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Thread: Passive pre recommendations & advice on pots, etc

  1. #11
    Join Date: Dec 2015

    Location: Alicante. Spain.

    Posts: 1,885
    I'm Adrian.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RothwellAudio View Post
    It sounds to me that the Tisbury has everything you want except remote control. Apart from remote control, what are you looking for in the "upgrade"? It's perfectly possible to make passives much more expensive than the Tisbury but I'm not convinced there's much advantage to it. Point-to-point wiring for example can be simply a labour-intensive (and therefore expensive) waste of time imho.
    You're right Dave - it depends what the OP wants. Better sound? Convenience?
    Technics SP10 mk2
    Jan Allaerts MC 1 Boron mk1 cart
    Miyajima Shilabe cart
    Hashimoto HM-X SUT
    Siggwan (gimballed not unipivot) Cocobola 12"
    Aurorasound Vida LCR Phonostage
    The Truth linestage
    Dave Slagle Autoformer Volume Controller
    Cary 805c SET amps
    Audio Note ANe-SPX speakers
    Townshend Isolda speaker cables
    Cardas Golden Presence interconnects

  2. #12
    Join Date: Dec 2015

    Location: Alicante. Spain.

    Posts: 1,885
    I'm Adrian.

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    According to the original post priority is SQ - in which case I'd suggest Slagle or Truth. But that's only my opinion.
    Technics SP10 mk2
    Jan Allaerts MC 1 Boron mk1 cart
    Miyajima Shilabe cart
    Hashimoto HM-X SUT
    Siggwan (gimballed not unipivot) Cocobola 12"
    Aurorasound Vida LCR Phonostage
    The Truth linestage
    Dave Slagle Autoformer Volume Controller
    Cary 805c SET amps
    Audio Note ANe-SPX speakers
    Townshend Isolda speaker cables
    Cardas Golden Presence interconnects

  3. #13
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: Staffordshire, England

    Posts: 37,886
    I'm Martin.

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    I found quite a significant difference between the Tisbury and other, more expensive passives.
    Current Lash Up:

    TEAC VRDS 701T > Sony TAE1000ESD > Krell KSA50S > JM Labs Focal Electra 926.

  4. #14
    Join Date: Dec 2015

    Location: Alicante. Spain.

    Posts: 1,885
    I'm Adrian.

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    +1
    Technics SP10 mk2
    Jan Allaerts MC 1 Boron mk1 cart
    Miyajima Shilabe cart
    Hashimoto HM-X SUT
    Siggwan (gimballed not unipivot) Cocobola 12"
    Aurorasound Vida LCR Phonostage
    The Truth linestage
    Dave Slagle Autoformer Volume Controller
    Cary 805c SET amps
    Audio Note ANe-SPX speakers
    Townshend Isolda speaker cables
    Cardas Golden Presence interconnects

  5. #15
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: NE England

    Posts: 4,173
    I'm Jez.

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    It's not a good idea to have more than one output with a passive.
    Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)

    Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
    ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
    Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
    Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco

  6. #16
    Join Date: Aug 2009

    Location: Staffordshire, England

    Posts: 37,886
    I'm Martin.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Arkless Electronics View Post
    It's not a good idea to have more than one output with a passive.
    go on...
    Current Lash Up:

    TEAC VRDS 701T > Sony TAE1000ESD > Krell KSA50S > JM Labs Focal Electra 926.

  7. #17
    RothwellAudio Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by farflungstar View Post
    Yes it plugs into the wall - but it adds no gain - the buffers require power but the signal isn't boosted in any way.
    Having unity gain doesn't make it passive - that isn't what passive means.

  8. #18
    RothwellAudio Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by Macca View Post
    go on...
    If you have two outputs feeding two devices the two input impedances will be in parallel and the combination may well be on the low side.

  9. #19
    Join Date: Oct 2012

    Location: NE England

    Posts: 4,173
    I'm Jez.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Macca View Post
    go on...
    I knew you would ask.... The worst case generally CAN be when one item is switched off. If you have a passive pre (this applies to all pres really but passives will be vastly more effected, some valve gear second worse here) driving both your power amp and a headphone amp (or anything else) then the two amps being driven "see" each others inputs. Sometimes when gear is switched off its input impedance can be highly non linear and can cause distortion which you hear via the amp that is switched on. An AOS member had just such an issue a couple of weeks ago I recall. Even much less serious scenarios are highly likely to degrade SQ. Things connected to "Tape out" can have a similar effect BTW.

    Without analysing specific makes and models of kit and having access to their circuit diagrams etc it's impossible to say precisely what kit will be adversely effected etc.

    To climb on to my soapbox, it's one of the MANY things in audio that are important but virtually ignored by/not known to audiophiles... whilst meanwhile they obsess about stuff so unimportant it probably makes no difference....
    Arkless Electronics-Engineered to be better. Tel. 01670 530674 (after 1pm)

    Modded Thorens TD150, Audio Technica AT-1005 MkII, Technics EPC-300MC, Arkless Hybrid MC phono stage, Arkless passive pre, Arkless 50WPC Class A SS power amp, (or) Arkless modded Leak Stereo 20, Modded Kef Reference 105/3's
    ReVox PR99, Studer B62, Ferrograph Series 7, Tandberg TCD440, Hitachi FT-5500MkI, also FT-5500MkII
    Digital: Yamaha CDR-HD1500 (Digital Swiss army knife-CD recorder, player, hard drive, DAC and ADC in one), PC files via 24/96 sound card and SPDIF, modded Philips CD850, modded Philips CD104, modded DPA Little Bit DAC. Sennheiser HD580 cans with Arkless Headphone amp.
    Cables- free interconnects that come with CD players, mains leads from B&Q, dead kettles etc, extension leads from Tesco

  10. #20
    Join Date: Aug 2011

    Location: Coventry, England UK

    Posts: 534
    I'm Simon.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RothwellAudio View Post
    It sounds to me that the Tisbury has everything you want except remote control. Apart from remote control, what are you looking for in the "upgrade"? It's perfectly possible to make passives much more expensive than the Tisbury but I'm not convinced there's much advantage to it. Point-to-point wiring for example can be simply a labour-intensive (and therefore expensive) waste of time imho.
    I like the Tisbury but I ideally need more control of volume (more steps) because while I can generally find a good volume without problem at normal/louder levels it can be difficult at lower volumes to get what I need (due to thin walls and neighbours). One setting is too low but then the next has a bigger volume jump than I'd like.

    Also I've read that while the Tisbury is great and super good value for money, I see many comment that it's easily beatable for not too much more money.


    Quote Originally Posted by Arkless Electronics View Post
    I knew you would ask.... The worst case generally CAN be when one item is switched off. If you have a passive pre (this applies to all pres really but passives will be vastly more effected, some valve gear second worse here) driving both your power amp and a headphone amp (or anything else) then the two amps being driven "see" each others inputs. Sometimes when gear is switched off its input impedance can be highly non linear and can cause distortion which you hear via the amp that is switched on. An AOS member had just such an issue a couple of weeks ago I recall. Even much less serious scenarios are highly likely to degrade SQ. Things connected to "Tape out" can have a similar effect BTW.

    Without analysing specific makes and models of kit and having access to their circuit diagrams etc it's impossible to say precisely what kit will be adversely effected etc.

    To climb on to my soapbox, it's one of the MANY things in audio that are important but virtually ignored by/not known to audiophiles... whilst meanwhile they obsess about stuff so unimportant it probably makes no difference....
    That was me also. Seems this could be trickier to sort out than I initially thought... I really don't want to be plugging the headphone amp in/out all the time. Even if I had 2 passives, 1 for amp and 1 for headphone amp I'd still have the problem of connecting up both outputs on my DAC into the passives and having the distortion problem I had in the other thread. So even using a tape out no good either...?

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