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Thread: Yamaha ns1000m

  1. #1
    Join Date: Sep 2014

    Location: brighton uk.

    Posts: 2,678
    I'm jamie.

    Default Yamaha ns1000m

    These will be with me on Friday ,
    Hopefully all the drivers work lol.
    So what can I expect? Any tips on the mid/hf settings?
    My System/ Yamaha NS1000M speakers, Townsend Elite rock 2 turntable,,Alphason HR-100S-MCS tonearm,Ortofon Cadenza Black,Decca C4E cartridge ,Sony 700ES Amp,Sony X555ES CD Player, Nakamichi ca5 pre amp ,

  2. #2
    Join Date: Sep 2009

    Location: Bournemouth

    Posts: 4,091
    I'm Dan.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jamie123 View Post
    These will be with me on Friday ,
    Hopefully all the drivers work lol.
    So what can I expect? Any tips on the mid/hf settings?
    Dont take the mid ranges apart if they dont work....they have beryllium in them they should all work though depends how they have been used in the past hopefully not thrashed/
    Main System
    Musical Fidelity E100 Amplifier , Musical Fidelity E50 Tuner , Pioneer PDS 505 Precision CD Player , Pioneer PDS 703 CD Player , Audio Note ANJ/D Speakers Cables Van Del Hul Speaker Cables , Linn Interconnects , Cable Talk , Cambridge Yellow Pacific ,
    Vinyl -
    Rega Planer 2 with Rega Britain Green 250 Tonearm & Upgraded Van Den Hul Oil Bearing & Ortofon Super OM-10

    Second System:
    Technics - SU-C909U Pre-Amplifier & SE-A909S Power Amplifier & Technics ST-GT 1000 Tuner & Pioneer PDS 505 Precision player & Thorens TD-125 MK1 Turntable & SME 3009 Series 1 & Shure V15 Type II Cartridge & SME 2000 Plinth & Celestion A compact Speakers , Monster Speaker Cable , Cambridge Audio Atlantic Yellow Interconnects.

    Spare Kit
    Quad 33/303 , Creek 6060 , NAD 3020 Original , Cambridge P40 , Linn LK85 Power Amplifier , Luxman 507X , Pioneer SA 6300 , Linn Tukan , Sony ES 308 , Pioneer F-676 , Ariston RD40/80's Yamaha CR 820 , Sony TA 88 , Tannoy 615 MK2's.

  3. #3
    Join Date: Jan 2009

    Location: Sheffield - UK

    Posts: 5,799
    I'm Mark.

    Default Yamaha ns1000m

    Quote Originally Posted by jamie123 View Post
    These will be with me on Friday ,
    Hopefully all the drivers work lol.
    So what can I expect? Any tips on the mid/hf settings?
    Personally I find they sound best with the trim pots set to 0 or close to. I think on mine the tweeter is a fraction lower than 0 and the mid is flat 0. I would start with this and then experiment. I did hear some not long ago with the mid turned to -3dB and whilst the owner claims it gave the flattest frequency response I find this impossible to believe as the mid sounded extremely recessed and almost like it had been disconnected! (It's easy to make a mistake measuring speakers).

    I'm not sure why you are being given the advice above. The drive units aren't intended to be dismantled and I'm sure you aren't intending to. However, unless you intend to grind the cones (both the mid and tweeter are pure beryllium) to a powder and inhale it you won't suffer beryllium poisoning.
    Last edited by YNWaN; 31-05-2017 at 13:50.

    100% Analogue

  4. #4
    Join Date: Sep 2009

    Location: Bournemouth

    Posts: 4,091
    I'm Dan.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by YNWaN View Post
    Personally I find they sound best with the trim pots set to 0 or close to. I think on mine the tweeter is a fraction lower than 0 and the mid is flat 0. I would start with this and then experiment. I did hear some not long ago with the mid turned to -3dB and whilst the owner claims it gave the flattest frequency response I find this impossible to believe as the mid sounded extremely recessed and almost like it had been disconnected! (It's easy to make a mistake measuring speakers).

    I'm not sure why you are being given the advice above. The drive units aren't intended to be dismantled and I'm sure you aren't intending to. However, unless you intend to grind the cones (both the mid and tweeter are pure beryllium) to a powder and inhale it you won't suffer beryllium poisoning.
    Trying to help as Jamie has done tweeters in the past.....gets you no where in being kind... their again what do i know....

    Main System
    Musical Fidelity E100 Amplifier , Musical Fidelity E50 Tuner , Pioneer PDS 505 Precision CD Player , Pioneer PDS 703 CD Player , Audio Note ANJ/D Speakers Cables Van Del Hul Speaker Cables , Linn Interconnects , Cable Talk , Cambridge Yellow Pacific ,
    Vinyl -
    Rega Planer 2 with Rega Britain Green 250 Tonearm & Upgraded Van Den Hul Oil Bearing & Ortofon Super OM-10

    Second System:
    Technics - SU-C909U Pre-Amplifier & SE-A909S Power Amplifier & Technics ST-GT 1000 Tuner & Pioneer PDS 505 Precision player & Thorens TD-125 MK1 Turntable & SME 3009 Series 1 & Shure V15 Type II Cartridge & SME 2000 Plinth & Celestion A compact Speakers , Monster Speaker Cable , Cambridge Audio Atlantic Yellow Interconnects.

    Spare Kit
    Quad 33/303 , Creek 6060 , NAD 3020 Original , Cambridge P40 , Linn LK85 Power Amplifier , Luxman 507X , Pioneer SA 6300 , Linn Tukan , Sony ES 308 , Pioneer F-676 , Ariston RD40/80's Yamaha CR 820 , Sony TA 88 , Tannoy 615 MK2's.

  5. #5
    Join Date: Jan 2009

    Location: Sheffield - UK

    Posts: 5,799
    I'm Mark.

    Default Yamaha ns1000m

    Sorry, you mean you were saving him from potentially being poisoned? Luckily, unless he is planning on eating any of the beryllium domes or grinding them up and inhaling them then he will be OK (from poisoning at least) - there's no beryllium dust/gas etc in them waiting to be released.

    If any of the drive units don't work I would recommend you claim a refund as replacement units are expensive and repair is, at best, a delicate procedure (if it can be done at all).

    100% Analogue

  6. #6
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: Southall, West London

    Posts: 29,538
    I'm Geoff.

    Default

    Metallic Beryllium is perfectly safe when used in speaker diaphrams.
    Mr. Tact!

    Main system: MMs/ADCs/Low output MC's/One rare Japanese SUT/One scarce British phono stage/various tonearms/hefty Japanese DD TT and hefty Japanese BD TT and small British BD TT. 4 CD players/2 jitter buster/2 DACs/Valve buffer. TVC stepped attenuator or valve pre-amp or solid state pre-amp. Current dumping power-amp or either of two Class A SS power-amp or Class A EL34 valve monos or big Japanese (part Class A) integrated. Big dual concentric speakers/Smaller dual concentric speakers/Two way British compacts and full range speakers, amongst others. And too much more to list!

  7. #7
    Join Date: Sep 2009

    Location: Bournemouth

    Posts: 4,091
    I'm Dan.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by YNWaN View Post
    Sorry, you mean you were saving him from potentially being poisoned? Luckily, unless he is planning on eating any of the beryllium domes or grinding them up and inhaling them then he will be OK (from poisoning at least) - there's no beryllium dust/gas etc in them waiting to be released.

    If any of the drive units don't work I would recommend you claim a refund as replacement units are expensive and repair is, at best, a delicate procedure (if it can be done at all).
    Yes this.....I really dont know that much about these hence was trying to help encase...They were bought at auction so the chances of seeing the 500 again a slim....I cant see any reason why the wouldn't work the pictures look fine...
    Main System
    Musical Fidelity E100 Amplifier , Musical Fidelity E50 Tuner , Pioneer PDS 505 Precision CD Player , Pioneer PDS 703 CD Player , Audio Note ANJ/D Speakers Cables Van Del Hul Speaker Cables , Linn Interconnects , Cable Talk , Cambridge Yellow Pacific ,
    Vinyl -
    Rega Planer 2 with Rega Britain Green 250 Tonearm & Upgraded Van Den Hul Oil Bearing & Ortofon Super OM-10

    Second System:
    Technics - SU-C909U Pre-Amplifier & SE-A909S Power Amplifier & Technics ST-GT 1000 Tuner & Pioneer PDS 505 Precision player & Thorens TD-125 MK1 Turntable & SME 3009 Series 1 & Shure V15 Type II Cartridge & SME 2000 Plinth & Celestion A compact Speakers , Monster Speaker Cable , Cambridge Audio Atlantic Yellow Interconnects.

    Spare Kit
    Quad 33/303 , Creek 6060 , NAD 3020 Original , Cambridge P40 , Linn LK85 Power Amplifier , Luxman 507X , Pioneer SA 6300 , Linn Tukan , Sony ES 308 , Pioneer F-676 , Ariston RD40/80's Yamaha CR 820 , Sony TA 88 , Tannoy 615 MK2's.

  8. #8
    Join Date: Sep 2014

    Location: brighton uk.

    Posts: 2,678
    I'm jamie.

    Default

    cheers all.
    yes bought at auction and was told they were working before being entered for sale,if by chance somethings a miss i will probably break (which is a shame) due to the cost of replacement drivers let alone one turning up in the first place for sale!
    i wait with bated breath
    My System/ Yamaha NS1000M speakers, Townsend Elite rock 2 turntable,,Alphason HR-100S-MCS tonearm,Ortofon Cadenza Black,Decca C4E cartridge ,Sony 700ES Amp,Sony X555ES CD Player, Nakamichi ca5 pre amp ,

  9. #9
    Join Date: Feb 2013

    Location: W Lothian

    Posts: 37,911
    I'm Grant.

    Default

    Might be able to return them if not as stated
    Regards,
    Grant ....

    I've said it before and I'll say it again: democracy simply-doesn't-work
    .... ..... ...... ...... ................... ..... ..... ..... ..... .....
    DENON DV2900 - TWIN PRO MONOBLOCK AMPLIFIERS - XIANG SHENG DAC\PRE\HEADPHONE AMP - AVANTREE OASIS CLASS 1 BLUETOOTH - AUDIO TECHNICA ATH-MSR7 & OPPO PM-3 PLANAR HEADPHONES - WIN10 JRIVER23, SPOTIFY PREMIUM - ECHO DOT - SMSL M6 MINIDAC - FULL RANGE TWIN TELEFUNKEN's - Q ACOUSTIC BT3 actives - CANTON SUB - MAINS REGENERATED AND FILTERED.

  10. #10
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: Staffordshire, England

    Posts: 18,137
    I'm Martin.

    Default

    No, because they were bought at auction, that doesn't apply.
    Martin



    Current Lash Up:

    Sony X505ES CD Player * NVA P90SA passive pre / NVA A30 Power amp * JM Lab Electra 926 loudspeakers *



    "I hate to advocate drugs, alcohol, violence, or insanity to anyone, but they've always worked for me." - Hunter S Thompson

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