Ditto (on all counts)!
Marco.
Ditto (on all counts)!
Marco.
Main System
Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & reg mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat/Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight/Isonoe feet & boots/Ortofon RS-212D/Denon DL-103GL in Denon PCL-300 headshell with Funk Firm Houdini/Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.
Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp/Denon AU-310 SUT.
Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.
CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.
Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new, by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.
Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. LDR Stereo Coffee. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.
Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.
Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.
Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.
Protect your HUMAN RIGHTS and REFUSE ANY *MANDATORY* VACCINE FOR COVID-19!
Also **SAY NO** to unjust 'vaccine passports' or certificates, which are totally incompatible with a FREE society!!!
Thanks Marco; appreciated. I have already followed this - up to a point. All my hi-fi stuff comes off two switch-less sockets. One to the amp, one to a mains conditioner that then feeds everything else. Unfortunately this means, besides all the non-amp hi-fi stuff, a BT router, a NAS and Apple AirPort Extreme with a Hitachi HD (for TimeMachine) and a Mi-Genie Central Heating controller (controlled via an app so needs the router connected. I don't have any other nearby sockets to separately feed these non-hi-fi options.Any advice greatly appreciated, especially as I feel many others may be in the same boat. I hope this explains why I may appear to have a bee in my bonnet about which of these wall-marts are injecting the most noise.
BW
Richard.
Location: Manchester, UK
Posts: 159
I'm Luke.
My situation exactly! Ok, I know it's not exactly HiFi, but I listen from a Pi with a DAC board on top, and a D class amp (TPA3116). My router sits right next to it by necessity as it's also where the BT socket is, so that's three SMPSs right next to the Pi.
I have heard of folk who change over to linear and or something like the IFI ipower units with good results, but that would get more costly than I would want.
Hence I would be very interested in better than standard SMPSs that can be found for less than £50 a piece, or a single unit that could deliver cleaner power to all three, if such a thing exists?!
By and large, mains issues are another myth. Oh and some mains regenerators ARE SMPS!
Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)
Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco
Main System
Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & reg mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat/Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight/Isonoe feet & boots/Ortofon RS-212D/Denon DL-103GL in Denon PCL-300 headshell with Funk Firm Houdini/Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.
Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp/Denon AU-310 SUT.
Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.
CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.
Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new, by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.
Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. LDR Stereo Coffee. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.
Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.
Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.
Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.
Protect your HUMAN RIGHTS and REFUSE ANY *MANDATORY* VACCINE FOR COVID-19!
Also **SAY NO** to unjust 'vaccine passports' or certificates, which are totally incompatible with a FREE society!!!
Someone mentioned a dedicated ring circuit.
Does this really help, given that such a circuit is still affixed to the consumer unit and therefore, presumably, picks up all the shite that is there anyway?
Any anyway what is the difference (audio wise) between a dedicated ring circuit vs a radial circuit or indeed a spur?
I hope I have not set yet another hare running (we are already up to page 20 on my original question).
Current: [P20] Roon/Tidal > Custom PC> Chevron Paradox NDF16 > Phast Pre > Neuro. 686 > Tannoy Berkley (RFC tweaks)
Current: [P20] Roon/Tidal > Custom PC> Chevron Paradox NDF16 > Phast Pre > Neuro. 686 > Tannoy Berkley (RFC tweaks)
Non of the above will make any difference whatsoever.... but I have no doubt 90% of the other answers you get will (wrongly IMO) say it will make a huge improvement. It's yet another area of hi fi where the power of suggestion combined with placebo effect and expectation bias are amplified by the echo chamber of the internet and we get to yet another situation of "yeah everyone knows that's really important and has to be addressed if you are serious about your sound" without there being any basis in fact.
Check out that diagram in a previous post of how mains current is used by equipment... It comes in in the form of sharp spikes at the voltage peaks of the mains waveform when the rectifier conducts. The mains is only (via a step down transformer) connected for between about 1 and 20% of the time (increases with current draw) and only at (or close to) the peaks so it doesn't really matter how distorted the waveform is! Not that adding a spur etc is likely to have any effect on that anyway unless you're running a big arc welding set on your ring main...
A synchronous motor in a TT, if powered directly from the mains, will be effected by mains distortion, hence pure sine wave TT PSU's can help.
Discuss for next 20 pages....
Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)
Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco
Location: Leeds
Posts: 164
I'm Dave.