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Thread: What Pre Amp to go for?

  1. #1
    Join Date: Mar 2014

    Location: KY - Scotland

    Posts: 2,499
    I'm Mike.

    Default What Pre Amp to go for?

    Hi,

    I am on the lookout for a Pre Amp to go with my EWA M-50 Power Amp. I am currently using Ali's Slagle Passive Pre which is superb, and I can keep as long as I like with the probability of purchase, but I'm wondering if there is anything out there that isn't too expensive ( under £1000 S/H ) that would compete with it, or possibly better it ( not easy I bet ).

    Would need to include a minimum of 3 inputs, Headphone out and remote control ( no line of site )

    The Croft Epoch I had a short time ago was nice, but the gain was all wrong, I think the M-50 needs 22k rather than 47k, is that right?

    Jerry's Bel Canto Pre3 looks good but it has green led screen, but I'm not keen on green lol.

    I wonder if it would easier to connect a headphone amp to the Slagle output? Then forget about the remote?

    Your thoughts, recommendations much appreciated.

    Mike.

  2. #2
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: Southall, West London

    Posts: 29,434
    I'm Geoff.

    Default

    Why not ask Colin for recommendations?
    Mr. Tact!

    Main system: MMs/ADCs/Low output MC's/One rare Japanese SUT/One scarce British phono stage/various tonearms/hefty Japanese DD TT and hefty Japanese BD TT and small British BD TT. 4 CD players/2 jitter buster/2 DACs/Valve buffer. TVC stepped attenuator or valve pre-amp or solid state pre-amp. Current dumping power-amp or either of two Class A SS power-amp or Class A EL34 valve monos or big Japanese (part Class A) integrated. Big dual concentric speakers/Smaller dual concentric speakers/Two way British compacts and full range speakers, amongst others. And too much more to list!

  3. #3
    Join Date: Mar 2014

    Location: KY - Scotland

    Posts: 2,499
    I'm Mike.

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    Quote Originally Posted by walpurgis View Post
    Why not ask Colin for recommendations?
    I've heard his Q20 Pre and it's excellent but over my budget. I just wanted to pick a few brains in here, sitting here bored watching the rain and thought I'd ask 😊

  4. #4
    Join Date: Oct 2016

    Location: Bolton, England

    Posts: 761
    I'm Andrew.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeyb View Post
    The Croft Epoch I had a short time ago was nice, but the gain was all wrong, I think the M-50 needs 22k rather than 47k, is that right?
    I'm not sure what you mean by that. Can you elaborate?

  5. #5
    Join Date: Mar 2014

    Location: KY - Scotland

    Posts: 2,499
    I'm Mike.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RothwellAudio View Post
    I'm not sure what you mean by that. Can you elaborate?
    Not really cos I don't understand it, Colin mentioned a figure of 22 when I said the Croft had to be turned almost all the way up to get to semi decent volume, I think he said the M50 likes to see 22 or something, seeing as I don't understand this sort of thing I might be completely wrong lol

  6. #6
    Join Date: Mar 2016

    Location: Barnet, london UK

    Posts: 421
    I'm Adam.

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    Hi Mike
    give David a shout at AD Audio (in the trade section) he is building some serious Pre amps, and you won't find better for the money.
    He is very flexible to ones needs and budget. You won't be disappointed.
    "lack of passion is fatal"
    LP12, Kore, Lingo2, Aro, SKale / DV XX2Mk2 / WAD 300b Power Modded, Mesh Plate Valves / David Coe AD Audio 'Satchmo' Pre & Phono / Hashimoto HM-7 SUT / AD Audio 'Little Gate' Jfet MC Cartridge Amp / Tannoy 12" MGs in Chatsworth size cabs / Speaker Cables: Duelund DCA16GA / Rpi3 & Digi + pro / SW1X Audio Design USB-SPdif / SW1X Audio Design DAC 1 Signature / Interconnects: Duelund DCA20GA home brew / SW1X Audio Phono SPDIF AERO 6 / David Coe AD Audio Silver USB / Synology NAS Drive / Tidal HiFi

  7. #7
    Join Date: Aug 2011

    Location: Coventry, England UK

    Posts: 423
    I'm Simon.

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    I think the 22k figure is the input impedance (going by the specs I see on the EWA site). What are your sources (solid state/tube)? Maybe try a passive?

  8. #8
    Join Date: Mar 2008

    Location: Dunfermline, Scotland, UK

    Posts: 12,276
    I'm inthescottishmafia.

    Default

    The Slagle is a passive.
    There are times when you canít do the sensible thing, when you canít act like a responsible adult at all; you just have to do whatever insane thing comes into your head. When bad people do it they end up murderers, when good people do it they end up heroes, and when the rest of us do it we end up looking like total idiots. But whenís that ever stopped us?

  9. #9
    Join Date: Jul 2009

    Location: Snowdonia

    Posts: 343
    I'm Nial.

    Default

    If you like the Slagle, why not build one? Trannies off the site, box off ebay and the unquantifiable musical ecstasy of listening through something you've built!
    Nial.

    "Volume! Clarity! Bass! We must have bass!" He flailed his naked arms at the sky. "What's wrong with us? Are we goddam old ladies?"

    JVC/Victor QL-Y66F/mystery (Asak-like?) cartridge - lightly modded, Sony CDP-557 ESD, Technics ST-8077K, into Khozmo stepped attenuator passive pre , Luxkit z501, out to Tannoy Monitor Gold 12Ē/Decca ribbons/DIY no compromise cabinets Workshop low WAF system , Onkyo T9090ii, Yamaha DVD S-2700 into Wyred 4 Sound Remedy into Musical Fidelity V90 Dac into Homebrew S & B TX102 (Silver) based Transformer Volume Control and Luxkit Z504 out to lightly modded Urei 829/811A Monitors, JBL 2225H/Mission based subs, (Slightly)better-WAF-factor-than-the-rest living room system and about as near as I'll get to the midi/mini stacking aesthetic Technics ST-7300, Luxman L5, Sony CDP-915E, Yamaha KX-390, JBL L40s

  10. #10
    Join Date: Sep 2013

    Location: North Island New Zealand

    Posts: 866
    I'm Chris.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Simon_LDT View Post
    I think the 22k figure is the input impedance (going by the specs I see on the EWA site). What are your sources (solid state/tube)? Maybe try a passive?
    With passive attenuators, the figure of merit is what is called true impedance,
    usually occurring close to half volume which is where the resistance from the
    source greets the resistance to ground. Where they intersect and the resulting
    resistance is the same, is the passives true impedance.

    This describes the most common form of Pad circuit which is a L pad
    namely a series resistance connects the source to the output, and a
    shunt resistance connects the output to ground,

    As with anything there are variations, and the terms linear and log
    can provide - in the case of log a steeper entry curve ie volume not
    commencing straight away. If it is your preference for volume to
    commence as near as practicable to off, then a linear response
    may be preferable to log.

    To save much forum research, 15k is generally agreed to be the
    preferred true impedance. ( DIY audio forum ). But 18k to 20k is also
    very good as well. Anything lower like 10k will start to change
    the dynamics of audio, and may appear a bit too dynamic suiting
    some music but not others. Hence slightly higher usually is preferable.

    While I am here, a common curly question is what is a passives output impedance ?
    The output impedance at best, is its true impedance, however if volume is
    placed at maximum then it will achieve connection from the source to the
    output with effectively no loss. Output impedance applying to passives
    is a misnomer, as they are not an active device.




    Hope this assists
    Last edited by Light Dependant Resistor; 29-06-2017 at 13:15.

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