I imagine it must take some care, attention and dedication to make good kit sound awful. I don't have the patience, I just pick up what hopefully are bargains and cross my fingers.
Mind you I would love to have some MBL or TAD speakers.
Current: [P20] Roon/Tidal > Custom PC> Chevron Paradox NDF16 > Phast Pre > Neuro. 686 > Tannoy Berkley (RFC tweaks)
I'm not so sure about the relevance of everyone hearing things differently myself... We all have continuous reference to real life sound with which to compare recorded sound and decide if it seems the same or not, the human voice being the most easy to compare I guess as we hear real people speak and sometimes singing on a daily basis.
Lets say I hear sounds around 3KHz louder than you do. That's going to happen whether live or recorded so I'd still be equally able to compare the two.
Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)
Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco
Nice argument Jez. I like that and agree.
It is impossible for anything digital to sound analogue, because it isn't analogue!
^ me too, good one Jez.
Location: East Riding of Yorkshire these days
Posts: 4,779
I'm Shaun.
A person's Hi-Fi should reproduce music in a way that gives pleasure to the owner/listener otherwise as already said, why bother...? If this were the case there would simply be no point. If the closest approach to the original sound is what it is all about for you then so be it, for me it is only about hearing the music in a way that gives me satisfaction and therefore pleasure. Technically my sound system is classed as Hi-Fi but I very much doubt it is truly accurate in the way a live acoustic set would be, I do not though listen to acoustic music so where then does the term accurate come in...?
Good point. If you listen mostly to artificially created (electronic) music, for instance, then the traditional notion of 'accurate' goes out of the window, so how can one then use it as an arbiter for such?
For me, it's dead simple: the better my hi-fi system reproduces the real sound of instruments and voices (as perceived by my ears), the more I enjoy listening to recorded music featuring such. Ultimately, it's all about experiencing my notion of musical realism, and therefore what's heard in that respect, can only ever be judged subjectively by me, or perhaps also by others whose notion of such is similar.
Therefore, the enjoyment I derive from my hi-fi system is directly proportional to how well it achieves the above. I'd imagine that it's the same for most people
Marco.
Main System
Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & reg mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat/Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight/Isonoe feet & boots/Ortofon RS-212D/Denon DL-103GL in Denon PCL-300 headshell with Funk Firm Houdini/Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.
Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp/Denon AU-310 SUT.
Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.
CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.
Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new, by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.
Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. LDR Stereo Coffee. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.
Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.
Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.
Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.
Protect your HUMAN RIGHTS and REFUSE ANY *MANDATORY* VACCINE FOR COVID-19!
Also **SAY NO** to unjust 'vaccine passports' or certificates, which are totally incompatible with a FREE society!!!
Location: cheltenham
Posts: 746
I'm matt.
I've heard loads of accurate systems - They all sounded different to each other though...
'Accuracy' is an enviable goal, but realistically one that is never truly achieved by any hi-fi system, so the best one can hope for, when reproducing recorded music on our systems, is a convincing facsimile of such, based on our notion of what we consider as 'real'.
Marco.
Main System
Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & reg mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat/Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight/Isonoe feet & boots/Ortofon RS-212D/Denon DL-103GL in Denon PCL-300 headshell with Funk Firm Houdini/Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.
Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp/Denon AU-310 SUT.
Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.
CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.
Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new, by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.
Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. LDR Stereo Coffee. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.
Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.
Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.
Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.
Protect your HUMAN RIGHTS and REFUSE ANY *MANDATORY* VACCINE FOR COVID-19!
Also **SAY NO** to unjust 'vaccine passports' or certificates, which are totally incompatible with a FREE society!!!
Location: cheltenham
Posts: 746
I'm matt.
For me and I'd imagine most people, the midrange Is the most Important part of the frequency range. I can enjoy listening to a portable radio If I like the music that's playing. The best mids I've heard were from Jerrys MBLs and some mega expensive horn speakers I heard at Scalford. It's the kind of thing you wouldn't understand unless you heard It for yourself. Vocals were eerily 3d like and hung In mid air between the speakers. Was It accurate? I don't know but It sounded good. And as a wise man once said "If It sounds good, It Is good".