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Thread: White lettering on black front panel - suggestions

  1. #11
    Join Date: Mar 2014

    Location: Wiltshire

    Posts: 56
    I'm Al.

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    Sorry - Double posted.

  2. #12
    Join Date: Jan 2009

    Location: Sheffield - UK

    Posts: 5,822
    I'm Mark.

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    I've done sprayed logos before - you can get the paint off with cellulose thinners easily enough.

    100% Analogue

  3. #13
    Join Date: Mar 2014

    Location: Wiltshire

    Posts: 56
    I'm Al.

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    Good to know.

  4. #14
    Join Date: Jan 2013

    Location: Durham - UK

    Posts: 1,362
    I'm Ken.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dunluce978 View Post
    Building a DAC and have a Modushop case to house it, the front panel is a 10 mm Aluminium panel anodised black. I'm just wanting to add the DAC name (DDDAC) in about 5mm high letters so any suggestions of how to do that without having to send it to an engraver are appreciated.

    Letraset etc. are probably a non starter unless they can be applied without showing the clear border that you can usually see around the letters.

    Sorry I bought black instead of the Aluminium colour, would have been easier
    Genuine Letraset transfer lettering does not have any kind of border. I often use it, though getting harder to find. If you over coat it with Acrylic laquer (build up light coats) either satin or gloss it encapsulates the lettering so it can't be scratched off. You could also screen print the lettering, though if you are not experienced at this, the learning process and cost for a one off is prohibitive.
    Ken

    http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/
    DIY Technics/ProJect based Turntable + Terminator linear tracker + Ortofon MC20 Supreme / Pro-Ject Phono box & Pre Box RS / KMTech Active X-Over / Nakamichi AVP1 Power / DIY Sealed Three Way Speakers / Stello CDT100 Transport / DAC Magic.

  5. #15
    Join Date: Mar 2014

    Location: Wiltshire

    Posts: 56
    I'm Al.

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    @Qwin,

    I'll check out the Letraset. I used it years ago for a few small projects and it was good, so worth a shot maybe.

  6. #16
    Join Date: Jan 2013

    Location: Durham - UK

    Posts: 1,362
    I'm Ken.

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    It's getting harder to find Letraset, the last I got off ebay was passed its shelf life and wouldn't stick, cracked and broke up when I tried to apply it.
    WHSmith used to keep some basic fonts in Black, white and a couple of Gold and Silver, I've used these ok.

    If you follow the link on my signature and go to my Battery Powered Phono stage project, that's letraset under acrylic lacquer on the front panel.
    Ken

    http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/
    DIY Technics/ProJect based Turntable + Terminator linear tracker + Ortofon MC20 Supreme / Pro-Ject Phono box & Pre Box RS / KMTech Active X-Over / Nakamichi AVP1 Power / DIY Sealed Three Way Speakers / Stello CDT100 Transport / DAC Magic.

  7. #17
    Join Date: Mar 2014

    Location: Wiltshire

    Posts: 56
    I'm Al.

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    The lettering on your project looks great. As you say it will be hard to get the genuine Letraset in good condition now.

  8. #18
    Join Date: Apr 2015

    Location: Central Virginia

    Posts: 659
    I'm Russell.

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    I've got an alpha-numeric punch set. Probably too ugly for your front labeling project, but I find it great for making serial numbers or marking "in" and "out" on rear jacks. I've even smeared paint into the recess for visibility. Good for secondary markings.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  9. #19
    Join Date: Jan 2013

    Location: Durham - UK

    Posts: 1,362
    I'm Ken.

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    Great tip AlphaGT!

    I have a set of those punches, would work well for rear panel.
    Like the idea of the paint fill.
    Ken

    http://www.jkwynn.co.uk/
    DIY Technics/ProJect based Turntable + Terminator linear tracker + Ortofon MC20 Supreme / Pro-Ject Phono box & Pre Box RS / KMTech Active X-Over / Nakamichi AVP1 Power / DIY Sealed Three Way Speakers / Stello CDT100 Transport / DAC Magic.

  10. #20
    Join Date: Apr 2015

    Location: Central Virginia

    Posts: 659
    I'm Russell.

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    I just transferred the serial number of a guitar to the back of the headstock, small 1/8 punch size. I taped a ruler to the surface and used it to keep it straight, and square, tapped each number with the same force, and then rubbed in with a Sharpie marker in black, on white maple. Then wiped it with alcohol on a kitchen towel, and it looks beautiful! Looks twice as good as the factory serial numbers that were a decal that I sanded off.

    Where I used to work, we had small aluminum plates with peel and stick adhesive on the back, really sticky! And it as the company name, and a blank for serial number. I had a jig that I would place the card, and stamp the serial number on. Then peel and stick to the rear of our products. They looked very respectable at the time, I thought. Perhaps some thin aluminum sheet and contact cement could pull the same trick? If the steel were too thick to get a legible stamp into?


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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