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Thread: TD 125 not in great shape

  1. #21
    Join Date: Sep 2011

    Location: Kilmarnock, Ayrshire, Scotland

    Posts: 275
    I'm stuart.

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    The springs just pull off, they're held in place by what appears to be a rubber solution glue. Before you pull them off, paint a mark on the springs (nail varnish is ideal) and take a photograph so you can replace them exactly where they need to go, else you'll be buggering around for hours trying to center the top plate when you put it back together. (1 dab on 1 spring 2 dabs on 2nd spring 3 dabs on 3rd spring then you'll get each one in it's original place and orientation which is the best place to start as they should then only need minor adjusting to get the bonce correct).
    If the sets of little grey washers have perished you can buy new ones from http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-NEW-WASH...wAAOSwl9BWKnva
    I have damped the top plate with dynamat in all the voids on the underside.
    The switches don't just pull off. You have to remove a tiny screw from underneath each switch. You'll need to remove the chassis from the plinth to access the screws.

  2. #22
    Join Date: Oct 2015

    Location: KL, Malaysia

    Posts: 168
    I'm shahrin.

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    Great tips Stuart, big thanks
    I ve ordered the washers.
    Sources: Thorens td124 mk2 / Graham 1.5 / V15 III, Thorens td124 mk2 / 3012 S2 / DL 103R
    Marantz CD63, Squeezebox Touch, EDO applet, Gieseler Klein DAC
    Phonostages: Cambridge, Project Tube Box II
    Amps: Sansui AU 111, AU70, AU 9500
    Speakers: Yamaha NS1000M, modded JBL L200 to 3 way, Rogers LS3 5A

  3. #23
    Join Date: Oct 2015

    Location: KL, Malaysia

    Posts: 168
    I'm shahrin.

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    I have removed the 3 springs from the top plate of the 125 , and was amazed at how well they seem to have fared after all these years (prob early 70s,as this is a 'mark I').
    They feel firm and the rubber 'bung' that fits on the wider end of each spring that then attaches to the top plate, is nice and soft.
    Even the washers on the other end are fine.

    There is no doubt that the aluminium top plate has a 'ring' to it .
    I cant seem to get Dynamat easily here in Malaysia.
    Was thinking if some heavy duty double sided tape (the thicker spongy type) and a suitable 'something' be stuck on to the bottom of the plate might do the trick.
    Can anyone suggest what that something might be ?
    I am aware that i wouldnt want to overdamp the thing.
    Any ideas will be welcome.
    Sources: Thorens td124 mk2 / Graham 1.5 / V15 III, Thorens td124 mk2 / 3012 S2 / DL 103R
    Marantz CD63, Squeezebox Touch, EDO applet, Gieseler Klein DAC
    Phonostages: Cambridge, Project Tube Box II
    Amps: Sansui AU 111, AU70, AU 9500
    Speakers: Yamaha NS1000M, modded JBL L200 to 3 way, Rogers LS3 5A

  4. #24
    Join Date: Jan 2009

    Location: Essex

    Posts: 15,658
    I'm openingabottleofwine.

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    Can you not try car engine bay damping panels? Something like that ought to be available in Malaysia.
    Have you listened to this month's choice in the Album Club?

    Barry

  5. #25
    Join Date: Oct 2016

    Location: Bolton, England

    Posts: 613
    I'm Andrew.

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    Quote Originally Posted by drSM View Post
    I am aware that i wouldnt want to overdamp the thing.
    Any ideas will be welcome.
    What would be the problem with "over" damping? I would want no resonance at all, therefore it couldn't be over-damped. I'd damp it till it was dead.

    Almost anything stuck to it - as long as it covered most of the surface area - would be effective. Two dissimilar materials bonded together will always damp each other, even if they're both resonant individually.

  6. #26
    Join Date: Mar 2017

    Location: Seaford UK

    Posts: 271
    I'm Dennis.

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    Sharin the perfect material for this is EDPM rubber sheet available on Ebay in various thicknesses..

    I have covered my speakers with it for both reasons of durability and damping. Glue it with a neoprene adhesive, eg Time Bond, but roughen the to be glued side first. You cannot overdamp these passive parts.

  7. #27
    Join Date: Oct 2015

    Location: KL, Malaysia

    Posts: 168
    I'm shahrin.

    Default

    Thanks for the advice and encouragement to damp
    I figured it might make the thing sonically dull .
    I have sourced something locally

    http://sgwangacc.com.my/STP-Gold-Aer...-Self-Adhesive
    Sources: Thorens td124 mk2 / Graham 1.5 / V15 III, Thorens td124 mk2 / 3012 S2 / DL 103R
    Marantz CD63, Squeezebox Touch, EDO applet, Gieseler Klein DAC
    Phonostages: Cambridge, Project Tube Box II
    Amps: Sansui AU 111, AU70, AU 9500
    Speakers: Yamaha NS1000M, modded JBL L200 to 3 way, Rogers LS3 5A

  8. #28
    Join Date: Oct 2015

    Location: KL, Malaysia

    Posts: 168
    I'm shahrin.

    Default

    Can someone indicate the volume of oil to put in the central casing of the platter shaft ?
    Sources: Thorens td124 mk2 / Graham 1.5 / V15 III, Thorens td124 mk2 / 3012 S2 / DL 103R
    Marantz CD63, Squeezebox Touch, EDO applet, Gieseler Klein DAC
    Phonostages: Cambridge, Project Tube Box II
    Amps: Sansui AU 111, AU70, AU 9500
    Speakers: Yamaha NS1000M, modded JBL L200 to 3 way, Rogers LS3 5A

  9. #29
    Join Date: Sep 2011

    Location: Kilmarnock, Ayrshire, Scotland

    Posts: 275
    I'm stuart.

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    My technique has been to fill it with ****some**** oil, wrap a tissue around the bearing housing (to catch any overflow) and insert the inner platter. Leave it a minute or 2, give it a spin with my hand, let it stop, remove inner platter, if the oil hasn't spilled over add a few more drops and repeat the above process until some oil has overflowed and been caught by the tissue. That way I know the bearing has the maximum amount of oil in it.

  10. #30
    Join Date: Feb 2013

    Location: W Lothian

    Posts: 34,466
    I'm Grant.

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    as killie says... i'd start with about a 1\3 full
    Regards,
    Grant ....
    Sometimes incompetence is useful. It helps you keep an open mind.
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