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Thread: Cheap upgrade for michell gyro

  1. #41
    Join Date: May 2016

    Location: north wales uk

    Posts: 143
    I'm peter.

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    and here is the last pictures as it is back in the box and that is the end , well for now the main spider is now 24mm thick and the base is the same





    if you are going to make a spider for the gyro you will have to make a spacer the same thickness so the belt will run properly to go under the motor foot , , it is well worth doing ,a piece of 350x350 x12 mm perspex is needed (use the off cut for the spacer )
    use the one off the gyro ,mark around it ,bandsaw it out (jigsaw) polish the edges and flame polish to finish , drill the 3holes for the feet using the original gyro spider as a guide , , stick it together with double sided tape and then you have a laminated gyro base, no need to drill and tap the holes for the suspension in the one you have made, as they are in the orginal one ,
    cheers
    peter

  2. #42
    Join Date: May 2016

    Location: north wales uk

    Posts: 143
    I'm peter.

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    Hi i forgot to add buy some small spike protectors the ones with the rubber underneath , for about 12 or buy some 1.5mm rubber sheet , 2.50p cut out some pads and place them under the feet to stop the gyro /orbe from moving around , do not get thicker ,
    special plastic feet will raise the platter ,the belt will not run properly on a gyro you will have to relevel everything, I use spike protectors which have been drilled through the centre so only the rubber on the bottom of them stop the deck from moving , you can just about get away with 1.5,
    I like the trick with the spike protectors that have been drilled out the rubber on them stops the deck from moving ,but the foot sits in spike protector ,

  3. #43
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: Southall, West London

    Posts: 30,113
    I'm Geoff.

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    I don't get this. Spikes are for coupling to a hard surface beneath the deck. Rubber is for decoupling, so why use spikes? Maybe I've misunderstood the above description?
    Mr. Tact!

    "when common sense, logic and plausibility are ruled out. All that remain are lies and foolishness"


    Gear: MMs/ADCs/Low output MC's/One rare Japanese SUT/one scarce British phono stage/various tonearms/two hefty Japanese DD TT's/hefty Japanese BD TT/smaller Japanese BD TT and small British BD TT. One CD transport/3 CD players/2 jitter buster/2 DACs/Valve buffer. One MD deck. One tuner. Two TVC pre-amps/two valve pre-amps/solid state pre-amp/passive pre-amp. Current dumping power-amp or either of two Class A SS power-amp or Class A EL34 valve monos or big Japanese (part Class A) integrated. Big dual concentric speakers/Smaller dual concentric speakers/two way British compacts and full range speakers, amongst others. And too much more to list!

  4. #44
    Join Date: May 2016

    Location: north wales uk

    Posts: 143
    I'm peter.

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    Hi You are correct , but in this case the spike protectors have been drilled through so the so of the foot can then go through to the rubber underneith so it looks better than a piece of rubber which then stops the deck from moving if you left them as spike protectors on a gyro the belt will be out of alignment with the platter , but not on an orbe as that does not have Drive Grooves Like the platter on a gyro , so you could just buy 3 small spike protectors 13 for the ORBE but male sure they have the rubber under neath them and not green felt ,
    ,



    it is better than adding plastic feet or you can just buy 1.5mm rubber to stop the deck from moving ,

    i hope this helps
    Last edited by gwernaffield; 22-11-2017 at 13:23.

  5. #45
    Join Date: May 2016

    Location: north wales uk

    Posts: 143
    I'm peter.

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    so now the deck is decoupled ,held by the friction off the rubber and did not cost 20+ pounds to do , or just use a piece of rubber 1mm-1.5mm. at 2.50 .i think it looks better than just rubber , it is also decoupled in the following ways , the spiders have 1mm gasket made to decouple them , and the feet have 2mm O-rings in the grove cut by Michell ,
    The arm board sits on a rubber gasket then the plastic spacer and a rubber gasket , the bolts used to hold the arm board on are nylon , and the bolts used to keep the bottom spiders and feet are nylon, The bolts in the head shell are nylon , The arm uses 4 o-rings in the base part ,and 2 o-rings in the bridge part and 2 x .5mm gaskets to the bottom of the bridge , now that is decoupled as well,
    so i cannot think of anything else to add , that would be cheap to do ,
    all the above can be done without remaking the entire chasee ,somehow adding weight to the gyro platter and keeping the looks , but not to drill , change the deck in any way , all the Mods done do not need a lot of money , and don’t require you to drill or add plastic padding ,sand, etc , they all work ,

    The only ones that will cost a lot of money will be the making of a new foot for the motor to make the motor higher to take the spiders,
    The arm board made of carbon fibre 120
    Enjoy
    Last edited by gwernaffield; 22-11-2017 at 16:26. Reason: added more

  6. #46
    Join Date: May 2016

    Location: north wales uk

    Posts: 143
    I'm peter.

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    motor is now complete with all the mods , now weighs in at 2.93kg ,


    the deck has 4 spiders and a base , the base is about 36mm thick now with the 2 spiders added , and the main spider is 24mm thick ,laminated and bolted to gether and decoupled from the 36mm base

  7. #47
    Join Date: May 2016

    Location: north wales uk

    Posts: 143
    I'm peter.

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    Hi All the spiders are all off a orbe, if you try this you would need to make the base of the motor thicker or get a spacer made to fit the bottom of the motor pod to keep the correct belt height ,
    Last edited by gwernaffield; 07-12-2017 at 21:10.

  8. #48
    Join Date: Jan 2013

    Location: North East

    Posts: 1,384
    I'm Alan.

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    DIY TT MOTOR PLINTH : Take an old big magnet kef b200 speaker

    [IMG]GYRO 1 by alan moon, on Flickr[/IMG]

    Remove the magnet

    [IMG]GYRO 2 by alan moon, on Flickr[/IMG]
    [IMG]GYRO 3 by alan moon, on Flickr[/IMG]

    use one of the long screws to push the top plate off

    [IMG]GYRO 4 by alan moon, on Flickr[/IMG]

    clean up the plate with 800 wet and dry paper

    [IMG]GYRO 5 by alan moon, on Flickr[/IMG]

    polish the plate and adhere some rubber feet on the bottom

    [IMG]GYRO 6 by alan moon, on Flickr[/IMG]

    and voila..you have a plinth..(which just happens to be the exact size of the motor housing) to raise the motor to the correct height..the belt now running on the second groove of the platter

    [IMG]GYRO 7 by alan moon, on Flickr[/IMG]
    'ANSOM IN THE SUMMER..'ORIBBLE IN THE WINTER

    Cambridge Audio stream magic 6, Seagate nas drive, Sony X559ES CD Player, Michell Gyrodec SE, SME309, London pro., Primare R32, Musical Fidelity A5, Shanling dac 50, Roksan Darius speakers, Kef Calinda speakers, Target R1's, Atacama Equinox.

  9. #49
    Join Date: Oct 2008

    Location: Glasgowshire

    Posts: 6,189
    I'm availableforweddingsAndBarmitzvas.

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    Hardcore!
    I have hifi 'n stuff.


  10. #50
    Join Date: May 2016

    Location: north wales uk

    Posts: 143
    I'm peter.

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    add some weight to the inside of the tube , to stop it moving , i think there is about 30mm gap or more before the motor will touch , that will add the weight to stop the motor moving , any thing heavy will do , make sure the motor tube is central to the chasse , i like the fix , also check the bounce , if it is incorrect you are proabley touching the motor tube ,also add the support with the doughnut or pipe insulation or anything that can suport the motor properly , as michell are trying to find a way to do this , Foam pipe insulation has been intalled by another member ,
    also one of the reasons the belt may be out of alignment is the bounce you have to get , orginaly the motor was screwed to the chasse the belt i think would of beed in the correct position ,
    then it was put into the motor pod , this means unless you are spot on with the set up the belt will always be out of alignment , due to the way you have to level and get the bounce correct , it is not a problem on the ORBE due to the ORBE's platter design (no Groves for the belt ) hence the great difference when fitted to the gyro to make the gorbe, if you can get the belt to run correctly their is no need for the upgrade , hence the need for some adjustment on the motor base, or add spacers , the reason i needed the extra was the deck is a Odyssey 2004 , which is part Orbe , i.e base , chasse, and then gyro , platter , motor , bearing , it had one spider and a base , i had problems keeping the belt on due to the design , so i just went a bit further ,and added 3 more spiders and the base , so now it has a base that is 36mm thick , and the top spider is 24mm, the motor had the spacers made by a friend , at mates rates,
    i have looked at several gyros and the belt always seems not level , this must have an effect on the belt noise that must be transmitted into the platter , Mad MOON has found a way to do this with out spending a fortune if you have an old speaker try it, it will make a difference,
    Last edited by gwernaffield; Yesterday at 11:26.

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