Location: North Island New Zealand
Posts: 1,757
I'm Chris.
Its easy, just find a multimeter and measure without any signal leads connected, from input to output
then output to ground, where the resistances greet each other - the resistance measurement then shown
is the passive devices, true impedance. Each channel Left and Right should ideally be the same.
Where you may be confused is then attaching signal leads, but a passives true impedance is quite simple
reflective of its L pad resistances intersecting, It is after all a resistive divider, in this case variable.
Noting variations occur where they intersect with log or linear types, but at some point they indeed intersect.
Last edited by Light Dependant Resistor; 29-06-2017 at 13:59.
Last edited by struth; 29-06-2017 at 14:11.
Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)
Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco
So it's fine to repeatedly and regularly mislead AOS members with blatantly incorrect falsehoods shrouded in a bit of technical sounding gobbledygook to make it sound plausible is it? "False news" (to make it topical) welcome but calling it out and ridiculing it not? If it were up to me I'd do something about a trade member repeatedly proffering false information and advice which is very definitely WRONG... or does he have to advise sticking a finger in a mains socket before anything happens?
Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)
Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco
you know rules jez. similar to football.. play the ball
Regards,
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I've said it before and I'll say it again: democracy simply-doesn't-work.... ..... ...... ...... ................... ..... ..... ..... ..... .....
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Oh my god! There's nothing wrong with the bidet is there?
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Location: North Island New Zealand
Posts: 1,757
I'm Chris.
Location: KY - Scotland
Posts: 5,470
I'm Mike.
Thanks for all the info, I only asked to see if there was anything better that could give me headphone out and remote, but having thought about it and seen that the Slagle has 2 outputs it would seem the best option for my needs would be too add a headphone amp to the spare output on the Slagle and forego the remote.
The EWA Q20-P would no doubt be ideal but I don't buy new nowadays and would rather look for value in used items, not that I think that the Q20 is poor value, it's very good, I've not heard it at home yet.
I'll have a hunt around for a headphone amp to try out and see if that's the way to go.