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Thread: What Pre Amp to go for?

  1. #11
    RothwellAudio Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by Light Dependant Resistor View Post
    With passive attenuators, the figure of merit is what is called true impedance, usually occurring close to half volume which is where the resistance from the source greets the resistance to ground. Where they intersect and the resulting resistance is the same, is the passives true impedance.
    This is so far off standard electronic theory, accepted wisdom, and common usage that I urge anyone reading it to take it with very large pinch of salt.

  2. #12
    Join Date: Sep 2013

    Location: North Island New Zealand

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    I'm Chris.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RothwellAudio View Post
    This is so far off standard electronic theory, accepted wisdom, and common usage that I urge anyone reading it to take it with very large pinch of salt.
    Its easy, just find a multimeter and measure without any signal leads connected, from input to output
    then output to ground, where the resistances greet each other - the resistance measurement then shown
    is the passive devices, true impedance. Each channel Left and Right should ideally be the same.

    Where you may be confused is then attaching signal leads, but a passives true impedance is quite simple
    reflective of its L pad resistances intersecting, It is after all a resistive divider, in this case variable.
    Noting variations occur where they intersect with log or linear types, but at some point they indeed intersect.
    Last edited by Light Dependant Resistor; 29-06-2017 at 13:59.

  3. #13
    RothwellAudio Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by Light Dependant Resistor View Post
    Its easy, just find a multimeter and measure without any signal leads connected, from input to output
    then output to ground, where the resistances greet each other - the resistance measurement then shown
    is the passive devices true impedance.

    Where you may be confused is then attaching signal leads, but a passives true impedance is quite simple
    reflective of its L pad resistances intersecting,
    Nothing about what you said confuses me at all, but the terms you use will definitely mislead others.
    Figure of merit? Is a 20k pot twice as good as a 10k pot?

  4. #14
    Join Date: Oct 2012

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    I'm Jez.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RothwellAudio View Post
    This is so far off standard electronic theory, accepted wisdom, and common usage that I urge anyone reading it to take it with very large pinch of salt.
    Ha! Just went to next page to shoot the bollocks down in flames but you got there before me!

    deleted... dont attack the man jez please
    Last edited by struth; 29-06-2017 at 14:11.
    Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)

    Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
    ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
    Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
    Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco

  5. #15
    Join Date: May 2012

    Location: Toulouse, France

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    I'm Kevin.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeyb View Post
    Hi,

    I am on the lookout for a Pre Amp to go with my EWA M-50 Power Amp. I am currently using Ali's Slagle Passive Pre which is superb, and I can keep as long as I like with the probability of purchase, but I'm wondering if there is anything out there that isn't too expensive ( under £1000 S/H ) that would compete with it, or possibly better it ( not easy I bet ).

    Would need to include a minimum of 3 inputs, Headphone out and remote control ( no line of site )

    The Croft Epoch I had a short time ago was nice, but the gain was all wrong, I think the M-50 needs 22k rather than 47k, is that right?

    Jerry's Bel Canto Pre3 looks good but it has green led screen, but I'm not keen on green lol.

    I wonder if it would easier to connect a headphone amp to the Slagle output? Then forget about the remote?

    Your thoughts, recommendations much appreciated.

    Mike.
    A Q20P at £960 new, as it fits in your given budget.
    Kevin

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  6. #16
    Join Date: Oct 2012

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    I'm Jez.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Arkless Electronics View Post
    Ha! Just went to next page to shoot the bollocks down in flames but you got there before me!

    deleted... dont attack the man jez please
    So it's fine to repeatedly and regularly mislead AOS members with blatantly incorrect falsehoods shrouded in a bit of technical sounding gobbledygook to make it sound plausible is it? "False news" (to make it topical) welcome but calling it out and ridiculing it not? If it were up to me I'd do something about a trade member repeatedly proffering false information and advice which is very definitely WRONG... or does he have to advise sticking a finger in a mains socket before anything happens?
    Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)

    Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
    ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
    Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
    Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco

  7. #17
    Join Date: Feb 2013

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    you know rules jez. similar to football.. play the ball
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  8. #18
    Join Date: Jan 2009

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    I'm openingabottleofwine.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RothwellAudio View Post
    This is so far off standard electronic theory, accepted wisdom, and common usage that I urge anyone reading it to take it with very large pinch of salt.
    It reads as though it is written in 'Chinglish'. No salt needed, just an understanding that the term 'impedance' is simply that of the variable potentiometer used.
    Barry

  9. #19
    Join Date: Sep 2013

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    I'm Chris.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Barry View Post
    It reads as though it is written in 'Chinglish'. No salt needed, just an understanding that the term 'impedance' is simply that of the variable potentiometer used.
    And resistance is ? ...Answer - the real part of impedance exhibiting no phase shift between the voltage and current.

  10. #20
    Join Date: Mar 2014

    Location: KY - Scotland

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    I'm Mike.

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    Thanks for all the info, I only asked to see if there was anything better that could give me headphone out and remote, but having thought about it and seen that the Slagle has 2 outputs it would seem the best option for my needs would be too add a headphone amp to the spare output on the Slagle and forego the remote.

    The EWA Q20-P would no doubt be ideal but I don't buy new nowadays and would rather look for value in used items, not that I think that the Q20 is poor value, it's very good, I've not heard it at home yet.

    I'll have a hunt around for a headphone amp to try out and see if that's the way to go.

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