, or is this a separate problem do you think?

  2. #12
    Join Date: May 2008

    Location: A Strangely Isolated Place in Suffolk with far away trains passing by...

    Posts: 14,359
    I'm David.

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    The speed selector is almost certainly glued up with dried grease. This in turn will prevent the idler bracket from engaging with the motor properly. When the strobe light comes on, does the motor spin? The idler bracket should be free to move back and forth as well as up and own to engage the relevant steps on the motor.

    PLEASE join VE and download the service manuals from their 'Library.' The whole idler and speed assembly is clearly described and drawn out there. To summarise, there's a shaft upon which the idler 'bracket' moves up and down and pivots sideways to engage and disengage from the motor pulley. If this has seized up, the idler won't move at all, hence your problem.

    PLEASE don't use WD40 to lubricate these decks... I have used a switch cleaning solvent spray (not the lubricating spray) in the past, VERY carefully directed and this has often cleared the worst of the old goo enough to free things off. Not a proper repair though..

    The steuerpimpel crumbles away and the arm won't move automatically without it. The driving plate on the main lever needs friction on the one hand and grease on the other - not as unhappy a situation as it sounds as it's reliable for twenty or more years of regular use before the grease dries and the pimpel crumbles away.

    The mechanism looks daunting but is in fact fairly simple. Watching it cycle tells you much and most auto Duals from the early 10** series are related. The main issues with the 1229/1229Q and 1249 can be the dual-height tonearm adjustment and attention here is VITAL if parts aren't to be accidentally broken, necessitating a tonearm removal.

    I'm going on too much as usual. All this may seem a bit much if you're not that mechanically minded, but the rewards are there if you take TIME and CARE to do these jobs. I assure you, a Pioneer PL-12D ain't in the same ball park

    http://dualcan.com/

    For the below, you probably need a step by step tutorial. The pics may be of help though

    https://www.dropbox.com/sh/77x184y9s...7DlObXuBa?dl=0

    https://www.dropbox.com/sh/77x184y9s...229+PF+112.JPG
    Tear down these walls; Cut the ties that held me
    Crying out at the top of my voice; Tell me now if you can hear me

  3. #13
    Join Date: Jul 2017

    Location: Berlin

    Posts: 5
    I'm Graeme.

    Default

    Thanks DSJR Ive joined and downloaded, so I'm all set to go when the lubrication pack arrives from Dualfred!

    Thanks again, for all your suggestions and links.

    The photos will come in very handy when I try to put it all back together!

    I'll let you know how I get on.

  4. #14
    Join Date: May 2008

    Location: A Strangely Isolated Place in Suffolk with far away trains passing by...

    Posts: 14,359
    I'm David.

    Default

    Oiling motor bearings -

    I was scared of prising the two motor 'shells' apart to get at the bearings on my 1019 which has a similar constructed motor to the 1229. A small 'reverse' circlip pliers does the job and the shells popped apart without too much hassle as long as you do a little on each side. The 1019 motor here had dried lubricant and wear on the bottom thrust pad would have ensued had I not done something about it. I didn't go as far as to totally strip out the bronze bushings, but I did clean the shafts and used a clock oil for lubrication top and bottom. Time will tell as regards the oil not being suitable, but on reassembly and centring up the rotor bearings (I didn't need a mallet to do this , the rotor now spins very freely and seems to vibrate less in the process, making the drive even quieter through the stylus...

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/iunh5z2zqo...rives.pdf?dl=0
    Tear down these walls; Cut the ties that held me
    Crying out at the top of my voice; Tell me now if you can hear me

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