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Thread: Yamaha ns1000m

  1. #71
    Join Date: Jan 2009

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    Default Yamaha ns1000m

    Nice job those Jamie - hopefully they sound significantly better. You probably could sell some as rigid NS1000M stands are not easy to get. Did you also turn the spikes for them? The balls on mine are actually stainless steel but you can buy black Delrin ones. I also use a Delrin puck between the ball and the speaker with taller ones at the front to impart 2.5 degrees of tilt.
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  2. #72
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: Staffordshire, England

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    I'm Martin.

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    Looks superb. Outstanding job on the stands.
    Current Lash Up:

    TEAC VRDS 701T > Sony TAE1000ESD > Krell KSA50S > JM Labs Focal Electra 926.

  3. #73
    Join Date: Sep 2014

    Location: brighton uk.

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    I'm jamie.

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    thanks ,yes i turned the spikes,the hard way without a lathe!
    they do sound much better,i have read about your pucks/hip joints over on homebuilt hifi,a good idea.
    i do plan to get either metal or delrin balls,the ones i used are wood as i had them to hand.
    whats the theory behind the tilting back,could you explain please.i sit about 2.3 meters away from mine,would i notice a difference?
    My System
    John Wood KT88 Amp.
    Paradise Phono Stage
    Sony TTS-8000 Turntable.
    PMAT-1010 MK6 Tonearm.
    Ortofon Cadenza Bronze
    Sony X555ES Cd Player
    Yamaha NS1000m Speakers

  4. #74
    Join Date: Feb 2012

    Location: Falun, Sweden

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    I'm Mike.

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    Fantastic job Jamie! They look very, very nice!
    My own are made from wood and show definitive signs of amateurism!

  5. #75
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: N E Kent

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    I'm Geoff.

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    If you want cheap, substantial threaded ball ends. Use car track rod ends and cut the casing off. Just cut most of the way through and split them with a chisel. I've used these in the past for various things. You can pick them up for a couple of quid a go if you're lucky.
    It is impossible for anything digital to sound analogue, because it isn't analogue!

  6. #76
    Join Date: May 2016

    Location: Birmingham, U.K

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    I'm Taz.

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    Very nice stands you made there mate

  7. #77
    Join Date: Jan 2009

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    Quote Originally Posted by jamie123 View Post
    thanks ,yes i turned the spikes,the hard way without a lathe!
    Ha yeah, I guess that was with the threaded bar in the chuck of a drill against a disk sander - does work well though.

    Quote Originally Posted by jamie123 View Post
    they do sound much better,i have read about your pucks/hip joints over on homebuilt hifi,a good idea.
    i do plan to get either metal or delrin balls,the ones i used are wood as i had them to hand.
    whats the theory behind the tilting back,could you explain please.i sit about 2.3 meters away from mine,would i notice a difference?
    There are two ideas behind tilting them back; 1/ it brings the drive units closer to being time aligned and 2/ it means the listening axis is moved to be between the mid and tweeter which is optimal for the NS-1000M.

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  8. #78
    Join Date: Sep 2014

    Location: brighton uk.

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    I'm jamie.

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    Quote Originally Posted by YNWaN View Post
    Ha yeah, I guess that was with the threaded bar in the chuck of a drill against a disk sander - does work well though.



    There are two ideas behind tilting them back; 1/ it brings the drive units closer to being time aligned and 2/ it means the listening axis is moved to be between the mid and tweeter which is optimal for the NS-1000M.
    lol yep you've guessed it,i stuck a nut on the threaded rod to act as a stop to do the remove the thread nice and even.

    what ever tilting them back does it has improved them a lot,i have them at about 1.5 degrees,it seems to have had an affect on separation between instruments,they are clearly defined. does this follow your findings?
    My System
    John Wood KT88 Amp.
    Paradise Phono Stage
    Sony TTS-8000 Turntable.
    PMAT-1010 MK6 Tonearm.
    Ortofon Cadenza Bronze
    Sony X555ES Cd Player
    Yamaha NS1000m Speakers

  9. #79
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: NE England

    Posts: 4,173
    I'm Jez.

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    Yammies and Signifers... both very good speakers... similar price new IIRC... so which is best then Jamie?
    Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)

    Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
    ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
    Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
    Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco

  10. #80
    Join Date: Sep 2014

    Location: brighton uk.

    Posts: 4,737
    I'm jamie.

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    Well I'd say the yammies take it with shear clarity and detail,signifiers have better bass I'd say but again not the detail of the ns1000's
    My System
    John Wood KT88 Amp.
    Paradise Phono Stage
    Sony TTS-8000 Turntable.
    PMAT-1010 MK6 Tonearm.
    Ortofon Cadenza Bronze
    Sony X555ES Cd Player
    Yamaha NS1000m Speakers

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